Mobil1 0W-40 • 5500mi • 2010 Civic Si K20z3

[ScottyB]

here's my 2nd run on good old M1 0W40 in the high revving Si. like most of you it was an odd year for driving, the car sat quite a lot from Jan-April but when it was taken out, it was run harder than usual (part to blow the cobwebs out, part to keep me sane). even though miles are low (and associated TBN still decent), total run time was 15 months, which is about the threshold where i start getting a weird twitch since my internal clock is shouting at me to dump the oil every 12 months. for $20 for a 5qt jug, i'm very content with the wear metals given the aggressive driving and also happy with the flashpoint, air filtration and overall consistency.

currently filled with Castrol 0W-40 to see how it will fare, combined with a Honda A01 filter.

 

[Revving2Redline]

Thanks for sharing.

 

[TrainingPolicy]

Looks good. What made you run an 0W-40 in the K20? I had an 07 SI and I rode it hard and put it up wet and never even considered moving off the 5w30, I ran it from 14xk miles to 200k miles and then sold it. These engines are not known to be hard on oil in the when mostly stock.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Does your Honda feel sluggish at all on a W40?

 

[ScottyB]

Looks good. What made you run an 0W-40 in the K20? I had an 07 SI and I rode it hard and put it up wet and never even considered moving off the 5w30, I ran it from 14xk miles to 200k miles and then sold it. These engines are not known to be hard on oil in the when mostly stock.

neat to hear you had one too. ever do a UOA on the 30weight? that's a good long ownership, and thanks for the input.

in all other markets besides the US, they're specced for up to a 40 weight so that weighed on my decision. the hot local weather (i'm next door in GA), wanting added protection for frequent enthusiastic driving, looking to extend drain intervals beyond the typical change interval, and wanting to try to cut down on some oil burning were all part of the decision. i also like to run something stout for a chain driven valvetrain. lastly i noticed that going to a 0W-40 essentially eliminated cold start VTC rattle (unless its been sitting for a very long time) although that's due to the cold 0W viscosity and flow characteristics and not the hot viscosity.

its worth noting that i also chose this grade as sort of a middle ground compromise between a typical 30 and "full" 40 weight. these 0W-40s kinda fall in the middle. for the price, availability, big TBN value and apparent protection these UOA's seem to show, i think these grades work out pretty well. hopefully they provide an interesting data point for the forum.

Does your Honda feel sluggish at all on a W40?

not at all. as a matter of fact i saw my best ever MPG's on a roadtrip with the Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 in the sump. 34 MPG at about a 78mph cruise, fully loaded. factory rated for 32MPG highway.

 

[aquariuscsm]

neat to hear you had one too. ever do a UOA on the 30weight? that's a good long ownership, and thanks for the input.

in all other markets besides the US, they're specced for up to a 40 weight so that weighed on my decision. the hot local weather (i'm next door in GA), wanting added protection for frequent enthusiastic driving, looking to extend drain intervals beyond the typical change interval, and wanting to try to cut down on some oil burning were all part of the decision. i also like to run something stout for a chain driven valvetrain. lastly i noticed that going to a 0W-40 essentially eliminated cold start VTC rattle (unless its been sitting for a very long time) although that's due to the cold 0W viscosity and flow characteristics and not the hot viscosity.

its worth noting that i also chose this grade as sort of a middle ground compromise between a typical 30 and "full" 40 weight. these 0W-40s kinda fall in the middle. for the price, availability, big TBN value and apparent protection these UOA's seem to show, i think these grades work out pretty well. hopefully they provide an interesting data point for the forum.



not at all. as a matter of fact i saw my best ever MPG's on a roadtrip with the Pennzoil Platinum Euro 0W-40 in the sump. 34 MPG at about a 78mph cruise, fully loaded. factory rated for 32MPG highway.

It's funny you mention VTC rattle,I got it every time on 0W20. With 10W30 I get absolutely no VTC rattle at all. And as you mentioned global oil recommendations, my Accord gets recommended up to a 15W40 elsewhere. I've been tempted to give 0W40 a go, unless I stick with a W30 (5W or 10W). I see no reason whatsoever to run a W20.

 

[ScottyB]

It's funny you mention VTC rattle,I got it every time on 0W20. With 10W30 I get absolutely no VTC rattle at all.

weird! so much for my theory i guess. all i know is it did the trick.

another external factor for using this oil is that i can likely use it in my other vehicle as well. it'd be nice to have one grade of oil in my garage instead of 2 or 3 right now. my shelf space is at a premium!

 

[TrainingPolicy]

neat to hear you had one too. ever do a UOA on the 30weight? that's a good long ownership, and thanks for the input.

in all other markets besides the US, they're specced for up to a 40 weight so that weighed on my decision. the hot local weather (i'm next door in GA), wanting added protection for frequent enthusiastic driving, looking to extend drain intervals beyond the typical change interval, and wanting to try to cut down on some oil burning were all part of the decision. i also like to run something stout for a chain driven valvetrain. lastly i noticed that going to a 0W-40 essentially eliminated cold start VTC rattle (unless its been sitting for a very long time) although that's due to the cold 0W viscosity and flow characteristics and not the hot viscosity.

its worth noting that i also chose this grade as sort of a middle ground compromise between a typical 30 and "full" 40 weight. these 0W-40s kinda fall in the middle. for the price, availability, big TBN value and apparent protection these UOA's seem to show, i think these grades work out pretty well. hopefully they provide an interesting data point for the forum.

Those appear to be legitimate reasons. No, I never did a UOA on the car, this was before I really got into being an oil nerd. Have you had any cut down on oil burn? mine burned oil religiously and the VTC rattle was the worst sound known to man, and one of the reasons I let it go.

 

[AJB0009]

The M1 has double the Boron of the PP in the report.

 

[ScottyB]

Those appear to be legitimate reasons. No, I never did a UOA on the car, this was before I really got into being an oil nerd. Have you had any cut down on oil burn? mine burned oil religiously and the VTC rattle was the worst sound known to man, and one of the reasons I let it go.

i've found oil burn is almost directly related to how hard i drive the car. putzing around town or easy 6th gear cruising, almost none. lots of redline/VTEC operation, it'll go through up to a 1/4qt in a day. i really don't care - its not unusual for a high strung Honda engine and it doesn't blow smoke or anything. likely due to low tension rings. i check the oil about every 500 miles, takes no time at all.

that rattle is awful though. i've been told its basically harmless but it certainly gets your attention.

 

[ScottyB]

The M1 has double the Boron of the PP in the report.

interesting isn't it? PP held viscosity a bit better but M1 seemed more loaded with additives, slightly. both did the job nearly identically, and if i can ever find the PP Euro again on sale i'll have no hesitation running it.

 

[TrainingPolicy]

i've found oil burn is almost directly related to how hard i drive the car. putzing around town or easy 6th gear cruising, almost none. lots of redline/VTEC operation, it'll go through up to a 1/4qt in a day. i really don't care - its not unusual for a high strung Honda engine and it doesn't blow smoke or anything. likely due to low tension rings. i check the oil about every 500 miles, takes no time at all.

that rattle is awful though. i've been told its basically harmless but it certainly gets your attention.

I cant confirm or deny that, I remember driving the car both ways lol it was my daily all through undergrad in college. Yeah, the oil burn didnt bother me, just knew I have to check it, which i made the habit then of checking all the fluids once a week.

I remember talking with the dealer about the rattle and they said 'it was completely normal and did no damage to the engine, but they could fix it for $600-1k', and I respectively declined that work. But, I HATED that rattle, made me feel like the car was falling apart.