I am not sure but Phillips seems confident there Turbo oil with Moly is up to the task. Would not want to see burnt moly though.
Where is a moly guru when we need one ?
[ November 24, 2002, 09:52 PM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
The same thing that happens with any other rotating or rubbing surface. If the hydrodynamic film breaks, the moly acts as a back-up AW/EP additive to prevent catastrophic failure.
Since the oil temps in the turbo are usually higher, I would think the moly would start forming an organometallic surface film long before any hydrodynamic film rupture.
[ November 26, 2002, 10:27 AM: Message edited by: MolaKule ]
I have done the same thing with my '86 Burb. I run Amsoil 10W30 ATM and use the SDF24 Long Version with the following:
1. 1 quart of Schaeffer's #703 10W30
2. 250 mL of Schaeffer's #132.
Will have an analysis later this year or early next year since we have put about 4k miles on it.
I'm not a fan of driveway blending but Red Line has a whopping 600ppms of soluble moly in their formula. If you are looking for a concentrated form of the stuff, I think you will be hard pressed to find a better source.
--- Bror Jace
For sure, it has moly out the ying-yang.
I was using the 132 for a few of the other additives contained therein.
As with any blending or experimetation I agree. Without proper research and used oil analysis, it is not a good idea to "backyard" blend.
600 ppm sounds like a bit much....and why spend out the yangse for Redline, when I can spend out the yangse for Amsoil!
I was thinking in the 150 ppm range...
BTW I agree with the blending comments. I would NEVER tell a customer to do such a thing. Sometimes I need to satisfy my wild hair....ocaisionally I ruin something...you can ask my wife