Moderately-Hard Engine Break-in.

Messages
3,833
Location
NEPA
I've been hitting the throttle, and letting it get up to 3000 and even 4000rpm. I still have only 200 miles on it and the manual says to take it easy up to 600 miles. I know they can't say to drive it hard in the manual because people would take it too far. Am I doing it right, or nothing wrong by doing a moderately-hard break-in? Deep throttle on occasion. A good deal of crusing and a few higher revs, not too far yet. Is a harder break-in better? Is the manual misleading? I'm pushing the Honda K-series up to 75%-85% of power occasionally without excess revving. It's getting smoother with a lil ARX and introducing some super gas. Any input on this subject?
 
Messages
335
Location
Colorado
My ownersmanual on my new vehicle says to floor the throttle occasionally for first 1000 miles but only on the highway and not from a stop.
 
Messages
491
Location
Arlington, TX
I would do hard good throttles and let it decel on its own, but only after the engine is warmed up enough = maybe after 15 minutes or so of starting up a cold engine. For me, id push the throttle when going up hills to get the 'loading' and let go of the throttle when going downhill for the lubrication part. During the first 600 months, i took it to 5k rpm going up hill. Just whatever you do, do NOT go past redline. I see most of the breakin and proper seating can mostly be done between 2k-4k rpms.
 
Messages
444
Location
Nevada
Honda goldwing motorcycles are run through every gear to redline on a dyno before they leave the factory. I dont think what you are doing will cause any harm.
 

vad

Messages
1,856
Location
So Cal
WOT on the freeway on-ramps would be perfect. Just floor it as soon as you reach 2000 rpm on a warmed up engine and then hold it all the way to redline in each gear.
 
I know that every engine I have rebuilt and/or installed get ran hard before it leaves my hands. I will start the engine to check for leaks and to make sure there is oil pressure for five minutes. I then shut it down. I check all fluids and up close again for any leaks. If all is good then I start it up. I let the oil pressure get up. I then run it up to 2K for twenty minutes. This is for a proper cam break-in. Also I use Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40 and a bottle of cam break-in additive as the first fill of oil. After that run I drop the oil. I will fill the crank with usually Mobil Delvac 1300 Super 15W-40, unless it will be below 10-15 degrees. I will take it out to an empty lot or a back road somewhere and by then it is warmed up. I will run the engine up to 500-700 shy of red line and compression brake to a creep. I will do this atleast 15-25 times. This is to load and seat the rings. I will then have it run medium hard for a few hundred mile and I have them change the oil and it good to go. I have never had or heard of a problem with this process. Hope this helps.
 
Messages
2,387
Location
Chicago area
It's hard to break in a factory engine wrong. They have already beeen run hard. Bearings never touch, and the rings seat very quickly. There is some minor cam/lifter polishing, and a little ring /bore mating to be accomplished. The brakes and drivetrain are much more of a concern with break in. You won't hurt your engine with full throttle, but I'd keep it from redline until 1000 miles. Full throttle mid range exerts maximum pressure of the rings to bore, and will help finish any seating.
 
Messages
2,338
Location
Charlotte Metro area
You've got more to worry about seasoning your brake pads/rotors easily. I always liked the high vacuum decelleration theory after reaching a high rpm. I have a REALLY steep hill nearby that I used to "break in" a motorcycle and two cars. I've been doing it similar to this for 3 decades now. NEVER had an engine problem. Never even have had to open an engine on a car I bought new. Never had a car I bought new consume significant amounts of oil. HOWEVER, I've never kept a vehicle longer than 150000 miles...that's long enough for me.
 

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Messages
3,833
Location
NEPA
I think the keyword is "moderately" hard. Thanks. I was banging on it yesterday and wanted to hear if that was ok. I did a bit of downshifting too.
 
Messages
651
Location
Punxsutawney, PA.
I drive them the same during the break in as I do normally. The only difference is that I change the oil and filter on a new engine anywhere from 500 to 1,000 miles.
 

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Messages
3,833
Location
NEPA
Normal driving is the best advice except- excess reving and with owners who baby their car, not enough deep throttle. My manual specificly advises AGAINST changing the Factory-Fill before regular service interval. I will do it at 2000mi, 5000mi and 10,000mi. 2k, 3k and 5k intervals. After that, timed intervals wil be the norm.
 
Messages
2,338
Location
Charlotte Metro area
Just got a new Forester. On it's first drive home (8 miles on the odometer), it saw 70 mph, 4000 rpms, and I downshifted and coasted down a steep hill at 3500 rpms. It now has about 60 miles on it, and I consider the rings "set". We'll see if it burns any oil or not. Basically, from here on out, I'll tell my wife to drive it like she usually does, which isn't hard. Every once in a while I'll get it out and run it hard(er) for her. Bet it will be just fine!
 

Al

Messages
19,251
Location
Elizabethtown, Pa
Personally, I always break in my cars very easily. I just like to vary rpms as much as possible and do a lot of coast downs from say 60 mph to 40 mph to get more oil up thru the rings. Call me a sucker, but I'll go by the manual. [Smile]
 

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Messages
3,833
Location
NEPA
I'm happy that I used ARX in it. It seems ARX will provide some EP, but also isolate break-in debris and move them to the filter. My 1st drive was 120mi and I did take it somewhat "easy".
 
Messages
9,448
Location
USA
3000 RPM is nothing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I would not worry about it!! If you were driveing a Peterbuilt and were hitting 3000RPM on each shift on a new engine we would have problems but your Honda will do that all day long even on a new engine!
 

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Messages
3,833
Location
NEPA
5000 rpm today! Smoother and more power all the time. The dealer's complementary tank of Gulf gas did not seem to help out. I filled with Shell 87 + some v-Power today and it made a big difference.
 
Messages
2,338
Location
Charlotte Metro area
Al, the odometer always has at least 3-4-5 miles on it when you get it, right? I'm betting the drivers crank the car up, and push it pretty hard right to the loading dock, staging area, whatever. Don't even let them warm up properly. This happens a few times before it even gets to the dealership. So, it's probably been thrashed around significantly enough to help the rings seat. The rest of break-in is probably mainly cam lobe polishing, etc. I like to get the engine hot by running at highway speeds for a while, varying the speed. By then, the rings should be seated almost all the way. Nothing wrong with going by the manual.
 
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