Mobil Delvac 1 vs Mobil 1 SuperSyn

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1,013
Location
Colorado
Out of curiousity, do you all think I could run the Mobil Delvac and it would help with oil consumption issues with my 1998 Isuzu Trooper (3.5L V6)?? On the Delvac 1 page, it mentions it helps with oil consumption issues. BTW, I purchased the vehicle new and switched over to Mobil 1 10W30 at about 6,000 miles and since new, the vehicle has used a quart of oil every 1,500 miles (give or take). The vehicle currently has 90,000 miles on it. The rig has been trouble-free, but the oil usage is a pain. Reports from other Trooper owners indicates they are experiencing the same issues with oil consumption. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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5,785
Location
Dixie
Curtis, I would expect the use of Delvac 1 would reduce oil consumption by perhaps 25% to 50%, in comparison to using the much thinner Mobil 1, 10w-30. In other words, it should reduce the oil consumption to a quart in 2000-3000 miles. A quart of oil consumption in 1500 miles is pretty high, I wouldn't be satisfied with that at all. Another suggestion if you can find a local dealer would be to try the Amsoil 10w-40 in this motor. It's also a mid range 40wt and has a very low evaporation rate of 6.6% in the Noack volatility test. I'd expect a comparable reduction in oil consumption with that formulation. If you wanted to try an experiment for the warmer months, you could also try running a 15w-40 commercial engine oil. That will give you a good idea if running the heavier synthetic will significantly reduce oil consumption. I'd suggest the Chevron Delo 400 or Delvac 1300 if you go this route. TS
 

CJH

Messages
489
Location
Pennsylvania
Switching to any XW40 oil is going to help reduce your consumption immediately due to the viscosity. You could use inexpensive Delvac 1300 (15W40) or the much more expensive Delvac 1 (5W40). Since you live in Canada, you would benefit greatly from the Delvac 1 5W40. I have a consumption problem with my 1997 Lumina. It was using 1 quart of 10W30 dino oil per 850 miles. Went to 10W30 and got the same results. Tried Castrol GTX High Mileage oil and it improved to 1,050 miles per quart. Next I went to Rotella T 5W40 and it went to 1 quart / 1,400 miles and it seems to be gradually improving from there due to cleaning action. The Rotella T 5W40 is similar weight to the Delvac 1, so I would expect similar consumption numbers. The experts on here will be quick to say the Delvac 1 is better because it is a Group 4 synthetic (a "real" synthetic) while the Shell Rotella T 5W40 is a group 3 synthetic (petroleum based). I use the Rotella T 5W40 because it is only $3.22 per quart while the Delvac 1 is over $5 a quart and the Rotella is available at our Wal*Mart. I recommend Delvac 1 5W40 or Rotella T 5W40 for your vehicle. If you don't see benefits after an oil change or two, you can always change back. I am sure you will see improvements. [ June 03, 2003, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: CJH ]
 
Messages
130
Location
New York
In your situation (a not particularly stressed, higher mileage oil burner), I'd use good quality dino, and just let the truck burn it. One question I have is what is the recommended viscosity for the vehicle, given the conditions (mostly temperature) you drive in? I'm guessing it will be the close to universal 5w30. Just give it that. I wouldn't up the viscosity just to reduce the oil consumption, because you'll likely increase the engine wear. I wouldn't use expensive synth, since you're going to just burn it off anyway. And I doubt its worth tearing down the engine to fix whatever the problem is (which might be endemic to the engine design to begin with), just to save a few quarts (okay maybe liters up there) of oil a year.
 
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62
Location
CA
I have the same 3.5 L V6 in my 99 Acura SLX. I am now using Red Line. It used a little less than one QT in less 3,000 miles. The trip went to Las Vegas NV, Moab UT, Scottsdale and Gila Internment Camp AZ. I have to admit that i would like to have something cheaper than Red Line. Check the Australia & NZ site for Mobil. They recommend 20-50 dino. The Holden Jackeroo and the Holden Monterrey all have 20-50 dino. These are all Isuzu Troopers. My Acura dealer says 10-30 any brand (no exceptions) and 7500 mile oil change. Filter change every OTHER oil change. He privately recommends Red Line.
 

CJH

Messages
489
Location
Pennsylvania
quote:
Originally posted by MikeW: I wouldn't up the viscosity just to reduce the oil consumption, because you'll likely increase the engine wear.
Mike, I have to challange you on that statement. If you are in the proper temperature environment for the oil, how is thicker oil going to increase engine wear? Actually, using a 5W40 should REDUCE wear over a 5W30 due to a thicker oil film on the moving parts. Am I missing something here?
 

Al

Messages
19,256
Location
Elizabethtown, Pa
quote:
Originally posted by CJH:
quote:
Originally posted by MikeW: I wouldn't up the viscosity just to reduce the oil consumption, because you'll likely increase the engine wear.
Actually, using a 5W40 should REDUCE wear over a 5W30 due to a thicker oil film on the moving parts. Am I missing something here?

A thicker oil could contribute to more wear when it it too thick and builds up heat-leading to oil thinning out and subsequent oil and film failure. or it may not flow readily enough to get to the part that needs lubrication. The modern automobile engine doesn't (IMHO) present these challenges to a 40 wt. oil. Curtis: For now just use 15W-50 as makeup. You will be able to safely increase the interval you are running and at the same time decrease consumption. Next time you change use a 25-50 percent mixture of 15W-50/10W-30 Mobil 1 . But all the other suggestions were equally good. I agree with TooSlick about that percentage of reduction. I used a 25% mixture of the 15W-50 in my Toyota and it cut usage by about 30%. The tested weight was 11.25 cST-only a mid range 30 compared to a 10 cSt formula for M-1 10W-30. [Smile]
 

pmt

Messages
148
Location
MN
My 96 T-Bird (4.6 L V8) suddenly started using Mobil 1 5W-30 TriSyn at about 40,000 mi. Used almost a pint in 1000 miles. Engine previously didn't use a drop in 5000 mile changes. Possibly due to failing valve stem seals. This engine is notorious for this problem, but usually at much higher miles than 40,000. Anyway, I switched to Mobil Delvac 1 and consumption dropped to 1/2 pint in 5000 miles. Will see if Delvac 1 can continue to control oil consumption as the miles accumulate.
 
Messages
130
Location
New York
Given the parameters: A location that has real winters, and a fairly non-stressed SUV engine, engine using a significant amount of oil but having no other noticable problems, and that 5w30 is the mfgr spec'ed vis (I never got this as a fact, but I assuming it. If it's wrong, just substitute the spec'ed vis)... When the engine is warm and the oil is well distributed at the proper pressure, and operating in a low stress enviroment, an oil with the spec'ed vis should be keeping all the bearing surfaces separated, and the engine would be experiencing essentially no wear. Even normal stop and go driving would fall in this scenario. Upping the vis in this circumstance buys you nothing. It might even be costing you something, by reducing oil flow. In other circumstances (towing, high performance, extreme heat, etc), upping the vis might help. Most wear comes at startup (engine cold, oil cold, at its highest viscosity, and down in the pan). You want to get oil flowing ASAP. The argues for the lowest w rating that's in range for the engine. Given this, you COULD go with a super wide range multigrade synth, but, as explained above, having the increased high temp vis doesn't buy you anything, and the oil is more expensive. Now remember the engine is using oil, so you really don't want to be using expensive oil, since it will just burn it anyway. Hence my suggestion
quote:
Originally posted by CJH:
quote:
Originally posted by MikeW: I wouldn't up the viscosity just to reduce the oil consumption, because you'll likely increase the engine wear.
Mike, I have to challange you on that statement. If you are in the proper temperature environment for the oil, how is thicker oil going to increase engine wear? Actually, using a 5W40 should REDUCE wear over a 5W30 due to a thicker oil film on the moving parts. Am I missing something here?

 
Messages
34,378
Location
NJ
quote:
Curtis: For now just use 15W-50 as makeup
I agree with Al, just use a thicker oil. NOAK is irrelevant in this case. A friend of mine just ran Mobil 1 0w-30 in a new accord out to 7k miles with no oil usage. New, tightly built Honda engine with tight clearances.
 

CJH

Messages
489
Location
Pennsylvania
I can understand if you don't want to spend the money for a 5W40 synthetic...but you still have not made a case for the 5W40 damaging an engine that is rated for 5W30. Flow at start up is similar for 5W30 dino and 5W40 synthetic...in fact, synthetic will be better. after the engine is hot, the 40 weight oil will be fine. So I still don't see how your engine would be damaged...better protected I would say!
quote:
Originally posted by MikeW: Given the parameters: A location that has real winters, and a fairly non-stressed SUV engine, engine using a significant amount of oil but having no other noticable problems, and that 5w30 is the mfgr spec'ed vis (I never got this as a fact, but I assuming it. If it's wrong, just substitute the spec'ed vis)... When the engine is warm and the oil is well distributed at the proper pressure, and operating in a low stress enviroment, an oil with the spec'ed vis should be keeping all the bearing surfaces separated, and the engine would be experiencing essentially no wear. Even normal stop and go driving would fall in this scenario. Upping the vis in this circumstance buys you nothing. It might even be costing you something, by reducing oil flow. In other circumstances (towing, high performance, extreme heat, etc), upping the vis might help. Most wear comes at startup (engine cold, oil cold, at its highest viscosity, and down in the pan). You want to get oil flowing ASAP. The argues for the lowest w rating that's in range for the engine. Given this, you COULD go with a super wide range multigrade synth, but, as explained above, having the increased high temp vis doesn't buy you anything, and the oil is more expensive. Now remember the engine is using oil, so you really don't want to be using expensive oil, since it will just burn it anyway. Hence my suggestion
quote:
Originally posted by CJH:
quote:
Originally posted by MikeW: I wouldn't up the viscosity just to reduce the oil consumption, because you'll likely increase the engine wear.
Mike, I have to challange you on that statement. If you are in the proper temperature environment for the oil, how is thicker oil going to increase engine wear? Actually, using a 5W40 should REDUCE wear over a 5W30 due to a thicker oil film on the moving parts. Am I missing something here?


 

newtoncd8

Thread starter
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1,013
Location
Colorado
Just to follow-up, I recently switched our 98 Trooper (now with 95,000 miles) to Mobil 1 15W50 and when it would normally consume 1 quart of Mobil 1 10W30, it didn't use a drop with 15W50. Unfortunately, I am not sure 15W50 will be good for the Colorado winter we are heading into... so, I drained a quart out and added a quart of Mobil 1 0W40.
 
Messages
2,569
Location
College Dorm...
quote:
Originally posted by MikeW: Given the parameters: A location that has real winters, and a fairly non-stressed SUV engine, engine using a significant amount of oil but having no other noticable problems, and that 5w30 is the mfgr spec'ed vis (I never got this as a fact, but I assuming it. If it's wrong, just substitute the spec'ed vis)... When the engine is warm and the oil is well distributed at the proper pressure, and operating in a low stress enviroment, an oil with the spec'ed vis should be keeping all the bearing surfaces separated, and the engine would be experiencing essentially no wear. Even normal stop and go driving would fall in this scenario. Upping the vis in this circumstance buys you nothing. It might even be costing you something, by reducing oil flow. In other circumstances (towing, high performance, extreme heat, etc), upping the vis might help. Most wear comes at startup (engine cold, oil cold, at its highest viscosity, and down in the pan). You want to get oil flowing ASAP. The argues for the lowest w rating that's in range for the engine. Given this, you COULD go with a super wide range multigrade synth, but, as explained above, having the increased high temp vis doesn't buy you anything, and the oil is more expensive. Now remember the engine is using oil, so you really don't want to be using expensive oil, since it will just burn it anyway. Hence my suggestion
Mikey, Not to be an @ss, but you must understand that oil is simply more than just "oil"...there's a lot of other stuff in the mixture, but for this discussion, anti-wear and extreme pressure additives are the most crucial. In regards to wear while the engine is running, the oil film is always being sheared away or squeezed away in an engine, most notable in regards to areas such as the top rod bearing, around the rings, and the cam/lifter interface. Your engine does wear, but it is the additive package that actually stops most of the wear in crucial areas. Upping the viscosity will place a thicker hydrodynamic film between various parts and place a lower importance on the mixed-film/boundary lubrication properties of the oil. Very similar is what I have to say in regards to cold-startup wear. Once again, if it were just plain oil with no additives, then on cold-start up's, your engine would definitely wear at a high rate, and the use of the lightest oil would be of the upmost importance. But, additives like molybdenum, phosphorus, and boron supposedly chemically react with the metal and form strong films. On startup, the film protects and metal on metal action until a fluid film is established. Now, yes, you are right, a thin oil would be good, as it would place less reliance on the additive on startup. With that said though, I'm running Delo 400 15w-40 in my Chevy pickup/4.3L V-6, and oil pressure is established almost immediately to about 33psi, so I'm not the least bit concerned with running a thinner oil. Winter weather could change my mind...we'll see! [Cheers!] [ September 19, 2003, 12:51 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
 
Messages
2,569
Location
College Dorm...
quote:
Originally posted by TooSlick: If you wanted to try an experiment for the warmer months, you could also try running a 15w-40 commercial engine oil. That will give you a good idea if running the heavier synthetic will significantly reduce oil consumption. I'd suggest the Chevron Delo 400 or Delvac 1300 if you go this route.
I tried this idea, and am more than happy with it. After running good 'ol mineral 10w-30 in my truck (before finding this site), I decided to change over to 15w-40 as I learned more about oil, and started to read a technical book on the subject. After switching to Delo 15w-40, I've noticed two improvements: 1. Lower oil consumption - Not immediately, but after a few weeks, oil consumption was about half of what it was before. Over the past month or so, my consumption has continued to improve as well. 2. Noticeable less blue smoke on startup. With 10w-30, it blew a pretty good puff out after sitting for awhile...this is because the Chevy 4.3L supposedly has bad valve seals. With Delo, the blue smoke has definitely been reduced. On top of that, for the $6/gallon, your simply getting an excellent base oil with an excellent additive package (loaded with EP/AW additives!), whether your choosing Delo, Delvac, Long-Life, or Rotella-T. [ September 19, 2003, 12:50 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
 
Messages
11,006
Location
Canberra ACT Australia
XW30 is 'CAFE Country' (US) oil. 5W40 would be considered exotic and thin here in exactly the same engine and there sure are a lot of these suckers on the roads in Oz. I have Pennzoil 5W30 a very good oil by all accounts in my Outback but it rattles on startup and noisy running compared to when I ran Redline 5W30 but was much better on Delvac 1. After a 3rd RX clean and rinse I'm moving to a mid 40W BP Visco 5000 (5W40) PAO syn with RX maint dose. RL 5W40 would be better but IT sales are not great right now so 20-litres V5000 for A$129 better than A$135.80 for 5 US quarts RL 5W40.
 
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34,378
Location
NJ
Depends on what type of car though. My car feels sluggish on a 40wt oil. It prefers a lighter viscosity.
 
Messages
988
Location
Melb, Aus
Sprintman, Where did you buy the V5000? I'm looking at changing the oil in the Daewoo. It has lived on Mobil1 previously, now on V5000. Looked at the new Mobil1 5w50 but just thought it would be too heavy. Mobil1 10-30 would be ok but rather expensive and hard to get) V5000 is $38 at the local Stn, but only for 4 Ltrs (although I think this is enough for the car.) Suing the Delvac1 in my Holden Calais V6. So far 2000kms on it.
 
Messages
43,676
Location
'Stralia
The Shell Helix Plus 50 25W-70 has made the Camira rather sluggish, and lost 3MPG. I've not noticed a great deal of difference 50 to 40 weight in the past.
 
Messages
353
Location
somewhere in Jersey
quote:
Originally posted by Curtis Newton: Just to follow-up, I recently switched our 98 Trooper (now with 95,000 miles) to Mobil 1 15W50 and when it would normally consume 1 quart of Mobil 1 10W30, it didn't use a drop with 15W50. Unfortunately, I am not sure 15W50 will be good for the Colorado winter we are heading into... so, I drained a quart out and added a quart of Mobil 1 0W40.
Just saw this thread .... my 99 Zu is drinking a pint to 1 qt per 1-1.5k miles depending on oil. The consumption seemed to have started around 60k; the truck currently have more than 149k miles. I have tried the Pennz 15w40,10w30HM, both of which show good wear but burns off faster than the Castrol 10w30HM with similar wear. I'm currently using LubroMoly 0w40 which is consumed much less but as with the other oils, the consumption does increases slightly as the mileage on the oil adds up.I am planning to try 10w40 Castrol Syntec/Blend(already on-hand) which are A3 rated for the next OCI. Since I have some GC 0w30 as well, I will run them in the winter and probably top off or mix with 5W40/50 Castrol Syntec. It's good to hear that the the M1 15W50 is working out for you. Keep as posted on the result of the mixture as well. I will definitely try it if none of my experiments prove to be the holy grail. What is your OCI miles? I'm assuming you are using Fram sure drain or fumoto drain valve? [ September 19, 2003, 09:33 AM: Message edited by: pinoy99 ]
 
Messages
102
Location
Southern California
Just saw this thread too. Will try Delo 400 15w40 in my '98 Trooper for my next oil change (about 2k miles to go). Like you guys I also have consumption problems and not to mention a leaking tranny fluid. Have to bring it in soon. Anyway, please post your findings on the M1 15w50. Thanks. [Smile]
 
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