Most Expensive Pad Slap I've Done Yet!

[gathermewool]

That's crazy! I've only ever had to replace a caliper on my old '97 LGT that froze up and an '04 Civic for the same reason. Both resulted in a worn pad VERY quickly, but neither blew out a bearing seal! Holy moly!

'08 STI: sold @ 60k miles with OEM brakes with some meat left on them. I braked harder in that car than usual and was very surprised how healthy the pads looked each time I lubed them.

'15 Legacy: I'm still on OEM pads/rotors with 57k miles.

'14 FXT: just replaced pads/rotors (all around) @ 73140 miles. The caliper piston moved in and out like butter.

 

[Tundragod]

I try to clamp the vise grip onto a suspension bolt. It takes some fiddling but you will eventually get it.
Ideally, .001” or less. But definitely no more than .002”.

Thanks, I'm on to my next brake job, 2012 Highlander. Front pads had about 1/8" on the inside and about 1/4" outside. Caliper bolts rusted in which may have caused the uneven wear. I put new pads (toyota) on without rotors turned . Got slight pulsation so I took the rotors in to see if Orielly can turn them. He recommended to get new rotors since the thickness will be on the borderline once turned. 138K miles on the car. Not sure if the rotors had been turned before or not. I own it for 2 yrs and 16k miles. Contemplating on getting Toyota rotors but ended up buying Centric Parts 120.44158 Premium instead. They are about the same price. I'll try the dial indicator again on the new rotors.

 

[WyrTwister]

Thank God I do not live in the rust / salt belt !

In 50 years , I could count on one hand the number of drums / rotors I have had to replace . and probably have one or two fingers not used .

As far as pads / shoes , I buy lifetime guaranteed items locally and never have to buy them again for that vehicle .

Have never purchased brake hardware , unless I lost , broke or bent something .

By the way , I do not like working on drum brakes .

 

[The Critic]

Thanks, I'm on to my next brake job, 2012 Highlander. Front pads had about 1/8" on the inside and about 1/4" outside. Caliper bolts rusted in which may have caused the uneven wear. I put new pads (toyota) on without rotors turned . Got slight pulsation so I took the rotors in to see if Orielly can turn them. He recommended to get new rotors since the thickness will be on the borderline once turned. 138K miles on the car. Not sure if the rotors had been turned before or not. I own it for 2 yrs and 16k miles. Contemplating on getting Toyota rotors but ended up buying Centric Parts 120.44158 Premium instead. They are about the same price. I'll try the dial indicator again on the new rotors.

On those vehicles, I clamp the vise grip onto a strut-to-knuckle bolt. Make a somewhat tight "u" with the arm. Configure the length and the position of the arm, then put the dial indicator through the hole on the arm. Tighten the arm first, then secure the dial indicator. The dial indicator should be positioned a few millimeters from the outer edge of the rotor.

Make sure you clean the hub flange real well using the 3M roloc tool or something similar, especially around the center ring area. Use a file/brush if needed. If runout doesn't meet spec, rotate the rotor position 180 deg and re-test. Or try a different rotor.

edit: make sure the bushing on the slide pin is not swollen. If this bushing is swollen it will cause unusual pad wear.

 

[paqza]

I know the feeling. Just did front and rear pads and rotors on a TL that's seen 13 Central/Western NY winters. Had a heck of a time getting the old rotors off. The parking brake assembly also looked terrible. I'll need to go back in when I have time and replace all the parking brake hardware; at the moment, the e-brake lever is adornment.