Mobil1 in a motorcycle

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Kind of late to ask now. But I’ve had my Yamaha raptor 700 for some time now (12 years) and I’ve used almost nothing but mobile 1 10w30. Is it true that a motor oil for cars can damage a motorcycle engine? Clutch, gears etc...
 
I would think a machine like that would use a 10w-40 or 50, clearly 12 years of 10w-30 won't kill it.

I always thought motorcycle oil had an additive to aide the clutch and gears. Maybe consider yourself lucky
 
Originally Posted By: RodneyM
Kind of late to ask now. But I’ve had my Yamaha raptor 700 for some time now (12 years) and I’ve used almost nothing but mobile 1 10w30. Is it true that a motor oil for cars can damage a motorcycle engine? Clutch, gears etc...


Your Raptor does have a wet clutch in it.

So depending on how you ride, your clutch plates are probably fried/glazed. Any other damage.. hard to know.
 
Originally Posted By: RodneyM
Kind of late to ask now. But I’ve had my Yamaha raptor 700 for some time now (12 years) and I’ve used almost nothing but mobile 1 10w30. Is it true that a motor oil for cars can damage a motorcycle engine? Clutch, gears etc...


LOL in just 13 more days its going to disintegrate. Its going to be bad find a bomb shelter.
 
As I understand it, the potential problem with non-mc oils in a wet clutch is friction modifiers causing clutch slip. It’s rather specific to the oil and mc combination but is usually fully reversible with an oil change,

Clearly if you haven’t had a problem yet, you are unlikely to have one at all.
 
I have been running Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage in my VTX 1300 for the past two years and have not had clutch slippage issues.
 
Originally Posted By: TOMJ
I have been running Mobil 1 10w-40 high mileage in my VTX 1300 for the past two years and have not had clutch slippage issues.

Mobil 1 10w-40 HM is not an energy conserving oil. M1 10w-30 is.
The energy conserving part is the bad part for wet clutches.


If you have not had any problems after 12 years with M1 10w-30, it is not going to suddenly start now, although you could have reduced clutch performance and not know it.
 
Thanks for the replies. Knock on wood i haven’t noticed any clutch slipage but would encourage anyone who has had issues in a bike from using car oil to speak up.
 
Car oil and Bike oil ?

They are both 4 stroke engines - the difference is in the clutch friction modifiers and amount of VM.

Most "bike oil" meets modern API Spark ignition engine specs.

A Decade ago Ive run "bike oil" in cars with BETTER results than "car oil" at the time. But it was GOOD Racing 4T oil back in the real synthetic days.
 
It will be fine and you just need to keep riding and changing oil at proper intervals.
Most motorcycle oil is simply overpriced and may have a slightly different additive package.
My Harley gets Mobil 1 15w50 and has for several years
They same oil goes into my primary chain case as well
 
3 Raptor 660 motors here. Trail motor is a 673, 1 drag motor is an 843 and the other drag motor is a 997. All 3 get RP HPS 5-30. No clutch slip issues but the drag motors have lock-up clutches so they probably don't count so much, trail bike has a normal clutch setup though and no slip issues.

If you mostly ride in the summer I might go to M1 15-50 if I were you, if it is spring and fall riding stick with what you've been running.
 
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
It will be fine and you just need to keep riding and changing oil at proper intervals.
Most motorcycle oil is simply overpriced and may have a slightly different additive package.
My Harley gets Mobil 1 15w50 and has for several years
They same oil goes into my primary chain case as well

Again, Mobil 1 15w-50 is not an energy conserving oil, so is not the same as Mobil 1 10w-30 that is energy conserving and is formulated differently.
There are many that have issues with Mobil 1 10w-30 in wet clutch applications, don't know of any with problems (except for a few outliers) with the Mobil 1 15w-50.
 
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