The 10/30 and the 15/50 Mobil SS is the most stable oil in their SS line up per a Mobil Enginner.
I use the 10/30 but thought possibly a higher grade could be used in summer when over 100F with the a/c on ect so I called them and asked about putting a little 15/50 in during that run. Answer was no problem there,would not have a API oil anylonger and would need to make certain I had mixed to VI I wanted ect ect ect.
Those guys and gals at Mobil are much friendlier these days than in the past imo,,if your out there thanks!
The oil is still a 30 wt. 30 wt starts at 9.3 and ends at 12.49 . The 10/30 is 9.8 so in your new Elantra I see no problems with it thinning out being a PAO based oil baring any fuel troubles thats not likely to happen. Yep, it is on the thin side of a 30 wt but meets the Energy Conserving Requirements that 40wts will not and if you use good change intervals that oil will take you far imo. Save the thicker VI for when the engine wears a little more about 150k or so
Edit: How many miles did you run the factor oil before change over just out of curiosity?
[ November 10, 2002, 10:09 AM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
I had factory oil in it for 2500 before 1st change. I had it changed at the dealer ( it was free, only reason) with dealer oil (I assume castrol, as that is what was on the change sticker) I changed again at 5K, when I switched to M1. Wanted to get at 5K intervals from There...
Yeah thats pretty much all I am looking for out of the oil is 5-6 k intervals with our 2002 car. It it will run from April to October and handle summer temps I can change oil twice a year and stay within warranty guidelines. After next summers analysis I will know if I need to add a little 15/50 next year.Hoping not.
[ November 10, 2002, 11:29 AM: Message edited by: dragboat ]
All the M1s tend to be on the low side of their ranges, so you'll either be right near the low end with the 30wt or just over the top end with the 40wt. As Dragboat implied, the 0W-40 probably won't be as stable as the 10W-30, but in a new engine for only 5k mi intervals, you might not even notice. (I'll be switching from 10W-30 to the 0W-40 for 10k intervals in my 4cyl turbo, so I guess I'll find out!) I'm beginning to think this might be the perfect "year-round" oil for me. As an added CAFE bonus, Mobil recently redid their spec sheets AGAIN (no new rev date this time) to include the GF-3 energy-conserving spec on the 0W-40.
I guess when the 5K interval rolls around on the Wife's and my vehicles, I will find out where to get an analysis kit and do them both. we both drive about the same amount of miles, and both oils will be changed at 5K intervals. Hers is a V-6 2.7L and mine is a I4 2.0L . This is our first use of Mobile one after 5k's of mileage.
I'm the one that's been saying M1 xW30 is almost 20wt, and it's true. HOWEVER, according to the ACEA A5 spec, it will not thin to 20wt, meaning it won't thin hardly any. That's good.
M1 TriSyn 0W40 was on the light end of 40wt, but their SS 0W40 is right in the same range as the rest of the 5W40 and 10W40: 14.4 [email protected]
You asked about the what current spec would be most like the old 10W30. I have no data but I suspect that before any "Energy Conserving" tests were considered, most 10W30 were probably around [email protected] out of the bottle. Right where Pennzoil High Mileage, Quaker State High Mileage, and Shell Rotella T 10W30 are now. Heck, even the Castrol GTX ISAC GF2 10W30 was 11.3 [email protected] and it did include an economy test. In a synthetic, AMSOIL SAE 5W30 is right there at 11.7 [email protected] If I could get AMSOIL otc that's what I'd use.
If it's 10W30, it's API SL, and it's NOT ILSAC GF3, and no API STARBURST symbol, then it may be what you're looking for. Check the specs to be sure.