Mobil 1 0W-40 abuse

Status
Not open for further replies.
None of this would be any cause for concern if folks were willing to go back to reasonable change intervals.

So what if it thins out by 8000 miles?
Other then a tight range, thick oil , pure hiway cross country driving, I would never run above 6k.
Ever!

Actually, since most of my driving is in town, I keep it between 3-3.5k miles.

And I don't see why anyone would extend beyond that, there really is no good reason to extend intervals any longer.

The expense of oil changes is minuscule, compared to total car ownership costs and whether you do oil changes every 2000, 3000, or 5000 miles wouldn't make any noticable diference.
So why bother extending?

Fred...
smile.gif
 
"The thickening effect of oxidation/nitration tends to offset the shearing of the VI modifier. This behavior is well understood - I see it all the time." Too Slick

I'm running this oil (0-40) in a turbo. Previous analyses for this turbo didn't seem to reveal much shearing with Mobil 1 10-30. Amsoil 0-30 got beat up quick in the turbo and a second vehicle.

In a previous posting as I recall "initial thinning, followed by thickening due to oxidation/nitration, doesn't contribute to optimum lubrication, it would be better to have an oil that stayed in grade for the whole drain interval." (a previous Too Slick post?)

The temperature specific recommendations for this turbo are 5-30, 10-30, 5-40, or a 15-40 (only for severe conditions such as towing in hot weather) etc. I guess if 0-40 sheared down a bit to a near 30 weight it would be okay, at least for non-severe service. But after say 5K now beginning to start the thinning/thickening cycle it doesn't seem that it will be the greatest for protection beyond that mileage. Comments?
 
quote:

Originally posted by palmerwmd:
None of this would be any cause for concern if folks were willing to go back to reasonable change intervals.

So what if it thins out by 8000 miles?
Other then a tight range, thick oil , pure hiway cross country driving, I would never run above 6k.
Ever!

Actually, since most of my driving is in town, I keep it between 3-3.5k miles.

And I don't see why anyone would extend beyond that, there really is no good reason to extend intervals any longer.

The expense of oil changes is minuscule, compared to total car ownership costs and whether you do oil changes every 2000, 3000, or 5000 miles wouldn't make any noticable diference.
So why bother extending?

Fred...
smile.gif


Oil and filter companies must love people like you. Don't forget that we live in North America where we take our non renewable resources for granted because they are cheap compared to the rest of the world. If you had to pay $10 for a quart of oil and $2 for a LITRE of gasoline your attitude would change mighty quick.
 
I don't see the harm of extended changes - Hey my oil analysis says my oil is great at 10K miles and my car has almost 240,000 miles on it...so how whacked am I? I get more time to hang out here..

Now there was that one guy...new car went 15K on first oil....not so smart.
 
Sorry I missed the abuse. The only 0W40 M1 stuff I've seen lately has been positive compared to 5/10W30 results. Somewhere here somebody with a Merc posted his results and from memory it ran 13,000 miles, was running in, and he floggeed it at high speed etc. I think the results surprised many as at that time Mobil and M1 was about as popular as Bin Lager or the devil incarnate! Will never forget my first oil seminar when i gave the presenter (now good friend Ron) some M1 TS 0W40 to Timken test at the end of proceedings. The audience laughed at me and my almost colourless 'water'. The laughter quickly died when it blew away any oil he'd seen in 30yrs playing with oils by a large margin, in fact we snapped the bearing shaft clean off at around 150lbs pressure and conseqently burnt the hotels carpet (yes we were ejected). IMO there are few oils to match it, its readily available worldwide and at a reasonable price. You can't ask for much more than that?
 
My 4Runner still sounded like a coffee can full of ball bearings running the 0W-40.

Still, it had 138,000km of 20W-50 before I bought it and started playing.
 
quote:

Originally posted by palmerwmd:
None of this would be any cause for concern if folks were willing to go back to reasonable change intervals.

So what if it thins out by 8000 miles?
Other then a tight range, thick oil , pure hiway cross country driving, I would never run above 6k.
Ever!

Actually, since most of my driving is in town, I keep it between 3-3.5k miles.

And I don't see why anyone would extend beyond that, there really is no good reason to extend intervals any longer.

The expense of oil changes is minuscule, compared to total car ownership costs and whether you do oil changes every 2000, 3000, or 5000 miles wouldn't make any noticable diference.
So why bother extending?

Fred...
smile.gif


Why bother extending? Because we can!
smile.gif
Seriously though, with the information we get via oil analysis, we can safely extend our intervals to the point where we know we are not causing harm. Just look at Stuart H's recent 9k analysis on BobZoil (Schaeffer Supreme) and that report looked incredible, better than a dino oil at 3k! He could easily make 10k his interval. So based on that knowledge, why would he want to waste money doing 3x as many oil changes?


But I do see your point, if someone is using 0w40 in a hard driven car, and they find it thins out in 8000miles to the point where it might be too thin, then they should step back to 6k, and see if the wear/1000 miles gets better. One of the reasons many of us do oil analysis is not only to find the right combo of oil/filter/additives to give us the lowest wear, but also to find the right oil change interval that isn't too often, but often enough. The 3k oil change may be necessary on 5w30 conventional oil, or with Toyota sludge monkeys, but with most other oils and driving habits, 3k is overkill.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Patman:
Originally posted by palmerwmd:
[qb] .
But I do see your point, if someone is using 0w40 in a hard driven car, and they find it thins out in 8000miles to the point where it might be too thin, then they should step back to 6k,
By 8,000 miles I'll need to have added a qrt. and if it appears a higher viscosity is needed I'll just top off with 15w-50. That should take care of that I'd think.
 
I think we need to keep in mind what "enough" protection really is. I liked what dagmando said in another thread, about the difference between when we think an oil is trashed based on hyper-scrutiny of UOAs, & when it really is trashed to the point where it's no longer providing enough protection. If we start out with 5x more protection than "enough," & we degrade down to 1x or 2x more than "enough," then why are we concerned? Why do you want to throw out your oil if it still has 3x or 4x more protection than you need? To look at it another way, do you replace tires & brakes when they're only half way thru their lifespans? These are life-saving components, but how many of us wait until the tires reach the wear bars, or the brakes squeal against the wear indicators before replacing them?

I guess I'm also trying to reconcile the implications that a thick 30wt is an "extra effort" by a manufacturer, while a thin 40wt is a "weak attempt" by another. What I mean is, it takes more effort to go those few extra cSt points, & then it's simply a classification technicality which separates the two. They're all just points along a sliding scale, divided up for a buying public which is "too dumb" to know what the numbers mean, right?

Jay, I think they run the oil thru an injector to accelerate the shearing, since it would take so long otherwise.

RobY & Terry, while I agree with Terry that price is a necessary factor in product developement decisions (we couldn't afford cars otherwise), I also agree with RobY in his assessment of manufacturer's oil choice in this case. A car maker using 0W-40 is saying, "We choose an oil which is only possible as a fully synthetic variety." The owner can't get the car home & say, "Hmmm, I think this T-Rex Brand 0W-40 conventional oil will work just as well as their UberStrasse Brand full syn," because you can't get a 0W-40 in a dino oil. Also, I would think Mobil has other, less expensive (ie, higher volume) full syns for a manufacturer to use if price were the main deciding factor.

Ted, I'm really curious to see what it does after 10k miles. The Tacoma did exactly as you'd expect, shearing & then thickening back up. But Pablo's S2k 20W-50 kept shearing, & now nicrfe1370's S2k 20W-50 post seems to show the same trend with only half the miles. This is one of the better oils available, at $9.05/qt, & only has a 30 pt vis spread. I'm wondering if my Saab turbo will continue to pummel the oil like the Volvo & Subaru turbos did.

palmerwmd, as others have said, I'd like to reduce my costs & time spent doing oil changes. If there's an oil that will help me in this, I'm interested. It's the same reason why people buy power tools, dishwashers & microwave ovens: it's cheaper & easier in the long run. But the biggest reason for me was conservation of resources. Sure, I hated the inconvenience of having to change the oil in one of the cars every 6 weeks, but all the waste was just killing me.

Bill J, I think you're right, & I'd like to see more UOAs on 8k-12k mile intervals for some of the low-spread (20-30 pt), higher HT/HS (WAG: above 3.3?) oils. My questions are similar, in that I'm curious how well an oil's protecting if it starts its thickening cycle very early in its lifespan, or if it doesn't thicken at all during an extended interval.

Thanks to all for the thoughts & comments.
 
New member slowlane and I'm glad I found this site. There is a lot of excellent info, excellent discussions on this site, good site guys.
I've used M1 15w/50 since 4000 miles and now I have 95,000 miles on a 92 MB 400E V8 and I was considering changing my oil weight in my car from M1 15w/50 to the new M1 0w/40. I thought the new 0/40 would be a better overall oil, better start up, lubricating, mpg, etc. Then I’ve read “Greg Netzner”, discussion about M1 0w/40 oil thinning out to much, which actually lead me to believe that I should change to the M1 0w-40, since one of the heavier oils thin out by 35.9%, any thoughts about my switching oil wt?
I also read in the forum on switching brands, my repair shop now uses Castrol 5w/50 and suggested I switch to Castrol stating its a much better oil than Mobbil 1? I'm not sure why or if there is truth to this, but I've heard in several shops,dealers, and I've been told in the last year or so that Mobil 1 is not the leader and does not have a good synthetic oil anymore. I need educated, slowlane
 
quote:

Originally posted by Brellaum:


It has a lesser additive package than the 10/30 so I do believe it rely's a bit more on Esters intstead of VII's than it's siblings the 10/30 and 5/30 .


It was my understanding that Mobil 1 5w/10w30 do not use any VI improvers. the UOA results tend to bear this out. if anything the 0w40 shearing "problems" are caused by the VI improvers used by Mobil to achieve this viscosity spread. I use M1 10w30 precisely becuase I don't want to deal with oil shear in long changes (10k+).
 
Slowlane, if you've been using the 15-50 with great success, why change? If you wish, you may use the 0-40 without problems as it is still a very good oil...don't worry too much about the supposed "thinning" concerns writen about here...both above grades are A3 rated which is all that matters in your application.

As far as Castrol Syntec 5-50. You can safely try this product as I have in my BMW. I have tried the above 2 oils and the Syntec has proven better in my application due to severe winter conditions over the 15-50, increased fuel economy over the 15-50, and drastically decreased consumption over either. In addition, I feel it has provided more cleaning power than either grades of Mobil. I will continue with Syntec's 5-50.
 
Eiron are you useing UOA to see how the oils are protecting in your application? I ask because I can not phathom puting a 0W40 in anything with a turbo charger! Have you tried M1 15W50? The M1 15W50 and the Delvac 5W40 are much more shear stable!All of the VII's are not helping anything in terms of lubricity. You might also try Redlines oils. Redline survives the high heat and pressures of forced induction much better. Redline also does a much better job of keeping the oil lines clean and free of coak(sp). As soon as my 2nd treatment of auto-rx is done I will be doing a long drain 10,000 mile test of redline 5W40 in a NA Lasber. I have been dying to add some more redline reports to the data base for the group!!
 
When M1 changed their formula to the tri-synthetic, and I changed oil using M1-tri, I started the engine, and it sounded like it had no oil in the engine. I actually shut down the engine to see if I forgot to add the oil. Even today my engine after an oil change starts up nosier. I'm just a little concerned about switching brands,(old thinking-DR. T) but the consensus of the forum on changing brands, there should be no problems. Would it be wise if I switch to change the oil/f again after 1000 or so miles?

Or, whst is auto-rx-"my 2nd treatment of auto-rx is done,JohnBrowning "
slowlane
 
Slowlane, I have used Mobil 1 0w-40 in a 1997 BMW 318i and in the past 1,000 miles I have not had to add any oil. I can feel that the car starts more quickly on a cold day (40 degrees F) when compared to Pennzoil 15w-40. The BMW has about 70,000 miles. I do think that with your MB with 95,000 miles that the Castrol Syntec 5w-50 Might be the better oil to use. I do think that in cold weather you will notice faster starting and better fuel economy with a thinner oil (either 0w-40 or 5w-50). If you don't live in a very cold climate then I would see little advantage to switching to the 0w-40 grade. You may notice higher oil consumption with a much thinner oil (0w-40).

I don't think that Castrol Syntec is better than Mobil 1 synthetic oil in general but I don't really like the 15w-50 grade. It just seems to me that there are very few cars that need an oil that thick. Also like Dr. T has said the Castrol Syntec 5w-50 does meet the ACEA spec of A3 and it also meets the B3-98 spec for diesels.

[ June 02, 2003, 08:12 PM: Message edited by: Sin City ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
Eiron are you useing UOA to see how the oils are protecting in your application? I ask because I can not phathom puting a 0W40 in anything with a turbo charger! Have you tried M1 15W50? The M1 15W50 and the Delvac 5W40 are much more shear stable!All of the VII's are not helping anything in terms of lubricity. ...

Hi JohnBrowning,

I've only had the 0W-40 in this engine for less than 4k miles, so another 1k & I'll pull the first UOA. The 0W-40 seems to be the "hot ticket" right now for turbos, but I think most folks are switching over from xW-30s rather than xW-50s. If I were in a slightly warmer winter area I'd run the 15W-50, but it only gets changed once a year & I don't want my wife to have any starting problems in the dead-of-winter. (It got down to -6*F this past winter, & I'm running the 15W-50 in my N/A Saab year-round, but I'm usually riding my bike when it's sub-freezing.) I also tried to get the D1 5W-40, but the only dealers in my area are truck stops 50+ miles away, & they're not making any deals on the price at $30/gal. I'm seriously thinking of mixing 25%-50% 15W-50 with my next change of 0W-40, just to see what it does over 10k miles.

-Greg
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top