Mobil 1 Home Brew

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O.K. all you oil freaks(like me), tell me what you think

I have a 2003 Mach 1 with 4.6 liter DOHC V-8. I have been using Mobil 1 10W-30. I am thinking about mixing Mobil 1 15W-50 to increase the HTHS a litle. It takes about 6.5 quarts to bring oil to the full mark. If I add a quart and a half of 15W-50 to 5 quarts of 10W-30, what do you think I will end up with. I don't know if I need to do this, I am not even sure if it would be beneficial. The car has about 10,000 miles on it now and occasionally I rev it uo to around 5500 rpm, but I don't race it and I don't think I abuse it. Ford specifies 5W-20 oil for this motor, but it has been serviced with Mobil 1 since the first oil change at 370 miles. Should I just leave well enough alone? Thanks...
 
I think going from a 5w-20 to Mobil1 10w-30 is a good enough move on its own, your getting a decent upgrade in visc. protection. I wouldnt push it any further on a new engine. Maybe a few years down the road if it begins to loosen up a thicker weight is alright, but I think you are doing great choosing Mobil1 10-30.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Idrinkmotoroil:
I think going from a 5w-20 to Mobil1 10w-30 is a good enough move on its own, your getting a decent upgrade in visc. protection. I wouldnt push it any further on a new engine. Maybe a few years down the road if it begins to loosen up a thicker weight is alright, but I think you are doing great choosing Mobil1 10-30.

I agree. 10W-30 should be fine. You could do an analysis though on the 10W-30 and the 25% mixture of the 15W-50. There is no problem mixing.
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There are a several reasons I got to thinking about this;
1. Ford recommended Mobil 1 15W-50 in a similar motor in the 2000 Cobra R.
2. Mobil 1 10W-30 is thin on the 30 side, meaning viscosity wise it is more like a thick 20 weight
3. All the discusion about the motives behind the manufacturers(read CAFE)promoting light engine oils.
I am going to sample the oil at the next change, and that might help me make a decision. Thanks for you replys.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jakebrake:
There are a several reasons I got to thinking about this;
1. Ford recommended Mobil 1 15W-50 in a similar motor in the 2000 Cobra R.


I don't think so. The engine in the Corbra R was based on the old pushrod Cleveland or Windsor block. It wasn't from the modular OHC family that your engine is. Two completely different animals.

Edit: Whoops, I am wrong about this. Engine used was the 5.4 modular V8.
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[ March 29, 2004, 11:37 PM: Message edited by: G-Man II ]
 
You might want to check out Mobil 1 R, Mobil's new racing oil. It is a thin 30wt. as well and has a lot of friction modifiers.
 
This talk of blending, and M1-R has got me wondering whether Patman should be doping M-1 0W-40 with M1-R.

To get a high(ish) 30, with a really good dose of additive, without going all of the way to 40.

[ March 30, 2004, 08:35 AM: Message edited by: Shannow ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Shannow:
This talk of blending, and M1-R has got me wondering whether Patman should be doping M-1 0W-40 with M1-R.

To get a high(ish) 30, with a really good dose of additive, without going all of the way to 40.


Or how about I just stick with what I've got now (GC/SLX 0w30), which started out at 12.2 cst and finished up 10,000km later at 12.9 cst, so it starts out as a high 30 and finishes at a low 40. It's working out very well for me so far. Although I'm still curious to see if something slightly thicker might work well too, which is why M1 0w40 is a top contender for my LT1 if GC goes away.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jakebrake:
I have a 2003 Mach 1 with 4.6 liter DOHC V-8. I have been using Mobil 1 10W-30. If I add a quart and a half of 15W-50 to 5 quarts of 10W-30, what do you think I will end up with.

I think you'll end up with a broken motor...
tongue.gif


Seriously, and leaving the CAFE issue out of it for the moment, using a 15W-50 oil in a modular motor that's still under warranty is asking for it...I have the same motor in a Marauder and I use Mobil 1 5W-30...when I start the engine cold, the oil pressure gauge pegs at 100 lbs...I shudder to think what it would be with a much thicker oil...and since 15W-50 doesn't have the API "certified for gasoline engines" starburst, the dealer could give you a hassle if you have any warranty issues...

To answer your last question: Yes, you should leave well enough alone...
 
quote:

Originally posted by RF Overlord:


Seriously, and leaving the CAFE issue out of it for the moment, using a 15W-50 oil in a modular motor that's still under warranty is asking for it...I have the same motor in a Marauder and I use Mobil 1 5W-30...when I start the engine cold, the oil pressure gauge pegs at 100 lbs...I shudder to think what it would be with a much thicker oil...


Perhaps the higher cold oil pressure is more due to your choice in oil filters though? Try switching to one with better flow characteristics and you might be able to get that cold oil pressure down to a lower level. I'd be scared to see mine hit that high, my LT1's oil pressure sits at about 45 at idle when I first start it, and goes up no higher than 60 while driving on cold oil.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Perhaps the higher cold oil pressure is more due to your choice in oil filters though?

my LT1's oil pressure sits at about 45 at idle when I first start it, and goes up no higher than 60 while driving on cold oil.


I'm using the Motorcraft FL-820S which, according to this board, is a good choice...plus, I'm not sure it's fair to compare things like oil pressure between a cast iron pushrod motor and an aluminium DOHC motor...

Another issue is that Ford doesn't put real working oil pressure gauges in any of its cars (I replaced mine), so most people probably don't even realise how high it can go. Other Marauder owners have reported similar pressures using various combinations of 5W-20 and 5W-30 Royal Purple, AMSOIL, and Mobil 1, along with K&N, AMSOIL, Mobil 1, and Motorcraft filters, so I'm fairly comfortable that my pressure readings are normal for this motor.

100 lbs at cold start
25 lbs at warm idle in drive
50 lbs at warm cruising speed (40-45 mph)
 
quote:

Originally posted by TOMBUCK:
WHY DON'T YOU USE AMSOIL 10W-30 AND THEIR DUAL FILTER THING??????

Nothing against Amsoil, I like the availability if Mobil 1. I can get it at Wally World, Kragen,
AutoZone, etc. As for the dual filter thing, I don't do extended drains, and I don't know about the complexity of a dual fiter setup.

[ March 31, 2004, 12:06 AM: Message edited by: Jakebrake ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Instead of mixing, why not just go with M1 0w40 instead?

I could do that, but I have on hand now about 40 quarts of Mobil 1 10W-30. Yeah, I know that I am sick, but I am what I am. I thought for the upcoming hot weather I might blend in a little 15W-50 to achieve a little higher HTHS. Thanks to everyone for all the comments.
 
quote:

Originally posted by RF Overlord:
100 lbs at cold start
25 lbs at warm idle in drive
50 lbs at warm cruising speed (40-45 mph)
That is quite a spread between cold and hot cruise. For example, my motorhome has around 70 psi cold and 58 hot at 2000 rpm. I suspect your hot cruise at 40-45 mph is maybe 1500 rpm and that hot pressure would be higher at 2500 rpm.
 
I went to my Mobil 1 10W-30/15W-50 (5.5 qts/1.5 qts) blend today when I changed the oil in the Mach 1. I took a sample of the 10W-30 to send off for analysis. I will take a sample of this blend when it is due. I did not notice anything on the oil guage as far as change in pressure or change in pressure rise. It works out to about a 23%/77% mixture of 15-50/10-30. The weather is hot around here all of a sudden and looks like it will stay that way.
 
I think the 10w-30/15w-50 is an excellent mix. I wouldn't be afraid to even go with a little more 15w-50 in hot weather. Ford calls for straight 15w-50 in the 2000 cobra R(5.4)!
 
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