Mobil 1 EP 5W20, 100k, Honda Jazz GE8

[weng]

Just did my first UOA. Below are the details and results. Make: Honda Jazz GE8, YOM 2008 Odo Mileage: 100,000 km Oils used: Amsoil ATM 10W30 from 1k to 10k. Thereafter Mobil 1 EP 5W20 every 10k. Oil hour for this sample: 10,000 km

Code:

Aluminum			2

Copper				1

Chromium			<1

Iron 8
Lead			<1
Tin				<1

Nickel				<1


Silicon				72
Boron				133

Sodium				4
Potassium			3
Phosphorus			708
Molybdenum			112
Magnesium			13

Calcium				2541
Zinc				826


Water				<0.1
Nitration (Abs)			14.1

Viscosity (cSt,40degC)		48

Glycol (Abs)			<0.1

Petrol (% by distillation)	2.0

Comments: All wear levels appear within acceptable limits for first sample. Silicon level (dirt/sealant material) abnormal. Water content satisfactory. Fuel dilution satisfactory. Viscosity within specified operating range. Action: Check for point of dirty entry. Resample at next recommended interval to monitor and establish wear trend. ------------------------------------------------------------- I'm quite new at this so would like to hear your comments on the results. Does it look just ok, or not bad, or pretty good? As for silicon level... i'm not sure what could be the cause. Anyway, base on the numbers alone, is there a set of "specifications" that one can compare with to judge whether it's ok or not?

 

[weng]

Sorry I can't edit the post anymore. Below is the more organised results.

Code:

Aluminum			2
Copper				1
Chromium                        <1
Iron                            8
Lead			        <1
Tin				<1
Nickel				<1

Silicon				72
Boron				133
Sodium				4
Potassium			3
Phosphorus			708
Molybdenum			112
Magnesium			13
Calcium				2541
Zinc				826

Water				<0.1
Nitration (Abs)			14.1
Viscosity (cSt,40degC)		48
Glycol (Abs)			<0.1
Petrol (% by distillation)	2.0

Comments: All wear levels appear within acceptable limits for first sample. Silicon level (dirt/sealant material) abnormal. Water content satisfactory. Fuel dilution satisfactory. Viscosity within specified operating range. Action: Check for point of dirty entry. Resample at next recommended interval to monitor and establish wear trend. ------------------------------------------------------------- I'm quite new at this so would like to hear your comments on the results. Does it look just ok, or not bad, or pretty good? As for silicon level... i'm not sure what could be the cause. Anyway, base on the numbers alone, is there a set of "specifications" that one can compare with to judge whether it's ok or not?

 

[Brons2]

Looks great, try going farther! Get a TBN from your lab next time, if possble. Does the car have an oil life monitor like the US spec Jazz (Fit) does?

 

[weng]

Originally Posted By: Brons2

Looks great, try going farther! Get a TBN from your lab next time, if possble. Does the car have an oil life monitor like the US spec Jazz (Fit) does?

Hi Brons2, the reason I asked is because you know, over here in Singapore, the culture is still thick oil (w40 and w50). People still believe that over here the climate is hot through the year and lots of start-stop driving so thicker oil gives better protection. It's only a few years ago when hypermarts started importing in quart-bottled oils which includes w30. Elsewhere off the shelves it's all w40 and w50. There are no w20 oils. The only way to get them is to go to private parallel importers. As a more modern man myself (I hope :p), I was inclined to be more rational after reading all the comments on thin oils. As such I started using w30 and eventually w20 since 2006 with my previous car. However I have never done any UOA to really show the folks here that thin oils are really ok. I have wanted to do since a long time ago but only got myself to do it at 100k mileage haha. So now I would like to know, based on this first set of results, is it safe to say that this 5w20 grade is not a problem at all for the car even at 100k? Which leads to my earlier question... from what basis are the figures judged? Any specifications (eg. Al should be less than xx, Fe should be less than yy, etc)? I just received this results via email. I also thought TBN or TAN is included as what the chemist told me. I'll check with him tomorrow. Oh... btw, over here, to many people, 100k for a car seems to be the end of the car life already, that is, the car is going to die. 100k already. Old, worn, and gotta scrap. It's a BIG thing. This is all thanks to our COE system (10-year "license" to own a car before scrapping it or renewing for another 5 or 10 years). Hence, a car is built to last only 10 years. :p

 

[dparm]

Silicon could be from driving in dusty conditions, or a bad seal on the air filter (make sure the airbox lid is seated correctly).

 

[weng]

Now that I think of it, could it be the container used to collect the oil? I actually prepared a clean mineral water bottle but the mechanic didn't collect it directly. He used another plastic flask to collect from the oil drain stream. He just cleaned it by spraying those cleaner a few rounds, then wipe dry with a dirty piece of cloth where he uses for any other stuff. I'm on stock filter all along. However during this 10k interval, I did change out to a Mugen filter for a few hundred km. Not sure if there were any effect.

 

[weng]

I just received the amended report with TBN. However I was brought to attention by a friend that I actually need TAN first in order to interpret TBN. TBN mgKOH/g --- 6.8 From this figure alone, does it tell anything or is just a meaningless number without TAN?

 

[Brons2]

Your report is outstanding, and your engine is in excellent condition. TBN is very high at 6.8, meaning there is a lot of additive power remaining. Your 10,000 kilometer run is equivalent to 6213 US miles. I would run it 10,000 miles next time - 16,093 kilometers. The car is called the Fit in the US and many users have gone over 10,000 miles on their oil changes and posted here on this website the analysis results.

 

[weng]

Thanks Brons2. I just started to read around and noticed TBN/TAN topics are in quite a blur. Different schools of thoughts! Anyway, I also called up the lab and asked about it. They told me usually they don't do TAN for petrol engines, more for gasoline engines. As for TBN, their advice is using 50% of the virgin TBN as a gauge. So now I need to find out what's the typical virgin TBN for this EP 5W20. So far I only managed to find the reading for EP 5W30 which is at 8.x. I hope the 5W20 is also around there? I don't have any spare unused oil left so if I want to do a VOA, I will have to wait till the next drain. Ohya just realised I missed your earlier question on oil life monitor. No, our local Jazz doesn't come with it. Local models here don't come with A LOT OF STUFF! grrrrr...

 

[ltslimjim]

^If TBN is still that high, you can run it down to 2-3 TBN safely according to most users here. Some push it further, but to me 30-40% of starting TBN is getting most of your money out of the more expensive extended drain type oils. Diesel(non petro aka gas fueled engines) seem to need changing sooner, before the TBN is depleted and instead look at acidic formation/levels via TAN amongst other things.