More moving adventures - feather light super well built fender

A reply in the thread suggested a horse trailer may not be a match as a cargo trailer. That in fact may be the case with many horse trailers, I have no idea as this is the only horse trailer I have owned.

I have owned numerous trailers, and currently own three other enclosed trailers not included this featherlight horse trailers. All my trailers were built with many factory options. Yet none of the trailers I own can come close to this horse trailer for hauling cargo .

The build quality of this featherlight is unbelievable. I am not sure anyone builds a trailer if this quality today. The rear and side ramp is a awesome feature for loading and unloading cargo. The cargo area is very modular, all the pieces can come out in seconds. Super strong tie down points on the walls. I could go on and on.

Wife has been on me to sell some trucks and trailers. This trailer was first on my list to sell. After the trouble with the fenders, and doing a inspection, there is no way I can small this trailer. Not many of this model made, and a trailer if this quality new would be well above $35k USD today. So I will be keeping this trailer, it can do so many things. And the low ramps sure make loading easy.

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^^^ @GON pulls up looking like that.

Neighbors: "there goes the neighborhood."

:D

Just kidding! I have the same effect on people, which is why I live on 35 acres ;)
Maybe that is why after being outside and just finished unloading three trailers, not a single person has so much as waived or said hello. Of course, having a F350 with a trailer attached likely doesn't add to the neighborhood. Maybe the S class balances things???PXL_20240908_214135526.webpPXL_20240908_214156091.webp
 
What year is the trailer? Trucks are taller these days, so the gooseneck hitch is not what they were in the earlier 00's.
 
Plenty of trailers built like tanks if you ever walked through where the cowboys park at a PCRA rodeo. Those truck and trailer rigs get tens of thousands of miles yearly put on them.
 
I regularly feel the hubs when stopping for gas. I feel them with the back of my hand as I was taught (because it's theoretically easier to pull away quickly if necessary)

This is also how I personally determined the absolute minimal preload is ideal. I seat the bearings by snugging the nut gutentight while spinning, then back out and snug again finger tight. I mount the wheel so I have a larger lever to feel the clunk/clunk, and if I have to choose between a small clunk or snugging the nut, I opt for the looser option.

In doing so all hubs stay cool to the touch and I've never had a bearing failure. Castle nuts that are tightened with more than fingers result in warm or hot hubs. The temps are likely well within spec for bearings but I don't like it. That's just me, and I know from results it works for me.

An IR Temperature gun is $20.00 from many sources. You can't tell the temperature differences between the hubs facing the sun and the hubs on the other side with your hand.
 
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