More monograde talk here
Posted courtesy of @53' Stude
bobistheoilguy.com
To me the thing to look for in a monograde is the Viscosity Index (VI), it should be over 100, and the higher it is the more certain you can be that you have a Group II monograde, which is what you want (or the very rare PAO monograde).
Then you want ZDDP (zinc) as an anti-wear & antioxidant agent. Plus a decent TBN (total base number) via a Ca / Mg detergent package, to neutralise acid buildup. Also dispersants to handle soot etc.
Right now I'm running a SAE30 monograde with a VI = 113 in my car. That VI means Group-II, so it's probably as oxidaivly stable as any other regular Group-II multigrades (like a regular 10W30), assuming they used a decent polymer VII (viscosity index improver) in the multigrade.
You original question may be referring to the bad old days of having a 10W40 made on a thin base oil then all jacked up on plastic VII, which sludged a lot of cars engines ages ago. Those days are over when they introduced minimum HTHS requirements for viscosity grades in J300.