Mobil 1 0W40 Euro, 7,000mi, '08 Porsche Cayman S

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This UOA is for a 2008 Porsche 987 Cayman S with a 3.4L M97 flat six engine running Mobil 1 0W40 Euro. Vehicle is daily driven with a 50/50 mix of city/hwy driving located in the southeast (TN). occasional blasts of spirited driving. Zero (0) oil consumption.

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Its not the first time an M1 0w40 became a 30-weight in that many miles. You might have less VII shearing with Castrol 0w40 (walmart) or Pennzoil 0w40.
Great TBN left over.
Copper & lead means a little extra bearing wear, although it may be hard to correct that. It is possible one could put in a bottle of LiquiMoly Ceratec, which has HBN & moly, to embed into the babbit layer of the bearings. Might work!
 
The more and more I read these Mobil UOAs the less and less I like it. Makes me wonder exactly what we are paying a premium for?

Before anyone gets upset, I am currently running this exact same oil in my 2008 Yamaha Vector snowmobile, and I have 2, 4.4 ltr jugs remaining.
 
Does "silicon" mean dirt in the oil?
Is the iron number of concern?

How so is Mobil1 0W-40 (my oil) deficient? No super science needed here. Are there holes in the formula?
Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Does "silicon" mean dirt in the oil?
Is the iron number of concern?

How so is Mobil1 0W-40 (my oil) deficient? No super science needed here. Are there holes in the formula?
Thanks


Silicon can point to dirt (silica) or sealants (silicone). The 7ppm number featured in this UOA isn't overly high however.
 
Originally Posted By: irv
The more and more I read these Mobil UOAs the less and less I like it. Makes me wonder exactly what we are paying a premium for?

Before anyone gets upset, I am currently running this exact same oil in my 2008 Yamaha Vector snowmobile, and I have 2, 4.4 ltr jugs remaining.


I always thought the "euro version" of any oil as a less aggressive add-pack to comply with their spes, and therefore less gravitas. Amsoil agrees with that, when I talked to them on it.
 
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Originally Posted By: irv
The more and more I read these Mobil UOAs the less and less I like it. Makes me wonder exactly what we are paying a premium for?

Before anyone gets upset, I am currently running this exact same oil in my 2008 Yamaha Vector snowmobile, and I have 2, 4.4 ltr jugs remaining.


I always thought the "euro version" of any oil as a less aggressive add-pack to comply with their spes, and therefore less gravitas. Amsoil agrees with that, when I talked to them on it.


I have heard the opposite actually and the main reason I use it, and have had used it in my snowmobile was for the added/more ZDDP that I was told it had compared to the regular Mobil syn oils.

(I'll let someone like Overkill correct me if I am wrong as I am sure he knows for sure)

I believe it was this thread, or maybe the TY4stroke within, that I heard about the extra ZDDP?
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/1870614/1
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Mainia
Originally Posted By: irv
The more and more I read these Mobil UOAs the less and less I like it. Makes me wonder exactly what we are paying a premium for?

Before anyone gets upset, I am currently running this exact same oil in my 2008 Yamaha Vector snowmobile, and I have 2, 4.4 ltr jugs remaining.


I always thought the "euro version" of any oil as a less aggressive add-pack to comply with their spes, and therefore less gravitas. Amsoil agrees with that, when I talked to them on it.


No, compared to a typical Energy Conserving PCMO, the Euro oils have significantly higher levels of AW additives. Now, an oil that doesn't carry SN like AMSOIL or Redline will have even higher levels, but from what's available off the shelf at your typical parts store or Walmart, the Euro oils are more robust than the typical offerings, particularly when we are talking about full-SAPS products like M1 0w-40, Castrol 0w-40...etc.
 
Mobil 1 0W-40’s additive package has a high concentration of metallic additives, as indicated by UOAs/VOAs and the sulfated ash test result being 1.34.

The amount of lead is a little higher than I’d like to see in a 7000 mile OCI with those reasonable driving habits. It doesn’t warrant panic, in my opinion, but is something I’d want to see if I could improve on by trying a different oil.
 
Originally Posted By: Kira
Does "silicon" mean dirt in the oil? Is the iron number of concern? How so is Mobil1 0W-40 (my oil) deficient? No super science needed here. Are there holes in the formula?
when silicone is below about 10 ppm, that is about the amount in a VOA, from Anti-Foam additives, not dirt. North of 20 ppm and that usually means extra sandy dirt is getting in, unless the engine is new-ish, which means the silicone rubber in the seals are still shedding.
As for the iron, it is right at the Universal Average for this engine (per mile), so no problem.
M1 0w40 is often seen losing its VII chemicals too easily, lowering the viscosity too much.
 
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