Mobil 1 EP good enough for non-aggressive drivers?

[4WD]

Originally Posted By: PimTac
Originally Posted By: 4WD
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Originally Posted By: Jasper8146
Have read on here somewhere that Mobil 1 has bad oil analysis results, but am wondering if those are on cars where people drive pretty hard.


UOA results are worthle,,,,,, Um, ahhh, let's be more diplomatic. UOA results do not accurately indicate the rate of engine wear. Especially between brands of oil. UOA results can show certain wear trends, and when significant changes occur, it may be time to investigate.

UOA results can accurately indicate oil viscosity problems, fuel contamination, air filter failure, remaining active acid neutralizing additive and antifreeze in the oil.

Here is a camshaft that is completely destroyed. Yet UOA results never indicated a problem. The UOA Fe number was something like 5ppm on each sample.

This has been verified by expert and reasonable posts … But I often wonder if we’d have more of them on this site without the endless trolls who other members try to deal with …






I doubt any uoa could predict a sudden failure of a engine component.

I’m sure we all knew someone who was in perfect health yet died suddenly. These things happen.


Lot’s of things are done here to “feel better” … same with me, only UOA’s is not one I care to pay for … I know I’m not pushing any lubes to the limit …

 

[OilUzer]

Originally Posted By: Gokhan
...

M1 AFE 0W-20 SN: 30 - 40% PAO, 10 - 20% GTL, 30 - 40% Group III
...
M1 EP 5W-30 SN: 20 - 30% PAO, 1 - 5% Group III
...


Gokhan,

Does M1 EP 5Wx30 have 1-5% group3? Just curious since your % does not add up to 100 like it does for M1 AFE 0Wx20.
What else is in m1 ep 5wx30 % wise?

Also do you have the % pao/grp3 for m1 ep 10wx30? I recently used that in one of our cars and after 2700 miles the oil level is still at full mark. Very impressive (noack or oil burning wise). It's the first time ever I haven't had to add any oil to this car after so many miles!

Thanks for the info.

 

[Gokhan]

Originally Posted By: OilUzer
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
...

M1 AFE 0W-20 SN: 30 - 40% PAO, 10 - 20% GTL, 30 - 40% Group III
...
M1 EP 5W-30 SN: 20 - 30% PAO, 1 - 5% Group III
...

Gokhan,

Does M1 EP 5Wx30 have 1-5% group3? Just curious since your % does not add up to 100 like it does for M1 AFE 0Wx20.
What else is in m1 ep 5wx30 % wise?

Also do you have the % pao/grp3 for m1 ep 10wx30? I recently used that in one of our cars and after 2700 miles the oil level is still at full mark. Very impressive (noack or oil burning wise). It's the first time ever I haven't had to add any oil to this car after so many miles!

Thanks for the info.

You're welcome!

All the data is directly from the ExxonMobil MSDS web site I linked; so, I'm not responsible for any missing/inaccurate/plain-absurd/etc. data.

You can look up any oil there. Decene is PAO; GTL is the branched hydrocarbon with the CAS # that ends with -69-9, and hydrotreated is Group III. Solvent-dewaxed is Group I (used as an additive solvent usually) and severely processed is Group II.

Regarding M1 EP 10W-30 SN, MSDS is showing only 1 - 5% PAO, less than the 10 - 20% for M1 10W-30 SN. Is it a typo? Or is it just Group III? I don't know. 10W-30's tend to have very low NOACK in general because of the thicker base oil. The GTL PPPP 10W-30 SN is the current NOACK champion with 4.7%. The formulation may have changed a little with the SN PLUS though.

 

[OilUzer]

Thanks, I used pppp 5Wx30 (my winter oil) prior to m1 ep 10Wx30 (summer oil). was planning on using pppp 10wx30 next time just for the heck of it and to compare ... I do my own research ever so slowly ...

 

[CarbonSteel]

Generally speaking, I believe that you would be OK to do this, though it is not advisable without running at least one UOA to check the health of the oil. I ran M1 AFE 0W-20 for 17.5K while towing in temps up to 117°F and had a TBN of 2.x and had about the same with M1 EP 0W-20. For open road, non-agressive driving, you would likely be just fine.

 

[Patman]

The problem that I have with both M1 EP and M1 AP is that it's going to cause a lot of people to just blindly do 15k or 20k intervals without UOAs to back it up. I just don't think a lot of engines can handle that type of interval, WITH ANY BRAND OF OIL. There are a lot of direct injected turbo engines out there (especially now that the new Civics come this way, and Honda sells a ton of those in North America) and I just don't believe those engines will be safe in the long run if they run such long intervals.

 

[Lethal1ty17]

Since I can never figure out how to attach a picture and have it show up properly, here is a link to M1 EP 5w20 in the Genesis Coupe that sees a lot of redline pulls and it was at 11k

https://imgur.com/77EdUqS

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Maybe try a Late Fall, early spring OCI schedule before jumping into an Annual OCI. One poor injector spray pattern, a slight misfire or somewhat gummy rings = requisite short OCI intervals.