Mobil 1 High Mileage

[AJB0009]

Same topic, let me ask a slightly different question.
A few months ago I purchased a 06 Tacoma, 2.7L. I had a M1 gift card and picked up M1 HM 5W30 for it. I did the first oil change last weekend. 113k miles now. Aside from all of the seal debate, I am wondering how long I should go before changing? It gets pretty darn hot here in NC during the summer. The truck gets babied though, I don't do any towing or hauling, I drive it very easy, no hot rodding.
With that oil and a Wix XP filter, is a 10k OCI reasonable and safe?

 

[kschachn]

https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...ited-warranties/mobil-1-limited-warranty

Quote
What the period of coverage is

The Mobil 1 limited warranty is valid for 10,000 miles or your vehicle's OEM recommended oil change interval, whichever is longer.

Additional requirements for all Mobil 1 products include:

Oils must be put in service not later than five (5) years from the date of purchase; and
an oil change must be completed every twelve (12) months.

 

[DGXR]

I always say, high-mileage oil is designed for vehicles that are showing symptoms of wear associated with high-mileage: oil leaks, oil consumption, odd noises, exhaust smoke, etc. Some people use HM oil in vehicles that don't show these symptoms, so whatever, it's their vehicle. I just see no sense in it. I suggest using non-HM oil until there is good reason to change formulations. Modern oils are very, very good.

Originally Posted by AJB0009
Same topic, let me ask a slightly different question.
A few months ago I purchased a 06 Tacoma, 2.7L. I had a M1 gift card and picked up M1 HM 5W30 for it. I did the first oil change last weekend. 113k miles now. Aside from all of the seal debate, I am wondering how long I should go before changing? It gets pretty darn hot here in NC during the summer. The truck gets babied though, I don't do any towing or hauling, I drive it very easy, no hot rodding.
With that oil and a Wix XP filter, is a 10k OCI reasonable and safe?

What does it say in your owner's manual? If you are going beyond the recommended service interval, the only way to be sure you are safe is to do a used oil analysis (UOA). Having said that... I also have a 2006 Tacoma with the 2.7. It has a very good service history so I know it's clean, and I am doing 7000-8000 oil/filter service intervals with premium filters and M1 "vanilla" 5w30. It's got 160,000 miles and runs perfect. I know that nearly any name-brand synthetic oil *can* go up to 10,000 miles, or farther. But it depends on the vehicle, driving/usage patterns, and ambient conditions. I am being a little conservative with my Tacoma because the recommended service interval is 6 months/5000 miles. Plus, synthetic oil is really cheap nowadays and most of it is very good long-lasting oil.

 

[Hogwash]

Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Hogwash
Would these levels be considered high?

No, they are not considered high but they are at the upper limit for SN/ILSAC.

Just going back to the possibility of running M1 HM 5/30 at some point down the road. But that possibility of cat damage do to high zinc levels keeps tripping me up a little. Read a few things that indicates that levels above 800 are high. But I value the opinions and facts I get from this site much more than others.

At 900, M1 HM is still rated SN/SN Plus

 

[caprice_2nv]

Originally Posted by Hogwash
Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Originally Posted by Hogwash
Would these levels be considered high?

No, they are not considered high but they are at the upper limit for SN/ILSAC.

Just going back to the possibility of running M1 HM 5/30 at some point down the road. But that possibility of cat damage do to high zinc levels keeps tripping me up a little. Read a few things that indicates that levels above 800 are high. But I value the opinions and facts I get from this site much more than others.

At 900, M1 HM is still rated SN/SN Plus


At those levels I don't think you need to worry about the cat. I'm running Mobil 1 hm 5w30 in my 76 350 Olds v8 with flat tappet camshaft and 2 cats (dual exhaust). This oil should be good enough for a stock flat low performance flat tappet camshaft plus it won't hurt the cats.

 

[mpack88]

Wonder if the 10w40 has that high zinc. I might want to try it.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Originally Posted by mpack88
Wonder if the 10w40 has that high zinc. I might want to try it.


Nope. It's in the 700ppm range.

 

[mpack88]

Well darn.

 

[SavagePatch]

Originally Posted by aquariuscsm
Originally Posted by mpack88
Wonder if the 10w40 has that high zinc. I might want to try it.


Nope. It's in the 700ppm range.


I'm running Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 CK-4/SN w/ 1200ppm Zinc in our Mazda CX-9 w/ 135k miles. I'd consider it a High Mileage Oil. No worries on my end.

 

[ka9mnx]

How are they getting away with 1200 Zn and SN?

 

[ka9mnx]

Just went to the M1 site and their information is very lacking (not like it was before). They don't give the Zn numbers so being SN/SM it's probably below 900ppm.

 

[SavagePatch]

Originally Posted by ka9mnx
How are they getting away with 1200 Zn and SN?


I think that HDEO's are forgiven when it comes to Zinc and meeting SN.

I got the 1200ppm Zinc from my UOA's.

 

[AJB0009]

Okay, let me try to keep this thread going but in a slightly different direction now. Again, aside from all of the seal swelling debate.
I picked this oil for two reasons: Having my first Toyota engine, it seems that I have heard over the years that they are prone to excessive sludge build up which can lead to premature failures and second just because it can get so hot here during the summer; on the chart on the back of the jug the regular M1 has two check marks for high temperature protection while the HM has three check marks.
Does anyone have any data or experience on those two characteristics of this oil: Does it do a better job of sludge prevention and resist high temp thermal breakdown?
Excellent data and discussions so far everyone!

 

[kschachn]

Originally Posted by AJB0009
Okay, let me try to keep this thread going but in a slightly different direction now. Again, aside from all of the seal swelling debate.
I picked this oil for two reasons: Having my first Toyota engine, it seems that I have heard over the years that they are prone to excessive sludge build up which can lead to premature failures and second just because it can get so hot here during the summer; on the chart on the back of the jug the regular M1 has two check marks for high temperature protection while the HM has three check marks.
Does anyone have any data or experience on those two characteristics of this oil: Does it do a better job of sludge prevention and resist high temp thermal breakdown?
Excellent data and discussions so far everyone!

Keep it going for what?

"Toyota engine" does not have reputation for sludge, a couple in the past did but no modern ones do. I have experience with Mobil 1 products in my supposedly sludge prone 1MZ-FE, I've posted valve train pictures here from about 150,000 miles up until about 400,000 miles. It is fine, no lethal issues.

 

[03s]

Originally Posted by ka9mnx
Just went to the M1 site and their information is very lacking (not like it was before). They don't give the Zn numbers so being SN/SM it's probably below 900ppm.

This is cut/cropped from Mobil 1 product guide rev 31.pdf

 

[Hogwash]

Ok....the debate is officially over for me. I just went back to the product guide and compared phosphorus and zinc levels between 5/30 M1 and 5/30 M1 HM. Both are at 800 and 900.

 

[tblt44]

M1 is a well known name with a big reputation but it will make your valvetrain super-noisy.

Stick with VML.

That is a opinion,

 

[ToadU]

Maxlife is one of the best HM oils available and its on every street corner where you guys are!
M1 is a well known name with a big reputation but it will make your valvetrain super-noisy.

Stick with VML.

need some documentation of this. I’ve never ever ever experienced this. I call it a wives tale. Like so many other oil tall tales around.

 

[350Rocket]

need some documentation of this. I’ve never ever ever experienced this. I call it a wives tale. Like so many other oil tall tales around.

I agree. I'm running m1 EP HM 5w30 in my truck right now and it's dead silent. I did develop a lifter tick after upgrading to a Fram Ultra (which many say this can happen on older LS engines), it went away as soon as I swapped just the filter to a Fram extra guard. I've also ran a lot of m1 (especially 0w40 FS) in my Cutlass and Caprice with no extra noise from either. The Caprice has slight valve train noise on any oil and the cutlass only if I use thicker oils like heavy 40s or xw50s, but nothing at all specific to any of the m1 oils.

 

[CJE]

Originally Posted by CJE
There is beef product in that site - but some of it is from the far end of the animal.

That site says something which is incorrect.

1. " . . . . What do the numbers in 10W-40 mean?
2. The numbers refer to the weight and thickness, or viscosity, of the oil.
3. Motor oil gets thicker when it's cold - and thinner when it heats up.
4. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, and the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperatures . . . . "

The second sentence is only half right - only the first number refers to viscosity.
The second part of the fourth sentence is incorrect.
To be correct the fourth sentence would have to have the second "viscosity" replaced with "lubricity".

Lubricity? What would that have to do with the SAE grade designation?

And the first number in a grade such as "5W" is actually a performance specification. The second number is directly a viscosity range.

I'd love to see technical references for your comments.

The low number designates the viscosity of the oil when cold. The high number indicates how the oil lubricates when hot. So a 10w40 oil has the viscosity of a 10 weight oil when cold - but lubricates as a 40 weight oil would when hot. Where is my mistake?