Mobil1 5w30, 7162 mi, 2013 Chevy Equinox 2.4l 4cyl

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591
Location
Pittsburgh PA
This fill was me cleaning out my extra quarts of oil. 3 Quarts of older M1 5w30 (SL I believe), 1 quart AmsOil 0w30, and 1 quart Redline 0w40. 80% are highway miles and the other 20% are hardcore city stop-n-go driving. Lots of idling as every road is under construction in the Pittsburgh area. I filled it back up with M1 HM 10w40 (A bit thicker of a 40 weight)... ....and for the first time in 20 years I used a Fram oil filter, the synthetic variety. Thoughts...?? [img:center][/img]
 
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3,234
Location
Richmond, VA
did you do lots of short tripping right before you took the sample? Just thinking that could result in the high fuel dilution. What kind of mileage are you getting on that SUV? Does it have a 4spd auto? I am averaging 28mpg in my Saturn, love the 2.4.
 
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13,934
Location
Kendall, FL
Proof positive that frankenbrews are fine. (not just this one, but various UOA's with brews as well) Except for the fuel (which is probably taken into consideration by the mfc.) Nice report and thanks for sharing.
 
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3,398
Location
Midwest, Illinois
Originally Posted By: Barkleymut
did you do lots of short tripping right before you took the sample? Just thinking that could result in the high fuel dilution. What kind of mileage are you getting on that SUV? Does it have a 4spd auto? I am averaging 28mpg in my Saturn, love the 2.4.
That's a DI engine in the Nox. Any change run that long will show a large amount of fuel present, no matter the oil. Better off to pick a reasonable, conventional oil and change it out about every 4k. Run the filter twice out to 8k if you want to make the overall cost about the same as a syn change at 7k.
 
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9,783
Location
Saskatoon canada
Originally Posted By: wemay
Proof positive that frankenbrews are fine. (not just this one, but various UOA's with brews as well) Except for the fuel (which is probably taken into consideration by the mfc.) Nice report and thanks for sharing.
Exactly. When I read comments about mixing being harmful I can't help but wonder if the commenter has mastered chewing gum and walking at the same time. And for those who put stock in the whole wear metals thing should note its the units lowest iron counts yet. I look forward to seeing your next one with the 10w-40. Thanks for posting.
 

OVERKILL

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46,096
Location
Ontario, Canada
Originally Posted By: Clevy
And for those who put stock in the whole wear metals thing should note its the units lowest iron counts yet.
I would hope so, it is trending down as per the multiple UOA's, as the mileage on the engine increases and break-in finishes. I don't find that surprising and doubt it has anything to do with the "brew" in the pan.
 
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12,925
Location
Northern Kentucky
While M1 10w40 HM is a fine oil, i think it's out of place here and you may note higher wear on the next sample. Especially since its going to be in the colder months in PA when you have the oil in the sump and the 10w40 HM isn't the best oil for winter, even though its a good oil. I would expect copper to be higher with 10w40 but i hope i'm wrong!
 
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449
Location
Ontario,Canada
10w40 on a 2.4cyl eco tec engine that specs 5w30? Won't that botch the warranty if one exists? Have they changed the spec due to fuel dilution issues? Just curious.. 10w40 seems unnecessarily thick at startup and @100c when compared to most 5w30 oils that should be more than adequate when combined with a reasonable OCI. Let us know how it works out...
 
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9,783
Location
Saskatoon canada
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
While M1 10w40 HM is a fine oil, i think it's out of place here and you may note higher wear on the next sample. Especially since its going to be in the colder months in PA when you have the oil in the sump and the 10w40 HM isn't the best oil for winter, even though its a good oil. I would expect copper to be higher with 10w40 but i hope i'm wrong!
How exactly is this wear to be measured exactly. My comment above was tongue in cheek. Wear metals in oil are NOT an indication of engine wear. Why is it that experts with decades in the field explain this yet it's ignored? I'm thankful that overkill directed me to that specific tidbit of info last year or I too would continue to believe,mistakenly,that wear metals in a used oil analysis translate to measurable wear.
 
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13,934
Location
Kendall, FL
The op mentions that 60% of this UOA (may have) consisted of API SL M1. If SL was the classification, what effect if any would you surmise this had on the result? SM was introduced in 2004 so SL is at least 10 years old.
 
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Messages
12,925
Location
Northern Kentucky
Originally Posted By: wemay
The op mentions that 60% of this UOA (may have) consisted of API SL M1. If SL was the classification, what effect if any would you surmise this had on the result? SM was introduced in 2004 so SL is at least 10 years old.
I don't think it would have much of an effect at all. Old Mobil 1 API SL was good stuff.
 
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2,393
Location
Paradise of Florida
Fuel dilution too high causing 8.4cst. Even that quart of 0w40 wasn't enough. Maybe run 2 quarts of the 40 grade with whatever 30 you have. 10w40 M1 is a great oil. It'll work year round. A little fuel dilution and shearing will turn it into a 30 grade.
 
Messages
13,934
Location
Kendall, FL
Originally Posted By: beanoil
That's a DI engine in the Nox. Any change run that long will show a large amount of fuel present, no matter the oil. Better off to pick a reasonable, conventional oil and change it out about every 4k. Run the filter twice out to 8k if you want to make the overall cost about the same as a syn change at 7k.
I agree. If dilution bothering you, go with beanoil's recommendation.
 
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