M1 HM 10w40, Fram Synthetic OF, GM OLM was at 2% when changed.
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Mobil1 10w40, 8292 mi, 2013 Chevy Equinox 2.4l 4cy
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Why 10w-40 in a Ecotec?
Thicker at startup especially in the winter could be causing excessive wear. If you are going thicker for the fuel dilution, maybe a 0w-40 would be a better choice.
Thicker at startup especially in the winter could be causing excessive wear. If you are going thicker for the fuel dilution, maybe a 0w-40 would be a better choice.
I was looking for a thicker oil to handle the dilution,. This engine is specd for 5w30 DEXOS.
SO using a Syntheitc 10w vs. 5w causes this kind of spike...?...mabee...
The used oil def smelled of gas when changed. But then it always has.
SO using a Syntheitc 10w vs. 5w causes this kind of spike...?...mabee...
The used oil def smelled of gas when changed. But then it always has.
I would run a 5w30 dexos and keep it to 5000 miles. But that's just me.
The Blackstone reports seem to seriously underestimate fuel contamination. Some Subaru owners have sent identical samples to two different labs ... and had substantially different fuel readings on the two reports.
Your viscosity is quite low for a 40 grade oil... you may want to shorten your OCI way down, and just run a conventional. No other way to deal with high fuel except to change it...
Your viscosity is quite low for a 40 grade oil... you may want to shorten your OCI way down, and just run a conventional. No other way to deal with high fuel except to change it...
I can see why you picked a 10w40, good move on your part. I agree with the others though and Blackstone, you may need to shorten your OCI's.
If you are considering a different lube, Valvoline products have shown themselves to stand up to fuel dilution very well.
If you are considering a different lube, Valvoline products have shown themselves to stand up to fuel dilution very well.
Agreed on cutting back to 5-6000 miles. Maybe try M1 0w-40. That's a very stout oil that works well in some demanding applications.
I think the fuel is a problem. When I drain the oil I can usually smell the gas, even when Blackstone replies very little was found...
The Sample from 3/23/2014 is M1 0w40.....
I was going to run a homebrew of 2.5qts M1 0w40 and 2.5qts M1 HM 10w40.
But, as luck would have it, I was having the inspection done and tires rotated and was offered a free oil change coupon. So I used it and am running Autozone DEXOS 5w30, which I think is synthetic.
FYI..
2-6-2015 M1 HM 10w40
8-2-2014 Home brew M1 5w30 3qts, Amsoil 0w30 1qts, RL 0w40 1qts.
5-26-2014 M1 5w30
3-23-2014 M1 0w40
1-14-2014 M1 5w30
10-25-2013 M1 5w30
7-24-2013 M1 5w30
The Sample from 3/23/2014 is M1 0w40.....
I was going to run a homebrew of 2.5qts M1 0w40 and 2.5qts M1 HM 10w40.
But, as luck would have it, I was having the inspection done and tires rotated and was offered a free oil change coupon. So I used it and am running Autozone DEXOS 5w30, which I think is synthetic.
FYI..
2-6-2015 M1 HM 10w40
8-2-2014 Home brew M1 5w30 3qts, Amsoil 0w30 1qts, RL 0w40 1qts.
5-26-2014 M1 5w30
3-23-2014 M1 0w40
1-14-2014 M1 5w30
10-25-2013 M1 5w30
7-24-2013 M1 5w30
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Agreed on cutting back to 5-6000 miles. Maybe try M1 0w-40. That's a very stout oil that works well in some demanding applications.
Yep I'd do this. Run it 6k miles and send in for UOA. Or use what is recommended and change when OLM shows 25% left.
Agreed on cutting back to 5-6000 miles. Maybe try M1 0w-40. That's a very stout oil that works well in some demanding applications.
Yep I'd do this. Run it 6k miles and send in for UOA. Or use what is recommended and change when OLM shows 25% left.
Try T6. It should be at least as tough as the M1 0w40 at less cost. Our 2.2s like it, though how that relates to your DI 2.4 is nebulous.
This is a high mileage lease that will be returned very soon.
I will grab a uoa just before returning.
The high fuel bothers me. Mabee that is fixed in the 2.5..
I will grab a uoa just before returning.
The high fuel bothers me. Mabee that is fixed in the 2.5..
Is this vehicle short tripped a lot?
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Originally Posted By: addyguy
I'd keep an eye on this engine...this model year is know for timing chain failures, and the Al spike could be the start of the chain letting go.
Was thinking the same thing.
I'd keep an eye on this engine...this model year is know for timing chain failures, and the Al spike could be the start of the chain letting go.
Was thinking the same thing.
Mainly used for 24mi round trip commute 6-7 days a week this last OCI.
I did use the factory remote starter during the winter.
Previous OCIs were mainly long highway trips.
I did use the factory remote starter during the winter.
Previous OCIs were mainly long highway trips.
Originally Posted By: addyguy
... the Al spike could be the start of the chain letting go.
Just curious: How would an aluminum spike be related to impending timing chain failure? I thought chains and sprockets were made of steel.
... the Al spike could be the start of the chain letting go.
Just curious: How would an aluminum spike be related to impending timing chain failure? I thought chains and sprockets were made of steel.
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Originally Posted By: BearZDefect
Originally Posted By: addyguy
... the Al spike could be the start of the chain letting go.
Just curious: How would an aluminum spike be related to impending timing chain failure? I thought chains and sprockets were made of steel.
The body for the guides are aluminum IIRC, with nylon on top. If the nylon breaks off, the chain contacts the aluminum.
Originally Posted By: addyguy
... the Al spike could be the start of the chain letting go.
Just curious: How would an aluminum spike be related to impending timing chain failure? I thought chains and sprockets were made of steel.
The body for the guides are aluminum IIRC, with nylon on top. If the nylon breaks off, the chain contacts the aluminum.
Thank you for the explanation. It sounds like this timing chain failure mode is really a timing chain guide failure.
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