Mobil 1 0w-20 EP 7.4k mil; Acura RDX 2020

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Thats for Honda accord 2.0t engine sold in Europe? Unfortunately, Acura RDX is made solely for North America and the manual lists one oil. This is unfortunate when dealing with bearcats that want to denny warran

Thats for Honda accord 2.0t engine sold in Europe? Unfortunately, Acura RDX is made solely for North America and the manual lists one oil. This is unfortunate when dealing with bearcats that want to denny warranty.
Do as you wish as far as viscosity. I run 5/40 in mine. No issues.
 
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Thats for Honda accord 2.0t engine sold in Europe? Unfortunately, Acura RDX is made solely for North America and the manual lists one oil. This is unfortunate when dealing with bearcats that want to denny warranty.
I don't know if you know, that same Acura engine (Honda is sold as Honda in Japan. Acura is a north American thing. Acura NSX here. Japan Honda NSX, Acura MDX is Honda MDX around the world. Acura TSX,
Is Japans Honda Accord. All the same engine internals. Now Acura here uses a different head with larger valves, injectors and different ECM tuning. An engine only sees the xxW in terms of pump ability when it's cold. Once the oil is at operating temp it wouldn't matter if you had a 40 or 50 wt. With a 40 viscosity hot, your oil psi at idle will increase 5 or 6 psi which is a good thing
 
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I would run a 040 or 5:40 you're not going to have an engine failure. At least not cause from lubrication. Is the winner weight
Rating that determines pump ability. You could run a 0.50 and be totally fine. Or even a 5:50 if you care too

I don't disagree, but since he doesn't want to even run a 30 wt I figured maybe he'd go for the mix.
 

tolian21

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I don't disagree, but since he doesn't want to even run a 30 wt I figured maybe he'd go for the mix.
I will run 5w30 in between, maybe will even mix. After warranty is over its 5w30. I think more important is to change oil sooner
 
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Car driven 90% highway with 40-50min each time. Followed OLM in a car. Mobil1 0w-20 EP. (Report says ESP, but its a typo).
7400 miles and about 9 month.
This is pretty bad with fuel dilution 4%. My strategy is to cut OCI in half.
I think I would ignore the manual on this one and move up to an xw30. Seems like the fuel dilution is thinning the oil too much and accelerating wear.
Just my opinion
 
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Why does everybody say stick to OEM? OEM is only a recommendation not a mandate. If you ran a 0.40 and you had an engine failure they would have to prove that 040 cost engine failure. That means they would have to run in uoa on the oil to determine the viscosity. At least on a Honda engine you'll never see an engine failure caused from a 040. They recommend these viscosities overseas.
Also with his fuel dilution a light xw30 like pp would probably be at or mear anxw20 pretty soon anyway
 
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Also with his fuel dilution a light xw30 like pp would probably be at or mear anxw20 pretty soon anyway
Probably. 0/40 or 5/40 just give you more time. That's what I run in my Acura 3.5L. Either one, both start fine with that weight and cold morning at 0 or -5 the coldest it ever gets
 
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Viscosity is low due to fuel, and AL is high. Bearings on that engine will be AL, so the low viscosity is increasing bearing wear. Definetly shorten OCI…I’d say try a 30-weight, but being under warranty stick to OEM grade.
It's funny how owners stick to thin oil per OEM requirements, then sometime after 60k (most common power train warranty mileage) 💥 BOOM you end up with a worn engine. It's like doing your best to save OEM money and neglect the engine 🤣
 

tolian21

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It's funny how owners stick to thin oil per OEM requirements, then sometime after 60k (most common power train warranty mileage) 💥 BOOM you end up with a worn engine. It's like doing your best to save OEM money and neglect the engine 🤣
The problem is fuel dilution, not thin vs thick oils. The way to fight fuel dilution is more frequent oil changes, the thicker viscosity is not a real solution to high dilution.
 
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The problem is fuel dilution, not thin vs thick oils. The way to fight fuel dilution is more frequent oil changes, the thicker viscosity is not a real solution to high dilution.

The problem with fuel dilution is that, even after an oil change, dilution levels seem to rapidly creep up to an equilibrium level. As we’ve seen lots of low-mileage UOAs with considerable fuel dilution, more frequent changes aren’t a bad thing but they aren’t a sure cure, either. On the other hand, a more viscous engine oil stay in the OEM grade viscosity despite fuel dilution.

Or maybe none of this matters at all.
 

tolian21

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The problem with fuel dilution is that, even after an oil change, dilution levels seem to rapidly creep up to an equilibrium level. As we’ve seen lots of low-mileage UOAs with considerable fuel dilution, more frequent changes aren’t a bad thing but they aren’t a sure cure, either. On the other hand, a more viscous engine oil stay in the OEM grade viscosity despite fuel dilution.

Or maybe none of this matters at all.

When you have 4%+ fuel in oil, not sure higher viscosity will help much with protecting engine from excessive wear. Thicker viscosity might be an attempt to mitigate viscosity drop due to dilution, but I am not sure if its significant help. More frequent oil changes should reduce oil dilution, my next UOA will be with 3-4k OCI, will be interesting to see, same oil and same lab
 
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i have the same engine but in my 19 civic type-r

5w-30 is the way to go..id give it a shot

 

tolian21

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i have the same engine but in my 19 civic type-r

5w-30 is the way to go..id give it a shot



I wonder why my iron was high(27ppm), some say its because engine is still relatively new, but you have similar milage and aluminum is lower. Granted your OCI is half mine, still seems high. Maybe because I dont drive it hard enough so its still breaking in... 5w-30 is a good choice, and short OCI.
 
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