Mobil1 european 0w-40 vs PP euro-l 5w-30 for WRX

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Long time reader and just thought I would post this question, I have a 2016 wrx and have been running Kendall GT euro then euro+ when it came out. Wrx DFI tends to fuel dilute the oil somewhat and have always gone with a thicker 5w-30 to at least keep it in the ballpark for warranty reasons. Went with Kendall since Mobil1 was harder to find and LOTS more expensive. When I went to purchase Kendall this time it has almost doubled in price and is about on par with Mobil1 ESP in terms of cost so looking at options. I know Kendall Euro+ and Mobil1 ESP are both low saps oil, maybe that is important with my DFI but hard to say, I did run Kendall GT Euro for several changes which is a full saps oil and when they came out with euro+ switched to that.

Anyway I have a 5qt jug of Mobil1 European 0w40 but also can purchase Pennzoil Plat Euro-l 5w30 which I believe is a low saps oil vs the mobil1. I know the mobil1 tends to be on the thinner side of 40w so that doesn't concern me much and I am out of warranty so there's that but just curious to see if anyone thinks that the PP euro-l would be a better oil. I am doing 5k OCI and have pulled uoa's for all of them except my last one, but will pick that up again just to keep an eye on it.

My other option is Castrol European 5w30 but I think the PP euro-l would be better option so just curious on opinions between the mobil1 euro 0w40 vs the PP euro-l 5w30.

Thanks :)
 
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I have read where FA20DIT owners have ran the regular M1 0W-40 without issues. OTOH, IAG Performance started noticing issues with deposits early on in WRX’s running Motul X-cess and now spec Motul X-clean at the 3k oil change on a built engine.


You’re probably fine if it’s only one OCI but I wouldn’t run a high SAPS oil on a regular basis.
 
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I run PP 0W-40 in my Saab turbo. Walmart sometimes has a rollback on it.

Pennzoil.jpg
 
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Pennzoil euro L 5w30 is about the thickest around for a 5w30.

PP 5w30 has all the nice TGDI specs
D1G2, jeep, ms13340, api SP etc.

FWIW I use the PP 5w30 and change at conservative intervals 4-5k
 

Bishoptf

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Thanks for the comments, I think PP euro-l is probably the closest thing to the Kendall that I have been running but I did notice that it did not meet the VW504/507 spec which the Kendall does but not sure at 5000oci it matters. I will pull a uoa after the next oil change since I have been doing it for all the kendall euro oil changes so I can compare but probably will be fine.
 

Bishoptf

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It does have BMW Longlife-04 approval so you do have that.

And a UOA isn’t going to tell you anything about how the oil performed in regards to VW 504 00 approval.
Yeah understand will just have something to compare it to my other uoa's, just noticed that the Kendall ticked more spec boxes but looks like the PP euro-l should be fine.
 
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As usual I have to ask what difference are you expecting from the various oil blends? With the proper spec oil and maintenance ,it won't be the oil that causes us to replace our vehicles. Pick an proper oil from one of the majors and drive that car to the ground.
 
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Yeah understand will just have something to compare it to my other uoa's, just noticed that the Kendall ticked more spec boxes but looks like the PP euro-l should be fine.
PPE L has MB229.51, which is next to MB229.52 strictest in Low-SAPS category.
M1 0W40 from a performance standpoint is as good as it gets. I used it on track, and Porsche is using it in races. Kendall is OK, but Mobil1 etc. is another step up. Kendall is your typical group III oil. There is nothing wrong with it, but if you are comparing it, and it is a similar price, it is a step up from Kendall.
The issue with M1 0W40 is an additive pack that is super strong resulting in high sulfated ash. If that engine is known for IVD, go PPE L.
Another option is Quaker State Euro 5W40 on Wal Mart web site.
But, my rule is: any oil with MB229.5 or MB 229.51/52 (low-SAPS) is ALWAYS good and safe choice.
 

Bishoptf

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As usual I have to ask what difference are you expecting from the various oil blends? With the proper spec oil and maintenance ,it won't be the oil that causes us to replace our vehicles. Pick an proper oil from one of the majors and drive that car to the ground.
I think the concern is a standard 5w30 RC oil shears down with the fuel dilution to a 20wt and then you also have the potential DFI deposit issues, is it really an issue not sure but I think a low saps oil MAY help. Not my first sub but so far for this one its not using any oil and my other one drank the stuff, lol. :)

I was just trying to find something equivalent to the kendall euro+ that was cheaper than mobil1 ESP, looks like I have some options and will probably go with the PP euro-l but will also look at the quaker state since I was not aware of that one.
 

Bishoptf

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PPE L has MB229.51, which is next to MB229.52 strictest in Low-SAPS category.
M1 0W40 from a performance standpoint is as good as it gets. I used it on track, and Porsche is using it in races. Kendall is OK, but Mobil1 etc. is another step up. Kendall is your typical group III oil. There is nothing wrong with it, but if you are comparing it, and it is a similar price, it is a step up from Kendall.
The issue with M1 0W40 is an additive pack that is super strong resulting in high sulfated ash. If that engine is known for IVD, go PPE L.
Another option is Quaker State Euro 5W40 on Wal Mart web site.
But, my rule is: any oil with MB229.5 or MB 229.51/52 (low-SAPS) is ALWAYS good and safe choice.
Thanks for the information, the quaker state appears to be another good option also in 5w-40, thinking I'd rather stay with a 5w-30 not that it should matter much...
 
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Thanks for the information, the quaker state appears to be another good option also in 5w-40, thinking I'd rather stay with a 5w-30 not that it should matter much...
Take into consideration that VOA shows QS below 12.5cst. Now VOA is not as accurate, but I highly doubt QS is thicker than 12.6-12.7cst (12.5 is cut off between XW30 and XW40).

But you are focusing on the wrong value. What matters protection-wise is HTHS. GTL oils have high HTHS, and I would not be surprised if PPE L 5W30 HTHS value is in the range of M1 0W40. QS 5W40 is probably in 3.7-3.8 range.
If you are not tracking your vehicle, PPPE L 5W30 is an excellent option and dirt cheap.
 

Bishoptf

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Take into consideration that VOA shows QS below 12.5cst. Now VOA is not as accurate, but I highly doubt QS is thicker than 12.6-12.7cst (12.5 is cut off between XW30 and XW40).

But you are focusing on the wrong value. What matters protection-wise is HTHS. GTL oils have high HTHS, and I would not be surprised if PPE L 5W30 HTHS value is in the range of M1 0W40. QS 5W40 is probably in 3.7-3.8 range.
If you are not tracking your vehicle, PPPE L 5W30 is an excellent option and dirt cheap.
No tracking just trying to keep it in good shape so I can sell it to get a corolla gr :)

I was waiting and waiting for a new STI to come out and Subaru decided to ditch the performance sector so I am on the waiting list for a Corolla GR if and when that happens, just spirited driving but much less now that I am working from home so PP euro-l is what I am going to go with for now :)
 
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PPE L has MB229.51, which is next to MB229.52 strictest in Low-SAPS category.
M1 0W40 from a performance standpoint is as good as it gets. I used it on track, and Porsche is using it in races. Kendall is OK, but Mobil1 etc. is another step up. Kendall is your typical group III oil. There is nothing wrong with it, but if you are comparing it, and it is a similar price, it is a step up from Kendall.
The issue with M1 0W40 is an additive pack that is super strong resulting in high sulfated ash. If that engine is known for IVD, go PPE L.
Another option is Quaker State Euro 5W40 on Wal Mart web site.
But, my rule is: any oil with MB229.5 or MB 229.51/52 (low-SAPS) is ALWAYS good and safe choice.
Does SA even matter with short OCI? I run M1 0/40 with a gdi, but I run 3k oci bc of fuel dilution
 

Bishoptf

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Thought I would post my last Kendall GT Euro+ UOA, just changed it with PP Euro-L 5w-30, will be awhile before I pull the next UOA but will be interesting to see the differences, 5k OCI below:

sub-uoa.jpg
 
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To the guys here who are very knowledgeable on the ACEA specs - Wouldn’t pretty much any C3 oil work well in this?

I would think mid-SAPS would be a good compromise for protection and then minimizing IVD as well as protecting the cats if it burns oil?

And pretty much all the ACEA C3 spec oils will have min. 3.5 HTHS for a good viscosity reserve even in heavier use (backroads, mountain driving, etc).
 

Bishoptf

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Weird to not see GC fuel listed and just an estimate, is there a reason for that?
My understanding is that they only do the analysis on the fuel dilution if the cSt number is less than one of the known cSt spec. When I change my oil I run my car and get the oil up to temp, not sure if that matters or not but my cSt has always been in the 10 range, here is the information from the site, I do not think you have to be logged in to see it - https://www.eoilreports.com//testPopUps/fuel-dilution.html

I think the key wording in the above is
Code:
 below 9.8 cSt for gasoline engine oil.
My guess is since they do not have an official Kendall Spec(?) they always do the estimated since it's above 9.8cSt, although it is higher than 1cSt based on the 12.2 spec which they say they should do it, I've never requested that they do it but I think they would if requested, my numbers have always been acceptable to me.
 
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OVERKILL

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My understanding is that they only do the analysis on the fuel dilution if the cSt number is less than one of the known cSt spec. When I change my oil I run my car and get the oil up to temp, not sure if that matters or not but my cSt has always been in the 10 range, here is the information from the site, I do not think you have to be logged in to see it - https://www.eoilreports.com//testPopUps/fuel-dilution.html


My guess is since they do not have an official Kendall Spec(?) they always do the estimated since it's above 9.8cSt, although it is higher than 1cSt based on the 12.2 spec which they say they should do it, I've never requested that they do it but I think they would if requested, my numbers have always been acceptable to me.
I'd request it, they did it on my recent one and I didn't have to ask, but it was out of spec for the lube:
Screen Shot 2022-08-11 at 8.20.22 PM.jpg
 
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