Mobil1 --> Havoline Dino

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Prior to finding this fourm and until today, I have been religiously using synthetics in my car like Mobil1, PP, and Synpower, changing them every 3000 or so miles. I was obviously the only way to do it if I want my car to last forever.

I finally bite the bullet today and went from Mobil1 to the Havoline dino, as I still plan to change it every 3000 miles (no way I can stop doing that, it's an addiction I tell ya). Never thought the day would come, me using dino.

Anyhow, no problems going from synthetic to dino right?

I actually feel the car running quieter with the Havoline than the Mobil1 that was in there.
 
Havoline is pretty good. I used it in a V-8 Mustang with no problems (5W-20) It has a high flash point (460 deg f) and rivals most synthetics. Go to www.havoline.com and look up the "product data information database" and choose havoline and the specific grade.
 
quote:

" I actually feel the car running quieter with the Havoline than the Mobil1 that was in there."

We hear that a lot here.
grin.gif
 
I wish I had the courage to change from Mobil 1 to Havoline dino in my 2 cars. Would save me a fortune! Did a calculation - I am 58 years old, both my cars were bought new last year and will do about 12k and 6k miles each per year and I am keeping them till they fall apart. They will last longer than me!
Roger
 
This is exactly what I did. I used M1 [fine product], but realized with my 3-4,000 mile oil changes, it was a big waste.
Also, Havoline is a superb oil.
 
I went to Havoline in all my cars after noticing
oil pressure fluctuation on my 1992 Ford Club
Wagon with the 5.8 V-8 using Castrol GTX. After
the engine was warmed up the oil pressure would
constantly flucuate, after swithing to Havoline
it remains Rock Steady.
 
I'm running Havoline for an Auto-RX cycle in my Firebird, when I usually run Mobil 1 the rest of the time. I have had no problems, and notice no significant difference. My gas mileage might be slightly lower, but again, no real significance.
 
Advance Auto Parts store will only carry Havoline in the black bottle.

If you can find Havoline in the silver, aqua or light blue bottle....buy it.

[ April 25, 2006, 07:58 PM: Message edited by: LT4 Vette ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by terminaldegree:
I'm running Havoline for an Auto-RX cycle in my Firebird, when I usually run Mobil 1 the rest of the time. I have had no problems, and notice no significant difference. My gas mileage might be slightly lower, but again, no real significance.

I did the same thing. After some research on this site I decided to use Havoline for my ARX clean cycle, and I liked it so much, I am switching all 3 cars over for good. Was using M1, PP, and experimenting with TropArtic before I started the ARX, but the cars just run smooth with the Havoline. Plus, only $9 at WW for 5 quarts. IMO, the perfect oil.....
 
is the silver bottle the blend oil? On their website they show the aqua bottle as high mileage oil, silver as blend, and the light blue looks like it's synthetic, so which would be best to use?
 
Mobil 1 can go longer than 3,000 miles. A lot of people run Mobil 1 for 10,000 miles. In fact, "Mobil 1 Extended Performance" (which I now use) can go 15,000 miles. Your oil filter will even last that long if it is good quality filter such as AC-Delco or Motorcraft or Purolator.

Assuming you require 5 qts. of oil and a $5 oil filter, the cost is just about $40 using Mobil 1 EP for 15,000 miles.

Havoline and other dinos sell for about $2.25 a qt. so 5 qts. will cost you $11.25 + $5 for the oil filter + tax. I'll say just about $20 altogether. Changing it at the recommended 3,000 miles will require 5 oil changes as compared to Mobil 1 EP. That comes to $100.

$60 less to use Mobil 1 EP as compared to dino changed 5 times is a big savings along with your time spent changing oil. It may even save you even more money if you have a garage change the oil for you as opposed to doing it yourself for less money. Most garages charge about $35 for regular dino oil and filter and labor.

I imagine the reason the engine is quieter with dino is due to deposits starting to form.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Buford T. Justice:
Mobil 1 can go longer than 3,000 miles. A lot of people run Mobil 1 for 10,000 miles. In fact, "Mobil 1 Extended Performance" (which I now use) can go 15,000 miles. Your oil filter will even last that long if it is good quality filter such as AC-Delco or Motorcraft or Purolator.

Assuming you require 5 qts. of oil and a $5 oil filter, the cost is just about $40 using Mobil 1 EP for 15,000 miles.

Havoline and other dinos sell for about $2.25 a qt. so 5 qts. will cost you $11.25 + $5 for the oil filter + tax. I'll say just about $20 altogether. Changing it at the recommended 3,000 miles will require 5 oil changes as compared to Mobil 1 EP. That comes to $100.

$60 less to use Mobil 1 EP as compared to dino changed 5 times is a big savings along with your time spent changing oil. It may even save you even more money if you have a garage change the oil for you as opposed to doing it yourself for less money. Most garages charge about $35 for regular dino oil and filter and labor.

I imagine the reason the engine is quieter with dino is due to deposits starting to form.


Let's work your math real quick. Your Mobil 1 EP plus a Mobil 1 filter (which I believe may be required to get their "protection" guarantee) is $29 (5 quarts) plus $12 for filter. So your at $41 plus tax. Havoline runs fine to 5k (I think we all agree that 3k is a myth) and it $9 (5 quarts) and $2 for a filter. So your $41 translates into $11 x 3 for me, and I'm at $33 for an oil that is just as good. And that is only if you have the moxy to run the M1 all the way to 15k, which most people don't.

I am not saying that M1 is a bad oil, in fact I belive it is a very good oil. However, for you to make a non-factual statement about deposits forming with dino, would be the same as if I were to say that all cars are noisy and must be experiencing excessive wear with M1 inside. Neither statement has any merit without any facts to back it up.

I am glad you have found your oil of choice, and I am sure you will wish all of us dino choosers "happy trails" as we move on to the 200k+ mile club and beyond with our cheap, deposit forming, excessive fluid changing ways. I, like you, sleep very good at night knowing that my cars run very smooth with the oil/filter combo I choose. We just have different approaches to the same end.
 
My math on the dino oil was right based on prices in my area. If you want to be closer to the exact cost, Havoline sells for $1.98 at my local Advance Auto Parts store. So 5 qts. would cost about $10 plus about another $5 for a name brand oil filter makes $15. This should come to about $16 after tax which is $4 shy of my estimate.

Now assuming you go 5,000 miles on dino (though I believe most will only go 2500-3000 miles with it), it would take 3 oil changes to equal the service life of Mobil 1 EP so you will spend $48 total. That is $2 more than one oil change of Mobil 1 EP. But also remember you will more than likely make 2 more trips to your part store to get the additional dino oil for the next 2 oil changes plus you will spend more time changing oil. Or you will take 2 more trips to your local oil change garage to have it done and wait there until it is done if they are busy and it will probably cost more than $16. It will be more like $35 per oil change after labor is added.

Now sticking with the recommended 3,000 mile schedule will cost $80 ($16 X 5 oil changes assuming you change your own oil). That is $34 more than one oil change of Mobil 1 EP.

I think the deposits statement was factual. I have always heard that dino will form deposits more often and quicker than synthetic especially if you run it too long.
 
quote:

Originally posted by LT4 Vette:
Advance Auto Parts store will only carry Havoline in the black bottle.

If you can find Havoline in the silver, aqua or light blue bottle....buy it.

Other than AAP's obviously attractive 75% discount closeout prices, what do you like about Havoline's synthetic, blend and high-mileage formulas? Searches don't turn up very much - especially for the blend and high-mileage varieties. Thanks.
 
The poster is going to change at 3K whether he uses dino or syn. He's better off with dino and saves $16 every OCI.

Runs quieter- That's a fact. More moly than M1 that's a fact. That you have to go 2 or 3x as far to break even on cost - that's a fact.
 
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