Mobil 1 10W30 - Toyota 22R-E - 5,612 OCI

[2533a]

1991 Toyota Pickup
22R-E Engine
107,627 miles
5,612 lube miles
Mobil 1 10W30
Toyota OEM Oil Filter

Driving conditions consist of ninety miles per day mainly rural two-lane highway. This sample had about six minus thirty degree starts and a couple of dozen subzero starts in total with many between minus ten and minus twenty degrees. The truck is not garaged and does not have a block heater.

Valves were adjusted on 11/10/03 and the cooling system was flushed at the same time with a switch from the green coolant to Toyota red. I changed the oil on 11/28/03 to the Mobil 1 10W30 in anticipation of the cold weather.

Previous oil used was Chevron Supreme 10W30 for the rinse cycle on a second Auto-Rx application. Prior to the Chevron and over the past ten years the truck saw Mobil Drive Clean, Havoline, and Castrol. The engine was CLEAN from what I saw when the valve cover was off.

Fe 17
Cr 0
Ni 0
Al 8
Cu 3
Pb 5
Sn 1
Si 13
Na 54
K 52
Mo 95
Sb 1
B 140
Mg 28
Ca 3171
P 799
Zn 1015

Fuel % vol. 1.5
Soot % vol. H2O Viscosity 100 C Cs. 9.2
TBN 3.77

Kudos to Terry Dyson for his read on this engine. This was the first analysis ever done on this engine, as I really want to go to an extended OCI. After questions regarding the Sodium and Potassium are resolved I hope to go some big miles in between oil changes.

As always, comments and suggestions are welcome.

[ March 09, 2004, 08:18 PM: Message edited by: 2533a ]

 

[Drew99GT]

Are you thinking maybe you have a head gasket leak or something?

 

[2533a]

quote:

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Originally posted by Drew99GT:
Are you thinking maybe you have a head gasket leak or something?

---

I hope not! (But that thought did cross my mind.) The lab flagged the Sodium and Potassium and said to resample in 3,000 miles.

 

[wulimaster]

quote:

---

Originally posted by 2533a:

quote:

---

Originally posted by Drew99GT:
Are you thinking maybe you have a head gasket leak or something?

---

I hope not! (But that thought did cross my mind.) The lab flagged the Sodium and Potassium and said to resample in 3,000 miles.

---

Probably had your timing chain cut through the timing cover into the water pump passage. Better write this name and number down just in case.

L.C. Engineering (928) 505-2501 in Lake Havasu, Arizona.


When was the last time you replaced the timing chain?
Did you notice any screeching sound coming from under the hood at a certain rpm and think it was a fan belt?

 

[TooSlick]

I agree with the previous post ...a very slow coolant leak is developing and will only get worse ....There are issues with timing chain tensioners on some of the 22-RE motors.

Tooslick

 

[2533a]

[/qb][/QUOTE]Probably had your timing chain cut through the timing cover into the water pump passage. Better write this name and number down just in case.

L.C. Engineering (928) 505-2501 in Lake Havasu, Arizona.


When was the last time you replaced the timing chain?
Did you notice any screeching sound coming from under the hood at a certain rpm and think it was a fan belt? [/QB][/QUOTE]

The timing chian has never been replaced on this engine. During the valve adjustment I saw the guides and they were intact.

There has been a screeching sound when taking some corners and a screech at startup that I thought was a fan belt.

This is starting to sound expensive!

Thanks to all for the links and advice. I guess it's time to open up the engine and take a look.

 

[wulimaster]

quote:

---

Originally posted by toyvwbenz:
The problem with the 22RE's are the plastic timing chain guides. The plastic breaks down and crumbles leaving no protection for the adjacent water jacket. This usually isn't a problem until around 150K miles but I have heard of a few at 100K. The solution is to install metal backed guides available from DOA Racing

If you were grinding into the aluminum timing chain cover, wouldn't you have more Al in your oil sample.

---

I just replaced my timing chain and guides a couple of months ago at about 110k miles and the driver side guide was completely gone. Ran Amsoil and a bypass since 13k miles.

I heard that the problem was that with other than Toyota filters you can have drainback out of the filter and on startup there isn't oil pressure to activate the tensioner. As the chain stretches, it flaps and twists on startup and snaps the guide off in pieces. This may be so since I started using the Landrover filter and going with a Mobil 1 filter. I noticed that after sitting for a few days prior to removing the filter that all the oil had drained out and the filter came off dry.

I now have metal guides from LC Engineering which look exactly like the ones at DOA Racing.

Price for a timing chain replacement without a new cover is about $900 for a 4x2 and $1200 for a 4x4 (have to drop the pumpkin to get the oil pan off.

LC has used timing covers for about $75 and new for about $165. You can also have the timing cover welded for about $40.

For about $450 you can get a double roller chain kit complete with new cover, water pump, oil pump, and metal guides from LC Engineering. This is what the RE should have had to begin with. I believe the older 20R's had double chains and metal guides from the factory.


NOTE: This is a major undertaking if you intend to do it yourself. Figure 10-12 hours of work on a 4x2 with power steering and air conditioning. Add 3 more hours to drop the pan on a 4x4.

I took the time to replace the alternator brushes, repack the clutch fan with silicon lube, and drain and replace the power steering fluid while I had it apart.

 

[Al]

As pthers heve said. This chain is the weak link of the engine. $1200 is about right. I should have gotten the metal tensioners but time didn't allow. It went 85K miles. From a practical standpoint- 5K miles/year (Truck is a '94)-I'm 58...sooooooooooooooo. Am I going to be driving this truck at the age of 70??? Don't think so.

 

[toyvwbenz]

The problem with the 22RE's are the plastic timing chain guides. The plastic breaks down and crumbles leaving no protection for the adjacent water jacket. This usually isn't a problem until around 150K miles but I have heard of a few at 100K. The solution is to install metal backed guides available from DOA Racing

If you were grinding into the aluminum timing chain cover, wouldn't you have more Al in your oil sample. I would be looking into a head gasket leak or some other source for the contamination.