Mobil 1 0w40 European Oil......the new 5w30?

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Jun 13, 2006
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NJ
Hi everyone,
I was in Costco recently and I noticed that they now carry Mobil 1 0w40 European oil. It was on sale until the end of November for $23.00 for a case of six quarts.
Based upon what I have read here, it seems to be a very good oil.
Can this oil be substituted for run of mill 5w30 in engines that call for 5w30? If the engine is low mileage and in great shape, will the 0w40 harm the engine as it might be too thick?
It seems that some people here are huge fans of this European flavor of oil!


Thank you,
Zack
 
Other that the higher Calcium which is supposedly not the best for direct injected turbo engines [LSPI] why would it be harm an engine? I use it in the Wife's 2018 F350 with the gas engine and in my sons 2006 Toyota Tacoma with the 4 cyl engine .I think it is great oil but then so are any other oil from the major oil producers.
 
Yes, I have had great success running M1 0w40 (and Valvoline 0w40 or Castrol 0w40 as well) in applications calling for 5w30 to include a Ford, Dodge, Chevy, Mercedes, and Audi.

I would only caution against using it in an application in which 0w/5w-20 is specified (and perhaps 5w30 is permitted) as it works but is not that great. It does work well as a makeup oil though.
 
My Ford 4.2 V6 was spec'd 5W30 in 1997 when this engine came out. In 2000 Ford spec'd/back spec'd 5W20 for CAFE reasons, yet the engines clearances and tolerances never changed from 1997 until its last year of production in 2008.
I have used Euro Castrol 0W40 in my engine a few times before without any problems. I might use it again when my current Amsoil OCI is complete.
I heard some members state that the Euro Castrol 0W40 will ruin American made catalytic converters. Is this true? :unsure:
 
I have become a big fan of M1 European 0W-40. My first experience with it was in a SL550 that I used to drive. I now use it in my E350. And since having it on hand, I've started using it in my lawn mower. It really made the mower run much quieter. Next week I'll be getting my snow blower ready for winter, and M1 European 0W-40 will be going in it also.

I would have absolutely no hesitation in using 0W-40 anywhere that 5W-30 is called out, and personally feel that, at least in the climate I live in, it would be a much better choice.
 
At ~100k … switched a Cruze 1.4T from 5w30 to M1 0w40 … ran great & traded at 145k …
 
Very good oil but also one of the highest saps oils for the passenger market.
That could be true. Though, I really don't know for sure.

Here are the Sulphated Ash Phosphorus Sulphur (SAPS) content percentages from their respective product description sheets.

Mobil 1 FS 0W-40: Ash, Sulfated, mass%, ASTM D874 1.34
Castrol Edge Euro 0W-40:
Ash, Sulphated ASTM, D874, % wt 1.13
Valvoline Euro FS 0W-40: Ash, Sulphated ASTM, D874, % wt Unknown.

I'm sure there are others making Euro 0W-40 oils as well...
 
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Hi everyone,
I was in Costco recently and I noticed that they now carry Mobil 1 0w40 European oil. It was on sale until the end of November for $23.00 for a case of six quarts.
Based upon what I have read here, it seems to be a very good oil.
Can this oil be substituted for run of mill 5w30 in engines that call for 5w30? If the engine is low mileage and in great shape, will the 0w40 harm the engine as it might be too thick?
It seems that some people here are huge fans of this European flavor of oil!


Thank you,
Zack
Well it likely doesn't meet the spec for you vehicle. What problems are you having that you would want a thicker oil?
Do you have a poorly designed engine that doesn't run on mid/low saps 5W30 ILSAC fluids?

Caution: the hydraulic VVTi mechanism typically require a certain viscosity too operate in a specific range**. Other than that, and maybe HLA bleed-down rates, a bit more viscous lubricant will increase oil temps and contribute to power losses due to increased viscous "drag".

A higher oil pressure at any specific rpm on a fully warm engine will retard intake cam farther than the target parameter, likely reducing low rpm torque. Certainly, coupled to an AT, this can have a cascading deleterious effect on power, mileage and emissions.

This might just be a try and see "experiment". You can be the judge of any performance change good or bad.

It's a darn good oi, l as are most all of the 229.5x, A40 , ACEA A3 oils
 
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Great oil, but $23 for 6 quarts is not ground shattering price. Few days ago Walmart had the same oil in 5 quart jug for $19.97
 
A higher oil pressure at any specific rpm on a fully warm engine will retard intake cam farther than the target parameter, likely reducing low rpm torque. Certainly, coupled to an AT, this can have a cascading deleterious effect on power, mileage and emissions.

Don't most engines have variable pressure pumps now?
 
Well it likely doesn't meet the spec for you vehicle. What problems are you having that you would want a thicker oil?
Do you have a poorly designed engine that doesn't run on mid/low saps 5W30 ILSAC fluids?

Caution: the hydraulic VVTi mechanism typically require a certain viscosity too operate in a specific range**. Other than that, and maybe HLA bleed-down rates, a bit more viscous lubricant will increase oil temps and contribute to power losses due to increased viscous "drag".

A higher oil pressure at any specific rpm on a fully warm engine will retard intake cam farther than the target parameter, likely reducing low rpm torque. Certainly, coupled to an AT, this can have a cascading deleterious effect on power, mileage and emissions.

This might just be a try and see "experiment". You can be the judge of any performance change good or bad.

It's a darn good oi, l as are most all of the 229.5x, A40 , ACEA A3 oils

I don't know where you read that but it is for the most part a myth. Oil pressure is controlled by the pumps pressure relief valve, it is not just going to keep going up with no end in sight. The difference in pressure may be negligible between 5w30 and 0w40 eg Redline 5w30 has an HTHS of 3.7 and Mobil 1 0w40 3.6 last time I looked.
 
I don't know where you read that but it is for the most part a myth. Oil pressure is controlled by the pumps pressure relief valve, it is not just going to keep going up with no end in sight. The difference in pressure may be negligible between 5w30 and 0w40 eg Redline 5w30 has an HTHS of 3.7 and Mobil 1 0w40 3.6 last time I looked.
I didnt read it I've seen it, tried it and felt it on a few engines, Toyota, Nissan, Subaru (FB20) and VW (dealer accidentally)

My recent Honda had VTEC, so that is immune. as the cam position/timing isnt modulated.

I'm no fan of ILSAC oil and I've tried going up a step in HTHS and viscosity on a few engines.

Engines are typically NOT on their bypass at 2500 rpm fully warmed, the median of the VVT operation I was discussing.

Trav, Would you agree to that point?

- Ken
 
$23 for 6 quarts is around 16 cents cheaper per quart than the WM price of $19.97 for 5 quarts.
Ha-HA! Math wins over "Feelings" :)

I always tell women buying those pints of "fake" gourmet ice cream if they would pay
17 dollars for a 1/2 gallon of Ice Cream.

They reply, "Who makes that? That's insane !"

And I reply, "the stuff you just put in your basket!"

And they say, "well I'm not buying a 1/2 gallon, just a pint."

GROAN !

Then I pick up my Friendly's Chocolate Almond Chip for $3.19 for 1.5qts
- that works out to only 1.06 a pint

A Frugal Scot, I am :)
 
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