Mobil 1 0w40 - Supercar or FS?

Euro 0w40 has Porsche approval and is used in all kinds of high performance applications. I wouldn’t waste time or $ sourcing the super car when you can get the euro version at any Walmart or parts store.
 
Supercar 0w40 and M1 0w40 are track oils. Either would be fine.

For something more shear stable I'd look to Amsoil, HPL or Red Line. But those are not even proven to be better. You'd have to tear down the engines to really know. UOA's are imperfect tools. Ditch B/S Labs and try Oil Analyzers.

GM also tested Mobil 1 0w40 ESP in the Corvette for 2 years.

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Thanks. I think I remembered someone posting that some race teams fill the containers with the oil they want, not the oil on the container. In today's world, nothing surprises me...<shrug>
 
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Considering the cost of your hobby/passion....oil should be the cheapest thing you need to worry about. I'd be taking the car to the track with fresh racing/track oil (xW-40 or xW-50) and then changing it after the track event to something better for the street.

HPL Bad-A$$ racing oil would be my first choice, followed by their SuperCar oil. Call Dave at HPL...they provide oils for a bunch of professional racing teams so I'm sure he can recommend something perfect for your application.

Can your oil system be converted to a dry sump? If not does anyone make a racing style oil pan with baffling and windage screens? And as others have said, an oil accumulator is a must. A good oil cooler is also probably a good idea. Do you monitor your oil temps?
 
Thanks. I think I remembered someone posting that some race teams fill the containers with the oil they want, not the oil on the container. In today's world, nothing surprises me...<shrug>
In the big leagues - they get custom blends - for example a Mobil team follows Red Bull taking many samples on site …
 
Considering the cost of your hobby/passion....oil should be the cheapest thing you need to worry about. I'd be taking the car to the track with fresh racing/track oil and then changing it after the track event to something better for the street.

HPL Bad-A$$ racing oil would be my first choice, followed by their SuperCar oil. Call Dave at HPL...they provide oils for a bunch of professional racing teams so I'm sure he can recommend something perfect for your application.

Can your oil system be converted to a dry sump? If not does anyone make a racing style oil pan with baffling windage screens? And as others have said, an oil accumulator is a must.
He left the building 5th December …
 
I doubt your problems are oil viscosity or formulation related. 800 BHP Ferrari cars use "normal" 0 and 5W-40 oils that end up as a 30 grade oil with fuel dilution and manage to run on tracks all day long. I wonder if oil starvation issues are involved in your car.

ali
 
Supercar 0w40 and M1 0w40 are track oils. Either would be fine.

For something more shear stable I'd look to Amsoil, HPL or Red Line. But those are not even proven to be better. You'd have to tear down the engines to really know. UOA's are imperfect tools. Ditch B/S Labs and try Oil Analyzers.

GM also tested Mobil 1 0w40 ESP in the Corvette for 2 years.

View attachment 249419


Porsche Cup Cars also focus on maximum HP, and recomend engine inspection/ rebuilds less than every 100 hours.

If I had to chose a Mobil 1 0W40 oil for this application (in this order)
GT 0W40
ESP X3 0W40
Supercar 0w40
FS 0W40

I would not chose any of these for your track application. As others noted definitely something with more viscocity / protection at temperature.
 
I doubt your problems are oil viscosity or formulation related. 800 BHP Ferrari cars use "normal" 0 and 5W-40 oils that end up as a 30 grade oil with fuel dilution and manage to run on tracks all day long. I wonder if oil starvation issues are involved in your car.

ali
Yes they do.
Now go compare cooling system and oil sump of Ferrari to Cadillac.
Ferrari 488 Pista has larger cooling system than my Sequoia with towing package.
 
doing HPDE with sustained oil temps north of 270F (I understand oil temp in this car is calculated, not actual)
My mustang is the same way and an easy way to get real temp readings is by installing a sandwich plate that fits between the engine and the oil filter. They’ll have a few threaded holes that you can screw temperature or pressure sensors into. You just have to check and make sure there’s enough room to screw the filter on with the added thickness from the plate.

I’ve gotten into running 50 weight oil during the spring through fall and 5w-30 in the winter.
 
OP been MIA since 12/5.

Somehow doubt that the actual oil caused the spun bearing.
It wasn't a lack of oil, I had run MidO a couple weeks before and it had 7qt in it (LF4 spec capacity).

As I said, I did a lot of stuff wrong that caused an expensive lesson to be learned - I'm trying to be better/smarter with my new engine.
 
Q: Considering the recent formula change to the base oil (Time stamp 12:30) for the 0W-40 FS, has anyone consider going to the 0W-40 Supercar since it is closer in formulation to the previous edition of the 0W-40 FS?

 
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