Mobil Truck & SUV Honda Valkyrie

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Aug 6, 2005
Irvine, CA
Here's my report from Blackstone:

Oil Type: M1 Truck & SUV 5w/40 (AKA Delvac 1)
Miles on Oil: 1,273
Miles on Bike: 12,006
1st colum M1 - 2nd is Amsoil 10w/40 motorcycle specific, with 2414 mi's on it.

Alum: 3 - 3
Chrom: 0 - 1
Iron: 9 - 25
Copper: 5 - 12
Lead: 0 - 1
Tin: 0 - 0
Moly: 1 - 1
Nickel: 0 - 0
Manganese: 0 - 0
Silver: 0 - 0
Titanium: 0 - 0
Potassium: 2 - 0
Boron: 41 - 0
Silicon: 6 - 4
Sodium: 0 - 0
Calcium: 2705 - 3494
Magnesium: 417 - 12
Phosphorus: 1137 - 1051
Zinc: 1377 - 1261
Barium: 0 - 0

TBN: 7.5

SUS @ 210: 64.7
Flashpoint: 350
Fuel: 1.3
Antifreeze: 0.00
Water: 0.00
Insolubles: 0.1

Looks decent to me, Blackstone writes, "...all wear reading low and properly balanced for this type of engine..."
Looks like it sheared to a 30 weight, which I am not too happy with.

I am wondering what weight it would shear to if I ran it 2,000 miles or 2500 miles?

This perhaps validates short OCI's. I can't imagine running an oil for the 8,000 miles that the manual says to do - at 8,000 miles it might be 2 weight oil --


Another thought, Amsoil stayed within grade even at the higher mileage on the oil...

The trends are going in the right direction, but I can't tell whether that's because your motor is breaking in or because one oil did better than the other. However, from the Potassium and Silicon it looks like some dirt is getting past your air filter. Check for intake leaks and replace the filter if necessary.

I'd stick with 15W-40 oil to reduce shearing. It doesn't get cold enough in Irvine to make the 15W rating a concern.

I'm currently using Red Line 10W-40 to see how well it can hold its viscosity in my Kawasaki KLR650. The hype says an ester-based oil like Red Line should hold its viscosity better than most others. Another month or two and I'll be at the end of my 3,000 mile OCI and I'll send a sample off to Blackstone and Terry for analysis.
Blake, thanks for the comments. I have a scheduled maintenance on Thursday, and part of the service is to replace the air filter.

When I changed it out, I put in Delvac 1300 Super, 15w/40, and will test that.

I'll be interested in seeing your post on the Red seems that not many oils hold their viscosity for any extended period of time, regardless of the 'advertising hype.'

I'll be curious to see how your test with Delvac 15/40's the weight I use. Always good to keep a watch for good performing 15-40's.
With K and Si so low, would one consider that within standard deviation? Regardless of whether the oil sheared down or not, your wear numbers tell you your bike likes it. As long as shifting feel is good, does it not seem like this oil serves you and your needs well? Am I missing something?

Ethan, the bike shifted great - no problems, very smooth...I think the wear numbers are a little better than with Amsoil, if you double the miles and double the results, it's slightly better.

I have the M1 Motorcycle, 10w/40 that is on the shelf, but it is even a lighter 40 than the M1 Truck & SUV, so if the TS sheared into a 30 weight at 1273 miles, I wonder what the result will be for the M1 Motorcycle - my guess is that it will shear as well - at almost $12 per quart.

Is shearing important? Well, since all the oil companies say they are shear resistant, shear stable, it appears so, because they use that as a selling point. I'm not an engineer, so if a bike is spec'd for 40, is using a 30 acceptable??? Gee, I don't know -- I would guess not.
IIRC, weights below a 30w have been implicated in accelerated transmission wear in motorcycles.

RevRider, was your "motorcycle specific" Amsoil the newer MCF 10W-40?
IslaVistaMan, no, it was the previous Amsoil version, it stayed in grade at 2400 miles of use, but barely. That's why my thoughts are no oil, used in bikes w/shared sump, should be used for extended drains. If a 30w is the minimum that should be left in the bike, it follows that weight of oil is important, shearing or non-shearing is then equally important. Which in my opinion, is more important than the marketing hype of being able to pour at -60 and won't burn off until 480 -- just what bike operates in those conditions??? My opinion, what is needed is an oil that is shear stable, keeps wear down, and keeps the engine clean.

When I use the M1 Motorcycle specific (I bought a few months ago, its on my shelf), there is no way I am leaving it in beyond 1500 miles - I know it will shear to a 30 weight in no time. It ticks me off that I paid $12 a quart for it...

Hi Sun, grasshopper is beginning to be able to take the oil from your hand...

Delvac 1300 super is in, and I hope it will pass the test - I'd be satisfied with 2000 miles out of it - need it to stay in grade, low wear results - you can't beat the price $7.99 for a gallon at Walmart...

jkwawaii, we only have a couple of UOAs from a VTR1000 that are three to four years old, but in those tests Red Line 10W-40 was able to stay a 40-weight over a 4,200 mile OCI and another 5,300 mile OCI.

So, the initial evidence is pretty good that the oil will hold up for quite a while in one motorcycle. Certainly Red Line held its viscosity better than any other oil we've seen.
it is so much easier for an oil to stay in grade if it is in a motor that only spins 2-3000 rpm all day long. put that same oil in a bike that runs 6-7000 rpm all day long and the results will change. better yet, put it in a bike that sees 10-13k rpm for just 4 hours and out drains thrashed oil.
1) i've not looked for any
2) what and kill another "top" rated oil?

3) how much is that stuff? would it set a new $$ per oic record for me? i think the royal purple hold that esteme right now.
LOL! It is pricey ($7/qt via mail order, or around $9/qt at most stores). Way too much money if you don't mind changing oil frequently.

Me? I'm a lazy bum and like to change the oil as little as possible.
Of course, I don't want to compromise the longevity of my engine/transmission, either, which is why I get UOAs done and reviewed by Terry.
Do we see more VII in the synthetic 5w-40 than in a Group II 15w-40? I can't imagine that, but what do I know.. Most xw-40 shear down in motorcycle applications, but it seems that the petroleum-based oils tend to thicken up again due to oxidation. I think so, because most synthetics, even som 10w-40s, turn into 30 weights, whereas the most 15w-40 HDEO's stay in grade. A synthetic 10w-40 is definitely more shear-stable than a group II 15w-40.. isn't it?

Please correct me if I am wrong, thanks.


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