MMO + Rotella T5: Reduction in Blowby in my L05

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6,773
Location
Fort Lauderdale, FL
My 1992 Caprice Station Wagon with L05 5.7 TBI V8 engine had been suffering from major blowby, to the point where my low oil level light was routinely coming on, even after top-offs, and I had to replace my PCV system with breathers. The breathers would then become routinely saturated with oil, and it became the norm to smell either crankcase stink, oil burning on the exhaust manifolds, or both at the same time. Oil level continued to be problem. At idle, a visble jet of blowby smoke emitted from both valve cover breathers. On a whim, I decided to top off the system with MMO, instead of oil out of the 2 jugs of Rotella T5 I came to carry in my wagon. The first "benefit" I noticed was that the crankcase stink was replaced by the not-all-that-bad aroma of MMO. After about 800 miles, fuel economy and power made a definite jump. Doing 95-100 on the highway no longer required alot of throttle pressure, and highway driving, even with the huge R4 AC compressor going no longer resulted in visual declines of the fuel needle. I started with about 11-12mpg highway when I bought her, and between the Seafoaming and MMO, she got up to 17mpg on the highway, the major emissions from the valve covers has ceased, and my daily check of the dipstick reveals the oil no longer goes anywhere but inside of the engine. After I tested the new AC Delco wires that came with the car at 9K ohms or greater, I replaced the wires with stainless steel marine wires (.9-1.1K ohms), and replaced the Delco platinum plugs with NGK double platinum V-Powers, netting a new highway fuel economy of 20mpg @ 90mph. At 90, she'll sometimes get away from me and creep to 95 if I'm not paying attention, and will crack 100 easily with very little persuasion. Once I have redone all of her old seals, I plan to switch to a full synthetic. T6 is out of the question, because of the 40-weight. I want to stick with 10/30. I have no catalyst, so I can run any motor oil I want. Long story, short: The **** works. laugh
 

DoubleWasp

Thread starter
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6,773
Location
Fort Lauderdale, FL
Might give it a shot then. I love the T5, and the T6 is on a major sale locally. I was surprised. I'm a firm believer in "just fix the [censored] thing", and always scoffed at the "fix in the bottle" solutions, aside from Dr. Tranny. I've passed by the MMO for years without giving it a second glance, but it was a "what the [censored], why not?" situation. Out of nowhere, it actually made an improvement.
 
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35,693
Location
NY
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
Another anecdotal success story!
Yes indeed, quite positive in fact. It also mimics many other people's results. Stay tuned for your regularly scheduled bombardment. LOL Nice report.
 
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19,686
Location
Sunny Florida
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
Another anecdotal success story!
Yes indeed, quite positive in fact. It also mimics many other people's results. Stay tuned for your regularly scheduled bombardment. LOL Nice report.
Yep, expect the same boring exchanges...
 

DoubleWasp

Thread starter
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6,773
Location
Fort Lauderdale, FL
I guess there is some sort of controversy concerning MMO? confused I don't know exactly what it does or does not do, but I do know that I was about 5 minutes away from pulling the engine until the MMO. She still might get that treatment anyway, just because I want a fresh, more powerful build before I drive her down through South America, but in the mean time, at least I don't have to put up with any more of the oil drama. cool
 
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1,618
Location
Watertown, New York
It may have cleaned out the rings and they are now sealing better to the cylinder walls. I know alot of Saturn guys have done piston soaks using MMO and reported less oil consumption.
 
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Location
Michigan
Wouldn't it be better to put the MMO in the fuel if the purpose is to clean up piston deposits and free stuck rings? If you're putting it in the oil, it's probably better to start with a thicker oil so that when the MMO is mixed in, you end up with a viscosity in the 30 range. There are viscosity calculators online that you could use to determine the proper mix. Somebody did a VOA of MMO here recently, so we know what its viscosity is.
 
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35,693
Location
NY
Originally Posted By: Callies_Kustoms
I love it! If you had said it did nothing these same people would be jumping around singing from the tops of the mountains saying snake oil, snake oil, I told you so!
On this board? Never! LOL crackmeup
 
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FEMA Region 4
Another success story! MMO is the way to go! Many here know that I am pro-marvel in everything I own, both in the fuel and crankcase. Let the arguments...er...discussions begin!
 
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19,686
Location
Sunny Florida
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Wouldn't it be better to put the MMO in the fuel if the purpose is to clean up piston deposits and free stuck rings?
In another popular engine cleaning formula they recommend BOTH the fuel and the oil be treated simultaneously for best results. Worked well here...
 
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1,618
Location
Watertown, New York
The "piston soak" method, it to remove the plugs and pour in MMO until the piston tops are covered. Slowly crank the engine over by hand once or twice to coat the cylinders. Let is soak in for 24 hrs or longer. Crank engine over with starter to blow out the excess oil, and reinstall the plugs.
 
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Location
FEMA Region 4
Im really surprised that this thread hasn't blown up. I haven't been here long but I have noticed that anything with the letters MMO becomes a donnybrook! And not only is it about MMO, but using it with a positive result! Good job guys! banana
 
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35,693
Location
NY
Originally Posted By: cronk
The "piston soak" method, it to remove the plugs and pour in MMO until the piston tops are covered. Slowly crank the engine over by hand once or twice to coat the cylinders. Let is soak in for 24 hrs or longer. Crank engine over with starter to blow out the excess oil, and reinstall the plugs.
My snow blower gets a piston soak with MMO every year. I use it for a fogging oil, then remove the plug, pour some in, put the plug back in and pull the starter cord a few times. It gets a piston soak from mid April until the first snowstorm, whenever that is.
 
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Saskatoon canada
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Wouldn't it be better to put the MMO in the fuel if the purpose is to clean up piston deposits and free stuck rings? If you're putting it in the oil, it's probably better to start with a thicker oil so that when the MMO is mixed in, you end up with a viscosity in the 30 range. There are viscosity calculators online that you could use to determine the proper mix. Somebody did a VOA of MMO here recently, so we know what its viscosity is.
In regards to the first question a piston soak done properly is exponentially more effective when the cleaning solution,in this case mmo,is able to completely saturate and soak into any accumulated deposits which then should help dissolve the build up. Complete saturation and keeping the deposits saturated for a day should,in my opinion,clean combustion chambers better then adding a product to the fuel for that specific type of deposits. Just using common reasoning here. Unless I'm missing something about fuel system cleaner additives my thinking leads me to guess that the deposits in the combustion chambers,with the engine running,means that they will be hot,dry and basically glued in place. A fuel additive has to do all it's magic in the fractions of a second that the fuel charge is in the cylinder unburned,because once burned how exactly is the exhaust gas supposed to clean? With the cleaner inside the cylinder wet it saturates and softens those deposits making them easier to remove once the engine is started and air starts flowing through. If I'm wrong please explain,I find this fascinating and would love to be enlightened.
 
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