Mobil 1 0w40 European?

[ELS]

I have a 450cc racing ATV... turns 11k RPM... shares oil for all, engine-trans-wet clutch. And this engine is a cam/bucket setup too, friction not roller.

When I first bought it I broke it in on OEM oil but noticed that after a few hours a machine that was a really phenomenal shifter became just a great shifter. What I mean is, with fresh oil it had a super shift and a very positive and also audible "click" into the gears and that would go away in a few hours and it would just stay a slick shifter.

I tried 5w40 syn, 10w40 syn and then 15w40 diesel oil. All about the same, slightly better with each. I then switched to 15w50 Mobil 1 and was well pleased and have ran it ever since. Never a problem... and now this 2008 race quad is headed into the 2014 season and has never been rebuilt, lost any compression or anything. No one else but me runs it... and everyone else is rebuilding often.

With that said, for some reason the 15w50 gets hard to find here? I buy up when I find it, but I am starting to get tired of the hunt. So I have started to consider other oils. So after looking at some data, it looks like the 0w40 European formula might be a possible alternative... and lower my dead engine start cranking viscosity some.

But, I am scared to death to change anything... lol.

How do you think the two oils stack up to each other for my application?

I think this one really beats oil up, so I am a bit chicken! But I am tired of hunting the disappearing 15w50 and I have been doing excellent for years not paying premium for synthetic oils just because they are JASO rated...

The 0w40 seems (to me) to spec out pretty similar to 15w40 other than viscosity, and _w40 oils are fine per the manufacturer.

 

[mount]

I would stick with the 15w-50 mobil if it's been working. It seems to be more heavy-duty than the 0W-40 which is more for engines.

 

[Realtech214]

Ive seen M1 15w50 in 5gt jugs at my walmart for 25$

 

[Zaedock]

My local WalMart always has M1 15W50. It's a stout oil, I'd stick with it.

I run it in my wife's Rancher and run 20W50 Syntec in my modded old-school 400EX.

 

[GutsyGecko]

Oreielly auto parts has the quarts on sale for $6/ea.

 

[Rand]

could do the m1 10w40 motorcycle oil also

 

[901Memphis]

Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 is closer to the 15w50 than the 0w40. Try different Walmarts for different jug availability.

 

[Brent_G]

I had great luck with both klotz mx4 and Rotella 15w40 in both a 700 raptor and yfz450r. Raptor was full 727 build for flattrack that saw mx4 for almost it's whole life (350 hours) piston and jug still in spec.

Yfz was full build on e85 58hp at the rear wheels. Spent two years mx and remainder Flatt rack on a 1/2 mile track. It was built to spin and I would come into the corners a few hundred rpms from limiter. 100% Rotella and was tore down every 50 hours. Currently has 500ish hours on the original jug.

Imo the biggest thing is to change it often, I did after every 4 hours on Yfz and 15 on the raptor. Small sump get thrashed really fast.

 

[Mackelroy]

Forget viscosity staying in spec its meaningless (wear is whats important, 30 weights and lower does not bode well on cam lobes producing anything above 7,000 rpm on a routine basis for lack of film strength.

Id run the heaviest oil that functions the best, that's the two choices as far as Im concerned.

 

[ccdhowell]

According to the latest Mobil One oil specs chart, the 0w40 has 1,000 ppm zinc and 1,100 ppm phosphorus, the 15w50 has 1,200 and 1,300 respectively. On that info alone I'd recommend staying with the 15w50, it will protect the cam and buckets better and has better film strength and should provide better ring seal. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I have and race XC two different 2009 model quads that have never been rebuilt. I think either people rebuild for no reason, or their oil and change frequency needs to be reviewed. I change my oil every 3 to 4 hours on all my race quads, it comes out golden, but shifting stays good and my engines are still high on compression after 150+ hours of racing.

 

[sunruh]

i am in the middle of testing m1 0w40 right now.
maybe a while before i complete the test, but i will post the results when done

 

[Jaymus]

If it's getting hard to find locally, maybe try ordering online. If it's truly keeping you from having to rebuild your engine while your friends have been through multiple rebuilds, I wouldn't change a single thing. If you do need to change to something more easy to find, the Mobil1 10W-40 motorcycle oil would be a better choice than the 0W-40, IMO, for this application.