Mobil1 High Mileage, burning oil faster?

[Matt_V]

I have a 1997 Toyota Rav4 with the 3SFE engine that has about 207k miles. Since I bought it, I was told by the previous owner that it burns a little oil, which is expected for the age and mileage. I also found it was leaking oil at the crank and cam seals, so I went ahead and did a new timing belt/water pump and did all the seals while I was in there.

Since I bought it I did a Kreen treatment and ran it for roughly 1000 miles with great results, oil was pitch black. After that I proceeded to run 2-3 oil changes of the cheapest 5W-30 I could find at about 500 mile intervals.

Now that I'm clean, I did a change to Mobil1 High Mileage 5W-30 with a slightly taller Wix filter which gives me roughly an extra 1/3 quart of capacity.

I have put roughly 200 miles on it, and did a 70 or so mile round trip this past weekend. I've been making an effort to take it on extended highway runs since it mostly sees a city commute of 7 miles total a day.

So to the point, I checked the oil level this morning and it was slightly below the halfway dipstick mark. I topped it off with some more M1H1, but it took roughly 3/4 of a quart to do so. That seems like a lot of oil loss only 200 miles into the OCI. Previous OCI's of conventional oil required a half quart of so every 500-1000 miles.

Should I be worried or keep topping off the M1H1 and let it run it's course? I'm hoping the oil can help curb the burning and I planned on running the OCI to 3,000 miles if I can help it. No smoke on startup or any at all, for that matter. Car runs very strong and is healthy.

I appreciate the advice, thanks BITOG!

 

[aquariuscsm]

Maybe try a fill of M1 10W30HM.

 

[Leonardo629]

If there's no issue with measuring the starting amount of oil, then that's excessive. Most manufacturers allow 1qt/1000mi before deem an engine issue. I'd keep an eye on the oil level again, and you may need to go to a heavier weight like aquariuscsm said or engine rebuild.

 

[69GTX]

If you're in the hotter part of Texas you might try a strong 30 grade or even a light 40 grade oil. With 200K miles there should be some leeway from the original 5w-30 grade. Even trying a different brand of oil could help. You might even get less leakage using a conventional such as PYB, VWB, etc. Have you ruled out the PCV system as a source of leakage? 3/4 qt not going down the tail pipe would have to show up in your engine bay or on the floor.

 

[HerrStig]

Valve guides and seals?

 

[Bgallagher]

Would you consider Pennzoil HM? I had a similar issue with my Equinox and Pennzoil actually made a difference. I also think the car runs nicer with it versus M1HM.

 

[Matt_V]

I actually live in Portland, OR now.

PCV was replaced not too long ago and still has free play. I checked to see if the valve had movement by shaking it.

Maybe the oil level wasn't completely full after the change but I swear I double checked it after running it for 20 seconds and topped off accordingly.

 

[bigt61]

Run your OCI out to 6k miles - unless of course it's drinking too much M1 oil for your wallet. If so, just top off with cheap SuperTech dino - 10W-30,40 until the 6k. Then try switching over to Maxlife Blend as a last resort. If that stuff doesn't slow it down, you have a problem.

 

[Matt_V]

Also forgot to note that there is no visible oil stains under my car when left overnight.

I have also run Rotella T6 for a quick OCI in my car with little oil burning. I may switch to that after this OCI.

 

[Roadkingnc]

I would try an oem valve if you have an aftermarket one in there

 

[Rolla07]

Your filter likely took some time and absorbed a bit of oil and on the first fill of a new oil it can use some until it gets used to the oil. I would keep topping it off with the exact same oil and see if it burns less. I would just get a 5 qt jug and keep topping it off. Give the oil time before you jump to a conclusion.

 

[Rolla07]

Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
I would try an oem valve if you have an aftermarket one in there


+1

 

[Matt_V]

Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
I would try an oem valve if you have an aftermarket one in there


I used an OEM valve and have another on backup just in case. For some reason I was paranoid that the Kreen cleaning may have caused it to gunk prematurely.

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Your filter likely took some time and absorbed a bit of oil and on the first fill of a new oil it can use some until it gets used to the oil. I would keep topping it off with the exact same oil and see if it burns less. I would just get a 5 qt jug and keep topping it off. Give the oil time before you jump to a conclusion.


That's what I shall do. I have a feeling it will tapper off once I get 1000+ miles on it. I'm hopeful, at least.

 

[quint]

I could be wrong but I believe on this model engine the valve seals are usually the culprit if it starts burning oil.

 

[LeakySeals]

Every Toyota I have owned or worked on burns a fair amount oil. I was shocked to find my dad's 2013 Camry 2.5l with only 20,000 miles had consumed a quart of oil in 3k miles. With the new 10k OCI factory spec I suspect engine failures down the road.

Reading your post you never went beyond 500 miles with an oil change since you owned it? Because you were cleaning it up. Then you went extended with the M1 HM. And now you noticed the consumption. I am a long time user of m1 hm and I can tell you it burns less than other synthetic oils. But depending on your problem you will burn more because it's a synthetic and it flows better. Have somebody start that vehicle in the morning and look for a puff of blue smoke you will know if it's the valve seals. Could be Blocked oil return piston holes. Also clean out the PVC system really good and replace the pcv valve with a dealer valve. M1 HM is a fantastic cleaning oil. But I doubt it can unblock those holes. Need to drill them out with a drill. It turns to harden carbon and there is no flow. I don't think it's the rings I just don't think the rings can wipe the oil away. Nowhere for the oil to go so you just burn it. The high mileage additives are really only good for rubber components. That would be the valve seals rear main oil pan gasket. Takes about 10k miles for it to work if it's going to. Two oil changes. That will also give you enough time to get a new glaze between the piston rings and the cylinder. Sometimes switching oil brands you will experience some additional consumption for that reason.

 

[Matt_V]

I will keep the thread updated. So far since the top off the oil dipstick level hasn't budged. I believe it took some cycles to absorb the new oil and now it's leveled off.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Something positive I noticed about M1 HM,I did back to back uoa's with a boutique synth 20W50 and M1 HM 10W40. The 20W50 sheared into a 10W40,while the M1 HM stayed within Mobil's listed 10W40 viscosity specs. In other words it didn't shear at all (Blackstone pointed this out to me).