Originally Posted By: PZR2874
Spun bearings at one point.... 2005-2006 years IIRC
WRX's
I'd lay that off on Roo, not M1.
Spun bearings at one point.... 2005-2006 years IIRC
WRX's
I'd lay that off on Roo, not M1.
Mobil 1 vs. Pennzoil Platinum
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Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Thats all fine and dandy but which oil will warranty base stock for 10k OCI? Thats what new Toyotas require.
Having just purchased a new Toyota, this interests me. I have voted with my wallet and stocked up on TGMO, OE filters and drain plug gaskets. Since XOM makes TGMO, I would have no qualms using M1 which also publicly gives the guarantee you're looking for. From Mobil's website:
"Oil Change Interval: Oil change intervals can be as short as 3,000 miles or as long 15,000 miles on some new cars. We recommend that you follow the oil and filter change frequencies shown in your owner's manual. With Mobil 1’s high-performance reserves, you can have the confidence to go the full mileage or time frame recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil 1 is especially suitable for the latest vehicles with extended drain intervals or vehicles with oil monitoring systems that vary oil drain intervals."
Thats all fine and dandy but which oil will warranty base stock for 10k OCI? Thats what new Toyotas require.
Having just purchased a new Toyota, this interests me. I have voted with my wallet and stocked up on TGMO, OE filters and drain plug gaskets. Since XOM makes TGMO, I would have no qualms using M1 which also publicly gives the guarantee you're looking for. From Mobil's website:
"Oil Change Interval: Oil change intervals can be as short as 3,000 miles or as long 15,000 miles on some new cars. We recommend that you follow the oil and filter change frequencies shown in your owner's manual. With Mobil 1’s high-performance reserves, you can have the confidence to go the full mileage or time frame recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil 1 is especially suitable for the latest vehicles with extended drain intervals or vehicles with oil monitoring systems that vary oil drain intervals."
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Originally Posted By: PZR2874
Spun bearings at one point.... 2005-2006 years IIRC
WRX's
And this is the oil's fault how? As I said, Porsche has been using M1 in boxers for AGES........
Spun bearings at one point.... 2005-2006 years IIRC
WRX's
And this is the oil's fault how? As I said, Porsche has been using M1 in boxers for AGES........
Never was Mobil's fault, just internet fear spread afar. It was either Subaru's fault for faulty bottom ends(I doubt) or the overzealous nature of WRX drivers spinning the engine to redline every shift and beating the p[ss out of it(I don't doubt).
I've driven with many a WRX owner and they are all the same, especially one friend who would go FULL BOOST & REDLINE when stone cold 15 secs after starting. Didn't think anything of it.
I've driven with many a WRX owner and they are all the same, especially one friend who would go FULL BOOST & REDLINE when stone cold 15 secs after starting. Didn't think anything of it.
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Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Never was Mobil's fault, just internet fear spread afar. It was either Subaru's fault for faulty bottom ends(I doubt) or the overzealous nature of WRX drivers spinning the engine to redline every shift and beating the p[ss out of it(I don't doubt).
I've driven with many a WRX owner and they are all the same, especially one friend who would go FULL BOOST & REDLINE when stone cold 15 secs after starting. Didn't think anything of it.
Ehhh, you need to talk/pound some sense into that friend dude.
Never was Mobil's fault, just internet fear spread afar. It was either Subaru's fault for faulty bottom ends(I doubt) or the overzealous nature of WRX drivers spinning the engine to redline every shift and beating the p[ss out of it(I don't doubt).
I've driven with many a WRX owner and they are all the same, especially one friend who would go FULL BOOST & REDLINE when stone cold 15 secs after starting. Didn't think anything of it.
Ehhh, you need to talk/pound some sense into that friend dude.
Drivers MTL.... Just weird how you don't hear about it anymore.
Both are very good. Choose based on price or your personal preference.
Those who write one is better than the other without facts to back it up are expressing opinion.
Those who write what someone with unknown credentials told them on the phone as fact are repeating hearsay.
Those who write one is better than the other without facts to back it up are expressing opinion.
Those who write what someone with unknown credentials told them on the phone as fact are repeating hearsay.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Never was Mobil's fault, just internet fear spread afar. It was either Subaru's fault for faulty bottom ends(I doubt) or the overzealous nature of WRX drivers spinning the engine to redline every shift and beating the p[ss out of it(I don't doubt).
I've driven with many a WRX owner and they are all the same, especially one friend who would go FULL BOOST & REDLINE when stone cold 15 secs after starting. Didn't think anything of it.
Ehhh, you need to talk/pound some sense into that friend dude.
I've tried...it wasn't even synthetic either(dealer bulk). That was back in 06-07 I think. I am sure the car has long since been traded.
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Never was Mobil's fault, just internet fear spread afar. It was either Subaru's fault for faulty bottom ends(I doubt) or the overzealous nature of WRX drivers spinning the engine to redline every shift and beating the p[ss out of it(I don't doubt).
I've driven with many a WRX owner and they are all the same, especially one friend who would go FULL BOOST & REDLINE when stone cold 15 secs after starting. Didn't think anything of it.
Ehhh, you need to talk/pound some sense into that friend dude.
I've tried...it wasn't even synthetic either(dealer bulk). That was back in 06-07 I think. I am sure the car has long since been traded.
I use to believe in M1 being the superior retail syn, but after 50k on a GM ShortStar which developed stuck piston rings, I lost my faith. I am currently attempting to clear the problem. Anyway I like PP and PU claims to clean pistons and sludge. I have some PU (FAR) to try next OC.
You said the best thing about using brand X motor oil over brand Y. Free, buy either on price and both oils protect and preform just as well as any oil you can buy off the self.
Originally Posted By: mr_diy
I use to believe in M1 being the superior retail syn, but after 50k on a GM ShortStar which developed stuck piston rings, I lost my faith. I am currently attempting to clear the problem. Anyway I like PP and PU claims to clean pistons and sludge. I have some PU (FAR) to try next OC.
In my many years of using M1 oils and knowing many people that use it you are first one I have heard say this. How do you know you have stuck rings?
I use to believe in M1 being the superior retail syn, but after 50k on a GM ShortStar which developed stuck piston rings, I lost my faith. I am currently attempting to clear the problem. Anyway I like PP and PU claims to clean pistons and sludge. I have some PU (FAR) to try next OC.
In my many years of using M1 oils and knowing many people that use it you are first one I have heard say this. How do you know you have stuck rings?
I think both are excellent oils.
If I had to choose I'd go with Mobil 1.
I recently helped a co-worker change his oil (2007 Yaris) and I was impressed with the Mobil 1 EP that came out with 10K on it.
It felt like it would have done 15K easily.
If I had to choose I'd go with Mobil 1.
I recently helped a co-worker change his oil (2007 Yaris) and I was impressed with the Mobil 1 EP that came out with 10K on it.
It felt like it would have done 15K easily.
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Originally Posted By: mr_diy
I use to believe in M1 being the superior retail syn, but after 50k on a GM ShortStar which developed stuck piston rings, I lost my faith. I am currently attempting to clear the problem. Anyway I like PP and PU claims to clean pistons and sludge. I have some PU (FAR) to try next OC.
What oci`s (mileage) were you doing?
I use to believe in M1 being the superior retail syn, but after 50k on a GM ShortStar which developed stuck piston rings, I lost my faith. I am currently attempting to clear the problem. Anyway I like PP and PU claims to clean pistons and sludge. I have some PU (FAR) to try next OC.
What oci`s (mileage) were you doing?
These oils have very similar add packs and similar basestocks.
SOPUS tells you right up front that they use Grp III, while XOM dances around and tells you they use a blend of basestocks in different grades.
Rest assured that M1 5W-30 uses Grp III, and I state this as informed opinion.
PP usually has prettier UOAs than does M1, for what that's worth.
We have at least one member here who's done 10K OCIs on M1 since dirt was a new thing, never done a UOA and has had good results over long mileages.
Flip a coin and take your pick.
I've used entire stash's worth of both over the past thirty years, although PP has only existed for the past seven years or so.
IOW, I've used a lot more PP since '05 than I have M1, and I have very pretty UOAs for my two oldest Japanese cars to show for it.
If M1 were as heavily promoted with MIRs as PP has been, I'd probably have used more M1.
SOPUS tells you right up front that they use Grp III, while XOM dances around and tells you they use a blend of basestocks in different grades.
Rest assured that M1 5W-30 uses Grp III, and I state this as informed opinion.
PP usually has prettier UOAs than does M1, for what that's worth.
We have at least one member here who's done 10K OCIs on M1 since dirt was a new thing, never done a UOA and has had good results over long mileages.
Flip a coin and take your pick.
I've used entire stash's worth of both over the past thirty years, although PP has only existed for the past seven years or so.
IOW, I've used a lot more PP since '05 than I have M1, and I have very pretty UOAs for my two oldest Japanese cars to show for it.
If M1 were as heavily promoted with MIRs as PP has been, I'd probably have used more M1.
Originally Posted By: pbm
I think both are excellent oils.
If I had to choose I'd go with Mobil 1.
I recently helped a co-worker change his oil (2007 Yaris) and I was impressed with the Mobil 1 EP that came out with 10K on it.
It felt like it would have done 15K easily.
Just wondering how you were "impressed" and how you "felt" it would have done 15k "easily"?
Since its a 15k oil (or sorry... up to) why was it changed out at 10k?
Again just wondering...
Thanks, bill
I think both are excellent oils.
If I had to choose I'd go with Mobil 1.
I recently helped a co-worker change his oil (2007 Yaris) and I was impressed with the Mobil 1 EP that came out with 10K on it.
It felt like it would have done 15K easily.
Just wondering how you were "impressed" and how you "felt" it would have done 15k "easily"?
Since its a 15k oil (or sorry... up to) why was it changed out at 10k?
Again just wondering...
Thanks, bill
I have always been a M1 fan but am thinking about using PP more because it may clean better... Does PP really clean better then M1?
I am surprised this isn't pointed out:
M1: A1/B1, A5/B5 approved
PP: A1/B1 only
http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/files/2010_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf
Originally Posted By: http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/files/2010_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf
A1/B1 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a high temperature / high shear rate viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s for xW/20 and 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s for all other viscosity grades. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
technically, PP is not recommended for "high performance" engines when M1 is.
M1: A1/B1, A5/B5 approved
PP: A1/B1 only
http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/files/2010_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf
Originally Posted By: http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/files/2010_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf
A1/B1 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines specifically designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a high temperature / high shear rate viscosity of 2.6 mPa*s for xW/20 and 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s for all other viscosity grades. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
A5/B5 Stable, stay-in-grade oil intended for use at extended drain intervals in high performance gasoline engines and car & light van diesel engines designed to be capable of using low friction low viscosity oils with a High temperature / High shear rate (HTHS) viscosity of 2.9 to 3.5 mPa.s. These oils are unsuitable for use in some engines. Consult owner manual or handbook if in doubt.
technically, PP is not recommended for "high performance" engines when M1 is.
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Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
I have always been a M1 fan but am thinking about using PP more because it may clean better... Does PP really clean better then M1?
Using Pennzoil's numbers where PU cleans so much better than PP, which cleans so much better than their dino, etc., and where PU was compared to M1, M1 cleans 10% better than PP (if you trust all those numbers).
I have always been a M1 fan but am thinking about using PP more because it may clean better... Does PP really clean better then M1?
Using Pennzoil's numbers where PU cleans so much better than PP, which cleans so much better than their dino, etc., and where PU was compared to M1, M1 cleans 10% better than PP (if you trust all those numbers).
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Originally Posted By: Capa
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
I have always been a M1 fan but am thinking about using PP more because it may clean better... Does PP really clean better then M1?
Using Pennzoil's numbers where PU cleans so much better than PP, which cleans so much better than their dino, etc., and where PU was compared to M1, M1 cleans 10% better than PP (if you trust all those numbers).
You calculated the M1 to PP differential?
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
I have always been a M1 fan but am thinking about using PP more because it may clean better... Does PP really clean better then M1?
Using Pennzoil's numbers where PU cleans so much better than PP, which cleans so much better than their dino, etc., and where PU was compared to M1, M1 cleans 10% better than PP (if you trust all those numbers).
You calculated the M1 to PP differential?
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