mobil 1 0-30 vs 5-30 for chevy 2.2 l4

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The manual specs 5-30 but the Mobil 1 0-30 bottles says it's ok for 5-30 apps and DEXOS approved.

Mostly 2-3 hour runs in moderate hwy/traffic, but I might take a long (3000) trip.
 
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I have changed my vehicles to M1 0-30, my daughters car will get it next change. It will handle any conditions you may encounter, plus better cold start protection.
 
is it a different formula completely, or just slightly lighter weight?

I see one of your cars is 1996. Mine is 2009 but not DI.
 
Better cold start protection essentially. It will work very well. The M1 AFE's are excellent. I have used them before in multiple situations, and I will likely stick to them after I use my last jug of old PU 5W20.
 
I don't think the formulation will be much different. The 99 protege has 130,000 miles with unknown maintenance history. Consumption is same as 5-30 M1, basically none. Dakota has 125,000 miles, no consumption. My daughter drives the Cirrus, it has 241,000 miles. With M1 HM 5-30, consumption is less than 1 qt in 6000 mile oci. I am changing over to 0-30 because it spends the winters outdoors in Grand Forks, ND without available plug in for engine heater. I anticipate consumption will not change much.
 
Originally Posted By: datech
is it a different formula completely, or just slightly lighter weight?



Well, its not a lighter weight, its about the same. Its hard to know for sure about the "formula" since Mobil doesn't give away the recipe. But indications are that 0w30AFE is a different base stock with higher inherent VI, which would imply that the final product probably has fewer VI improvers. Both the AFE oils have served me well so far, including 0w20AFE in my Ram in hot weather towing. Less oil pressure drop in the heat with it than with 5w20. Overall, I think the 0w30 AFE is a little better product for the dollar than M1 5w30. Maybe even than 5w30EP.
 
I have used Mobil 1 0w-30 in my 2 Toyotas ('05 Tacoma 4.0, '00 4runner 3.4) and my '12 Subaru OB 2.5. The Toyotas used no oil (They never have) and the Subaru used 4 oz in 5k miles. It has never used any 5w-30.

I am inclined to switch all of them to 0w-30 year round. The usage in the Subaru in insignificant, and may be from cold running, rather than the oil. (It has had 0w-30 in winter, 5w-30 summer since new.) My concern up until now has been heat in summer......I sometimes drive in 110-115F. But, I have come to understand that the base stock is at least as good, in the 0w-30.
 
Both M1 5w30 and M1 0w30 are fine products that should easily work for the manufacturers recommended OCI.
If I lived in Minnesota I'd probably use the 0w30 but in NM (or California, Texas, Florida, Louisiana etc...) I doubt it matters much.
 
I'm using the OLM, and the mileage has snuck up on me to about 12k, with 15% remaining, so I think I'll change it while the weather's nice.

I guess I could get a jug of each and make a blend.
 
Originally Posted By: pbm
Both M1 5w30 and M1 0w30 are fine products that should easily work for the manufacturers recommended OCI.
If I lived in Minnesota I'd probably use the 0w30 but in NM (or California, Texas, Florida, Louisiana etc...) I doubt it matters much.


People get the wrong idea about NM.
I have seen -25F at my house, more than once. I live at 7200' elevation. 0F is a regular thing, in winter.
 
Originally Posted By: datech

I guess I could get a jug of each and make a blend.


You could... but what's the point since they're usually priced identically?

There's no downside to the 0w30. Just use it all the time.
 
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