Mob1 5w/30, 7456 mi on oil, 95 Toyota Pickup 22re

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Mar 23, 2014
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My first analysis (hope I posted it right). I guess my motor is living on borrowed time. I'm the original owner and have taken good care of the truck but have used it hard thoroughly. Construction tools, heavy lumber, over-size tires, off-roading, constant A/C in long, hot Houston summers. K&N air filter. Amsoil oil filter.
Code:
OIL             Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W/30  
MILES IN USE    7,456
MILES           186k  
SAMPLE TAKEN    2/22/2014

() = value in bold on report

			Universal Avg

ALUMINUM        (9)	3
CHROMIUM        (4)	0
IRON            (38)	9
COPPER          (17)	3
LEAD            (11)	3
TIN             0   	1     
MOLYBDENUM      60	65
NICKEL          1	0
MANGANESE       1	0
SILVER          0	0        
TITANIUM        0 	0       
POTASSIUM       7	2
BORON           20	41	
SILICON         (35)	13
SODIUM          (89)	73
CALCIUM         1171	2076
MAGNESIUM       652	112
PHOSPHORUS      926	756
ZINC            1104	892
BARIUM          0       0 


			Should Be
     
INSOLUBLES      0.3     <0.6 
WATER           0       <0.1 
FLASHPOINT ºF   395	>365
SUS VIS 210ºF   61.4    56-63 
cSt @ 100ºC     10.61  	9.1-11.3
Fuel%		<0.5  	<2.0
Comment from report: Unfortunately, this isn't a pretty report. Universal averages show normal levels of wear for the 22RE engine, based on ~4,000 miles of oil use. This oil has seen more use, but that can't explain all this metal. Aluminum/chrome/iron are from the cylinder-area, and iron/copper/lead come from the bearing-area. Silicon could be a harmless sealer, so if the engine was worked on recently, that might have caused some excess wear. Silicon could also be dirt, so check air filtration. Sodium can show coolant, but tough to say for sure. Try 4,000 miles next. Keep an eye on this engine.
 
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Ouch =/ Shorten your OCI per Blackstone's recommendation...and just a suggestion, I would get rid of that K&N and drop in a paper Fram air filter, maybe give PP a try with a Fram TG oil filter for the shorter OCI.
 

JAG

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Originally Posted By: gregk24
Ouch =/ Shorten your OCI per Blackstone's recommendation...and just a suggestion, I would get rid of that K&N and drop in a paper Fram air filter, maybe give PP a try with a Fram TG oil filter for the shorter OCI.
+1 and search for possible source of coolant ingestion, assuming prior oils used did not contain sodium.
 

booey

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Thanks. Will do that. Would you suggest a leak-down test to find the coolant leak?
 
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I'll agree with previous posters: Get a good paper air filter and find/repair the coolant issue. Dump the oil after both of those items are fixed. Another UOA for the oil change that's new after both of those items are fixed is in order.
 
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I have used Toyota pu's with 22R's since 1983 and have put up to 500k on an engine (that engine was run exclusively on 20w-50) My thoughts for what it's worth: Use a standard filter (as others have said) Use a heavier oil (I think I'd use a 10w-30 HDEO if not a 15w-40 seeing as you are in Texas) Check the timing chain (one vice of the 22R is for the chain to stretch break the guide rail then wear into the water pump body, which will leak coolant into the oil pan)
 

booey

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The timing chain was recently replaced so that should be good. I don't know why the report said 5w-30 because it was really 10w-30. I just copied what the report said without noticing. I'll correct the info in my first post. I only have 136 miles on the truck since the oil change and I'll get the air filter switched before I drive it next. Is the Amsoil oil filter so bad that I need to abort this fresh oil change?
 
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The Amsoil filters are some of the best around, although a waste for short intervals. I'd be doing short OCIs of 3,000 miles with Rotella 15w-40 and concentrate on finding the source of coolant.
 
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Originally Posted By: booey
The timing chain was recently replaced so that should be good.
Just a thought (because the 22R is normally a very long life engine, even if used hard) Was the chain replaced during your time of ownership? I ask because I wonder how bad things got before it was replaced. I had one that I let go too far. I ended up with coolant in the oil, which really killed the bearings and plugged the oil ways with brown crud. Ended up doing a total re-build on that engine (which, in fact was not too expensive) My lesson was learned!
 

booey

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Had the timing chain (and water pump) replaced while fixing an oil leak in the cover. Wasn't told of any excessive wear. My coolant level is rock solid. Never needs any topping off and there is no obvious oil. Thanks all for the help.
 
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Which oil did you run prior to the Mobil 1? Amsoil and K&N are complete overkill for this application. Fram or Wix all around and call it a day.
 
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K. I'm just spitballing here so bear with me. How was the engine maintained prior to your ownership and is it possible there were deposits in the engine. The reason I ask is because if there were deposit accumulation it's possible the M1 cleaned these deposits up somewhat and in the deposits there was the metals that are reading high here. I'm no fan of M1 and it seems to be a trend that high wear metals are par for the course however in older engines there may be deposit formations that accumulated the metals and once the M1 was introduced it cleaned the deposits which loaded the oil with the dissolved metals. Again just spitballing. And 3000 miles on an amsoil filter is crazy. 10000 miles minimum.
 

booey

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Originally Posted By: Clevy
K. I'm just spitballing here so bear with me. How was the engine maintained prior to your ownership and is it possible there were deposits in the engine. The reason I ask is because if there were deposit accumulation it's possible the M1 cleaned these deposits up somewhat and in the deposits there was the metals that are reading high here. I'm no fan of M1 and it seems to be a trend that high wear metals are par for the course however in older engines there may be deposit formations that accumulated the metals and once the M1 was introduced it cleaned the deposits which loaded the oil with the dissolved metals. Again just spitballing. And 3000 miles on an amsoil filter is crazy. 10000 miles minimum.
Now that you mention it, the oil that the sample was taken from was the first time I used Mobil 1 High Mileage oil. Good catch and I hope that's the only problem. I am the original owner of the truck. When I bought it almost 20 years ago I would get a little lazy/forgetful about oil changes and record keeping so I can't say that I was like clockwork on the oil changes. Admittedly, I would go too long at times. Now with cloud storage, apps and smart phones, it's so easy to keep track of maintenance and receipts that there really is no excuse. I've been keeping much more detailed records, but only for the last 5 yrs or so. Going forward I'll run Fram for both filters and stick with the Mobil 1? OC every 3-4k.
 
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I Agree THIS could well be the reason for your poor uoa. Personally, I'd be OK with the 3-4k oci's especially if you are running in a dirty environment, but I see no reason to waste money on synthetic.
 

booey

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Right, maybe I'll switch to regular oil since I'm going to a short interval. What are the recommendations? Rotella? Something else? It will be interesting to see what the next few tests show with the above plan.
 
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Why don't you just change one thing at a time? For instance, if you're going to take out the K&N air filter, don't change any other variables. Keep the oil and filter the same and see if the silicon changes significantly on the resulting uoa.
 
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Any conventional will do. Stick with regular 5W-30 unless your engine is consuming/leaking oil. I would follow Toyota's recommended oil change interval of 6 months/5000 miles. One last piece of advice. If you are going to use oil analysis to track down any possible coolant leaks, avoid motor oils that contain sodium as part of their additive package as they can distort the results. The laboratory will probably not flag a high sodium value if the sample was from an oil known to contain it, e.g., Valvoline/NAPA, Mobil Super 5000, Castrol GTX, and a few store brands.
 
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Honestly, I run with whatever Dino is on sale. 5w-30 in the winter 10w30 or 15w40 Walmart brand HDEO in the summer. the engine (to me) sounds better on the heavy weight oil. I have never had a UOA, as really, re-building a 22R is not a big financial undertaking. If and when you need to. $200 gets you all the parts your likely to need, a machine shop will charge about the same for cleaning and boring.
 
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