Mobil 1R 0W-30 SS

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phillyFX4

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Would running this oil this summer have any negative effects on emissions at inspection time?
Also, anyone have any opinion on me trying this oil in an 02' - 5.4L modular V8 engine? I tow a fishing boat at times. I'm supposed to use a 20W but still a little bit squeamish(about the 20W's) during the HOT Philly summers.
dunno.gif


thanks.....stay safe
 
I wouldn't use the 20w in the hot summer while towing either. Don't blame you.

I think the Mobil-1 0w-30R would be a good choice. I'm using it in my 03 Honda CRV which also calls for the 20W.

As far as V8's go I used Mobil-1 0W-30 in my Chevy pickup 5.7 liter engine. No problems up until I sold it last summer.
 
I have not tried it, but I have looked into it. One thing I'm concerned about is this oil's API status (with respect to possible warranty arguments, NOT performance issues). Unlike all other automotive forms of M-1, Mobil is silent as to API status of this oil on the website. I ASSUMED from this that it is not API licensed, although I have not confirmed. Yesterday, I noticed on the concurrent "M-1 Properties" thread, that this oil appears to contain levels of P that exceed what is permitted for API cert.

So, would it be fair to conclude that this oil is NOT intended by Mobil for street use in vehicles that are still under warranty?
 
I think M1R's high P levels preclude it from being API SM (latest spec?) certified, hence the absence of the API donut on the M1R bottle.

I'm running a 50:50 mix of this with M1 0W-30 in my Acura 3.2TL and I live in GA; I'm not concerned about the hot weather but I'm not towing a boat either. From what I've read, Honda V6s tend to generate high Pb values so I'm going to find out what effect this fortified AW package has on Pb.
 
I plan on doing a UOA but I changed my oil at the beginning of March and to date I've put only ~2K miles on the oil. At this rate, I probably won't hit ~5-6K to do my next oil change and send in a sample until September or so. I'll post my results then.

Maybe someone will oblige in the meantime?...
 
I don't think you need an oil like M1R. It's overkill for your situation. Regular M1 is good enough. Use their 10w-30 year round.

M1R is a great choice for high performance cars. It has a very well balanced additive package IMO. You want more ZDP under racing conditions.
 
I think it would work at lest as good as any 20Wt and I am going to assume better! M1's 39Wt's are so close to being a thick 20Wt that it would be all but impossable for any $20 UOA to discern the difference in wt. once it has been in the engine for any length of time. The additive levels would not cause you any harm to your emmision system. THe only down side to M1R is that if the dealer ever did do a UOA because you sludged up the engine etc.... It would be obvious to anyone that knows anything about oil additive and current rateings that this oil was not API approved. I doubt anyone at your local dealership or even the regional guys would spot it. If it went to court though rest assured an engineer someplace would catch this more then likely.

Some how I doubt you are ever going to sludge M1 0W30. Usually the only reason for dealership to do UOA is due to sludgeing!

I can live with the risk myself of running non-api approved oils. Everything I run far exceeds API spec.'s for cleanliness and engine protection. The OEM would still have to prove that my lubricant choice is what caused the failure. I do not know of any cases were the lubricant was found to be at fualt.

So I say if you want to try M1R go for it! If you do not want any risk at all stay away from it and stick with busters recomendation!

Good Luck!!!
 
John:

Your analysis is right on. My point in raising the warranty question was not really that you might lose this fight if you got into it, but really that it would be best to avoid it completely if you can. I think that the odds greatly favor the owner in this one, but who wants to spend the time, energy, and money necessary to win?
 
ekpolk, I can see both sides of this debate. I can readily see your point of view and agree that it is surely the safer way to go. We all have varing levels of comfort in terms of risk. I do not and will not be told what I can run in my vechile! So I choose to take the risk knowing that the odds are in my favor! I am always quick to point out the risks to people not to scare them but to make sure they know that the dealer will try to use anything he can against you as leverage to avoid a pay out!

Their is no way though that the dealer would ever be able to tell M1 5W30 from a 20Wt with a $20 UOA! SO if you want to run an API aproved 5W30 or 10W30 in your vechile I would not sweat it!
 
With Philly having the "infamous" head gasket, spark plug shooting 5.4L Ford truck engine I would not do anything to give Ford an out if you have problems. To save money Ford has become REAL tough lately with big/expensive warranty claims. It's unusal but I agree with JB
grin.gif
. Use Mobil 1 5W-30 for availability convenience. It's close to the 20's but has a slightly higher viscosity and it's stable and will hold up to towing just fine.

Whimsey
 
Why not avoid any warranty issue in the first place. Use motorcraft 5w20. You will not have a problem with warranty. I sincerely doubt you will have any problem with the oil itself. I run it in my wife's 5.4 down here during the cold south texas summers. Darn thing is still running...just can't kill that thing even with that crappy 20 wt.
wink.gif
 
quote:
Originally posted by Whimsey:
With Philly having the "infamous" head gasket, spark plug shooting 5.4L Ford truck engine I would not do anything to give Ford an out if you have problems. To save money Ford has become REAL tough lately with big/expensive warranty claims. It's unusal but I agree with JB
grin.gif
. Use Mobil 1 5W-30 for availability convenience. It's close to the 20's but has a slightly higher viscosity and it's stable and will hold up to towing just fine.

C'mon guy's, somebody's got to be the guinea pig. I'm currently running M1 5W-30SS (3 Qts.) + M1 0W-20SS (3 Qts.) with a K+N oil filter and NO leaking head gaskets and no flyin" spark plugs, ha ha.
I already got the oil so I guess I volunteered.....it's only for the summer months. I'll do an UOA sometime in Oct.
Whinsey, my Triton engine is doing just fine thanks.
cheers.gif


Whimsey
Click to expand...
 
quote:
Which Mobil 1 Formula for a New Mustang GT?

I have a brand-new Mustang GT. The recommended oil viscosity is 0W-20. I live in South Texas where it's hot most of the year and the traffic is normally stop-and-go. Given the fact that I have been told throughout the years that only a "thick" oil will suffice, I have come to the conclusion that the newer oil viscosities are the correct way to go. With this in mind, would it be better for me to use Mobil 1 0W-30 Racing oil or the regular Mobil 1 0W-30? The racing oil says it protects during extremely high temperatures, but the regular oil has anti-sludge compounds. I'm confused.

-- D. Januhowski, Katy, TX

Mobil 1 Racing Formula is engineered for super high-output engines, including supercharged and turbocharged professional and amateur race cars, but does not meet the same OEM standards in the areas of fuel economy and emission system protection as does Mobil 1 0W-20 with SuperSyn. However, Mobil 1 0W-30 Racing provides an even higher level of antiwear and oil breakdown protection than other Mobil 1 grades, but this extra protection, while essential in sliding versus rolling valve trains and extreme temperature conditions, may not be needed in but only the most severe applications. So for severe applications like racing, where extra durability and wear control even beyond Mobil 1 is desired, then Mobil 1 0W-30 Racing would be an excellent choice.
Click to expand...
 
Mobil 1 0W-30 Racing provides an even higher level of antiwear and oil breakdown protection than other Mobil 1 grades, but this extra protection, while essential in sliding versus rolling valve trains and extreme temperature conditions, may not be needed in but only the most severe applications. So for severe applications like racing, where extra durability and wear control even beyond Mobil 1 is desired, then Mobil 1 0W-30 Racing would be an excellent choice.


He He , does that mean just use a dropper full in your dino for enhancement of the dino ?

That stuff is cheap for what it is , 35 bucks a case of 6 . That might be a good spike for the other 30wt Mobil SS's
 
guys, you really need to start following the oil grade recommendations and stop thinking you know what is better for your truck.

Anyone thinking 0w40 is good for anything but a tractor trailer needs to think before he uses such thick grade oil in a gas engine.
 
Well, M1 0W-40 works just fine in my VW. In fact it's recommended. Saying 0W-40 or 5W-40 is only for tractor-trailer trucks is just wrong.

I've also used it with great success in a Dodge Intrepid with the Mitsubishi "sludge" engine. I don't buy into the belief that using a thicker oil is worse for your engine, the same engines run on thicker oil in many parts of the world. Only in the U.S., because of CAFE, are thinner oils recommended.
 
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