Mobil 1 0w-40 // 3,100 miles // 2002 BMW 525i

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I just purchased a 2002 BMW 525i wagon (2.5L M54 motor / manual transmission) with 134,600 miles on it. It was reasonably well maintained, but from what I could tell from CARFAX and talking to the local BMW dealer where it was serviced, I have reason to believe the previous owner maintained the engine using BMW's recommended 15,000 OCI.

Anytime I pick up a BMW (this is #5), I always freshen the fluids, filters, and spark plugs. I did notice a slight amount of sludge, along with the typical BMW red varnish, on the oil fill cap. Because it was winter (Jan - Apr for this OCI), I decided to go with Mobil 0w-40. Now that it has warmed up, I am using M1 10w-40 HM in an attempt to clean out any remaining sludge.

Anyway, I sent in a UOA sample of the M1 0w40 to Blackstone. The results surprised me, and I'm interested to get thoughts and opinions from BITOG'ers. My iron reading was fairly high, my fuel dilution was nearly 3%, and the oil sheared to a not very thick 30 weight...all in about 3,100mi. My driving habits during this UOA were daily cold starts (temps between 5-20F) and regular trips of less than 5mi. The engine was at operating temp when I took this sample, so the fact that fuel was that high surprises me.

Below are the results, I welcome any comments.

==================================

Blackstone Comments: Universal averages show normal wear for the BMW 2.5L engine after ~7,000 miles on the oil. Considering your oil run was shorter than average, the extra iron in this oil is a little unusual, but since you don't know how this engine was run prior to your purchase, we're inclined to wait until we see another sample to determine if the iron is concerning. The fuel can be the result of something operational, like starting the engine, or idling, and while it may have caused the low viscosity, we doubt it's a problem. Check back in 3,000 miles. No dirt or coolant found.

Element --- my sample PPM --- Univ. Avg @ 7,000mi

Aluminum --- 3 --- 3
Chromium --- 0 --- 0
Iron --- 31 --- 12
Copper --- 8 --- 9
Lead --- 4 --- 4
Tin --- 4 --- 4
Moly --- 91 --- 76
Nickel --- 1 --- 0
Mag --- 1 --- 2
Silver, Ti, Potassium --- 0
Boron --- 136 --- 53
Silicon --- 7 --- 4
Calcium --- 2621 --- 2341
Phos --- 897 --- 784
Zinc --- 1013 --- 950

SUS @ 210F --- 64.9
cSt @ 100C --- 11.58 (30 weight)
Flashpoint (F) --- 320 --- >375F
Fuel % --- 2.8%

Antifreeze --- 0
Water --- 0
Insolubles --- 0.3
 
Originally Posted By: Matt_N
Anyway, I sent in a UOA sample of the M1 0w40 to Blackstone. The results surprised me, and I'm interested to get thoughts and opinions from BITOG'ers. My iron reading was fairly high, my fuel dilution was nearly 3%, and the oil sheared to a not very thick 30 weight...all in about 3,100mi. My driving habits during this UOA were daily cold starts (temps between 5-20F) and regular trips of less than 5mi.

Short trips combined with winter weather will do this to you. These engines have large oil sumps and take a long time to reach operating temp (I mean oil temp, not water temp gauge that goes to 12 o'clock fairly quickly) when it's cold outside.

Keep an eye on it. Do another UOA over summer and see if there's any change. And do take this car out for a longer drive now and then and let it clear its throat, if you know what I mean.
 
"regular trips of less than 5mi."

+1 with Quattro Pete - he explains it...the oil won't get rid of either fuel (from running rich during open-loop warm up) or water vapor (combustion byproduct) unless the oil gets to temp and stays there for a while. Your driving = severe service.
 
Cold weather/short trips will hurt any cars engine especially if you don't allow a warm up.. I suggest you shorten your OCI in the winter, and report back when you get the OCI from the M1 10w40 hopefully it was just a fluke..
 
You may even have an injector either leaking or partialy clogged causing the excess fuel dilution which will cause higher metal numbers. Notice the low flash point indicating a lot of fuel in the oil. Just a thought. If so, maybe have a complete fuel injection service performed. Or even consider having the injectors removed and cleaned and tested.
 
Just drive your car for at least an hour once a week. The long hot drive will get your oil up to Operating Temp and burn off moisture and excess fuel.
 
I have a very similar report in here somewhere from my 02 325Ci from a winter's worth of commuting, only about 2 miles each way.

IIRC, my Fe was about 27. I didn't have that fuel dilution, though.
 
I have a 325ci with 125000 miles. Been using a mix of 10W30HM and 10W40HM for some time, have a couple of blackstone analysis to go with. I do get to drive it to temp, plus in SoCal it has a chance to warm up pretty well. My readings have been excellent, and I have no desire whatsoever to change oil; I do change at 8-9K miles which seems to be a little overkill, but its cheap insurance. I think if I lived in cold country I would use 10W30HM in the winter.
Mike
 
Originally Posted By: Mike Thompson
I have a 325ci with 125000 miles. Been using a mix of 10W30HM and 10W40HM for some time,

Any reason why you're adding the 10w-40 into the mix? Is it M1 HM? If so, M1 HM 10w-30 has a high enough HT/HS that it doesn't really need mixing, IMO.

I'm asking as I'm considering running M1 HM in the future as well...
 
This car gets well driven, and the temps here are close to 100 in the summer, even spring it gets up to 90's. Since the BMW spec oil is not only high HTHS, but also very close to a 40 weight, I mix for that reason. 10W30 and 10W40 are both M1 HM oils. Also since it takes 7 qts +, it is easy to mix a jug of 30 with a couple qts. 40. Also have a 528i that has 190K miles at this point, which my son drives, and it also gets driven fairly hard. I did a couple lab analysis on each and am satisfied that the car is happy on this regime. The iron is typically under 10ppm, everything else trace. As I said, I would be happy to use straight 10W30 if it were a cooler climate. (I do use that for the winter change.)
Mike
 
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