The drive is a butchered up 2000 lb boat winch, the black parts and caster plates are water jet cut A36, the round parts are DOM tube of various sizes.
Faultless casters, boat winch and bronze bushings are off the shelf of coarse.
Nice work. "Designed and built in USA with some parts from somewhere else". You probably couldn't buy the worm drive parts seperately for less than the winch.
Take it the stylized X on the endcaps is your logo? Got a website?
Nice work! I am learning to weld. Your post has inspired me to make an engine stand and a hoist. The hoist is going to be tougher, since I need to remove a small block Ford V8 from a boat.
Yeah you are correct and I did ruin my hobby once for about a year. I had the only high accuracy Briggs and Stratton valve spring tester on the market. 40-60 hr. weeks at my normal job and another 40-60 at home building and shipping. I sold 288 testers and was actually happy when the big boys knocked it off.
It was tremendous $ but man I didn't know how I hate repetitive work.
That won't happen again.
You know, I never thought of that until now... Im going to build an aluminum 5.3 soon and I have an old school Cornwell engine stand. Its currently packed away but does it only have four bolts?
Should you not use that for an LS?
NY I would not be concerned about using a 4 bolt stand at all. Been doing 4 bolt big and small blocks for many years without problem. Just make sure your bolts are plenty long enough to get good thread engagement.
This may be a little ocd but when I leave a motor on a stand for any length of time for storage I force a 2x4 between the front pan lip and the stand to take some weight off of the bell housing bolts. Not sure that it's needed but can't hurt.