Does anyone have any experience of using MMO in a TDI? I have a 2001 VW Golf TDI and thought about using it in the oil. I usually only see people on here talk about using MMO in gasoline engines.
MMO in TDI
- Thread starter adamrc
- Start date
- Status
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/faq/#fuel
Read a bunch of links here.
They say it's good for diesels, at the same rate as gas [4 ounces per 10 gal fuel].
Read a bunch of links here.
They say it's good for diesels, at the same rate as gas [4 ounces per 10 gal fuel].
I don't have any intentions on using in my diesel fuel. I also make my own biodiesel fuel so it needs no other additives. I was wondering if anyone has added it to their engine oil.
Originally Posted By: adamrc
I don't have any intentions on using in my diesel fuel. I also make my own biodiesel fuel so it needs no other additives. I was wondering if anyone has added it to their engine oil.
What engine oil are you using now? And what oil change interval?
I don't have any intentions on using in my diesel fuel. I also make my own biodiesel fuel so it needs no other additives. I was wondering if anyone has added it to their engine oil.
What engine oil are you using now? And what oil change interval?
Originally Posted By: Tornado Red
Originally Posted By: adamrc
I don't have any intentions on using in my diesel fuel. I also make my own biodiesel fuel so it needs no other additives. I was wondering if anyone has added it to their engine oil.
What engine oil are you using now? And what oil change interval?
I'm using Shell Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic. I usually change around 7500 miles.
Originally Posted By: adamrc
I don't have any intentions on using in my diesel fuel. I also make my own biodiesel fuel so it needs no other additives. I was wondering if anyone has added it to their engine oil.
What engine oil are you using now? And what oil change interval?
I'm using Shell Rotella 5W-40 Synthetic. I usually change around 7500 miles.
I just wondered, because lots of people who make their own fuel figure they can use extended oil change intervals, when that is really not safe. In your case, you might either do some used-oil testing or just cut back to a 4000-5000 mile OCI just to be safe.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Messages
- 39,799
Originally Posted By: adamrc
Does anyone have any experience of using MMO in a TDI? I have a 2001 VW Golf TDI and thought about using it in the oil. I usually only see people on here talk about using MMO in gasoline engines.
Your diesel fuel tends to keep your engine clean. Why do you think GUNK repackages kerosene in a can for $5 and label it an engine flush? Your worries should be in ring and turbo coking. I have no reason to believe that MMO will do anything in that regard.
I'm uncertain why Tornado Red feels that using biobased fuel is "unsafe" over any arbitrary mileage. A TDI can handle incredible OCI's if it has bypass filtration. Soot control should be a piece of cake over your OCI ..longer even.
..but UOA is always fun to look at..
Does anyone have any experience of using MMO in a TDI? I have a 2001 VW Golf TDI and thought about using it in the oil. I usually only see people on here talk about using MMO in gasoline engines.
Your diesel fuel tends to keep your engine clean. Why do you think GUNK repackages kerosene in a can for $5 and label it an engine flush? Your worries should be in ring and turbo coking. I have no reason to believe that MMO will do anything in that regard.
I'm uncertain why Tornado Red feels that using biobased fuel is "unsafe" over any arbitrary mileage. A TDI can handle incredible OCI's if it has bypass filtration. Soot control should be a piece of cake over your OCI ..longer even.
..but UOA is always fun to look at..
I would be concerned about possible fuel contamination of the engine oil. It can be a serious problem for TDIs with WVO systems, so for those who make their own biodiesel the integrity of the production process is vitally important.
MMO would not be a good idea in a TDI. It is mostly Naptha like compounds and would open a diesel up to increased risk of lobe damage. Most gasoline engines have super easy cam knose loads and are rollerrized etc.....This means many of them can afford to weaken the oil's EP and AW package with little risk of damage. TDI's are differnt beasts all together. If youwant to clean the engine order a gallon of Lube COntrol and use as double the recomended treat rate for the first 2-3 oil changes then drop down to the recomended treat rate if useing synthetic oils. If you use dino in your tdi stay at the double the recomended treat rate which was the recomended treat rate for something like 40 years or close to it. The other great cleaner is Auto=Rx use something like RTS 5W40 which is a GIII synthetic with a rather simple additive package for 3000 miles with ARX then rinse with 15W40 or 10W30 Rotella dino for 1500 miles and call it good. After all you need only clean the rings lands,pick-up screen and turbo lines even if you have no sludge it is worth it.
If you have Schaffers dealer near by so you can get around haze mate N* 131 is good cleaner too not as strong as theother too. If your engine is dirty you can toss the entire bottle in the crank case based on testing done by Bob Winters the man that started this site origanal with no harm. Then after a normal oil change interval with it in the engine you drain and use 1-2 onces per quart of oil as a maintence dose to kep things clean.
If you have Schaffers dealer near by so you can get around haze mate N* 131 is good cleaner too not as strong as theother too. If your engine is dirty you can toss the entire bottle in the crank case based on testing done by Bob Winters the man that started this site origanal with no harm. Then after a normal oil change interval with it in the engine you drain and use 1-2 onces per quart of oil as a maintence dose to kep things clean.
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
MMO would not be a good idea in a TDI. It is mostly Naptha like compounds and would open a diesel up to increased risk of lobe damage. Most gasoline engines have super easy cam knose loads and are rol
It does not have Naptha in it, which is a solvent - it has a Naphthenic oil base (as opposed to a parrafinic base oil) - about 70% of total.
MMO would not be a good idea in a TDI. It is mostly Naptha like compounds and would open a diesel up to increased risk of lobe damage. Most gasoline engines have super easy cam knose loads and are rol
It does not have Naptha in it, which is a solvent - it has a Naphthenic oil base (as opposed to a parrafinic base oil) - about 70% of total.
Originally Posted By: Jax_RX8
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
MMO would not be a good idea in a TDI. It is mostly Naptha like compounds and would open a diesel up to increased risk of lobe damage. Most gasoline engines have super easy cam knose loads and are rol
It does not have Naptha in it, which is a solvent - it has a Naphthenic oil base (as opposed to a parrafinic base oil) - about 70% of total.
Great info Jax
Can you explain the difference between Naptha, and Naphthenic oil base? This would be for people like myself who didn't do well in Chemistry class. Many thanks!
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
MMO would not be a good idea in a TDI. It is mostly Naptha like compounds and would open a diesel up to increased risk of lobe damage. Most gasoline engines have super easy cam knose loads and are rol
It does not have Naptha in it, which is a solvent - it has a Naphthenic oil base (as opposed to a parrafinic base oil) - about 70% of total.
Great info Jax
Can you explain the difference between Naptha, and Naphthenic oil base? This would be for people like myself who didn't do well in Chemistry class. Many thanks!
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Jax_RX8
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
MMO would not be a good idea in a TDI. It is mostly Naptha like compounds and would open a diesel up to increased risk of lobe damage. Most gasoline engines have super easy cam knose loads and are rol
It does not have Naptha in it, which is a solvent - it has a Naphthenic oil base (as opposed to a parrafinic base oil) - about 70% of total.
Great info Jax
Can you explain the difference between Naptha, and Naphthenic oil base? This would be for people like myself who didn't do well in Chemistry class. Many thanks!
Heres a go:
Naphtha is a true solvent, like mineral spirits, etc. Basically, it is what is used in Coleman Lamps for fuel. Here is the Wiki data:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha
There are two basic kinds of dino base oils - paraffinic and Naphthenic. Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster. Wiki does a great job of explaining, so I will quote them here and provide a link.
"Naphthenic oil is a type of mineral oil. In contrast with paraffinic oils, naphthenic oils contain only low to no proportion of n-alkanes, being based on cycloalkanes (naphthenes) instead. The low-temperature behavior of naphthenic oils is better than of paraffinic oils, making them suitable for applications that require low pour point. The degradation products of naphthenic oils are soluble in the oils, leading to fewer problems with formations of sludges and deposits. Naphthenic oils have different solvent properties than paraffinic oils.
Naphthenic oils are characterized by high proportion of cyclic hydrocarbon fraction. The convention is that when the paraffinic carbon content is less than 55-60%, the oil is labeled as naphthenic.[1]
The principial uses of naphthenic oils are as transformer oils, coolants, solvents, cutting fluids, and some lubricants."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphthenic_oil
Originally Posted By: Jax_RX8
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
MMO would not be a good idea in a TDI. It is mostly Naptha like compounds and would open a diesel up to increased risk of lobe damage. Most gasoline engines have super easy cam knose loads and are rol
It does not have Naptha in it, which is a solvent - it has a Naphthenic oil base (as opposed to a parrafinic base oil) - about 70% of total.
Great info Jax
Can you explain the difference between Naptha, and Naphthenic oil base? This would be for people like myself who didn't do well in Chemistry class. Many thanks!
Heres a go:
Naphtha is a true solvent, like mineral spirits, etc. Basically, it is what is used in Coleman Lamps for fuel. Here is the Wiki data:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naptha
There are two basic kinds of dino base oils - paraffinic and Naphthenic. Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster. Wiki does a great job of explaining, so I will quote them here and provide a link.
"Naphthenic oil is a type of mineral oil. In contrast with paraffinic oils, naphthenic oils contain only low to no proportion of n-alkanes, being based on cycloalkanes (naphthenes) instead. The low-temperature behavior of naphthenic oils is better than of paraffinic oils, making them suitable for applications that require low pour point. The degradation products of naphthenic oils are soluble in the oils, leading to fewer problems with formations of sludges and deposits. Naphthenic oils have different solvent properties than paraffinic oils.
Naphthenic oils are characterized by high proportion of cyclic hydrocarbon fraction. The convention is that when the paraffinic carbon content is less than 55-60%, the oil is labeled as naphthenic.[1]
The principial uses of naphthenic oils are as transformer oils, coolants, solvents, cutting fluids, and some lubricants."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naphthenic_oil
Thanks Jax. A far cry from "mineral spirits" or solvents in the traditional sense IMO. I like that whole polar property too! Good stuff.
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2002
- Messages
- 4,193
AdamRC, I have tried MMO in my ALH powered TDI years ago. I received no benefit from this action that I could tell. I ran Delvac-1 nearly exclusively for 220,000 miles at 10,000 mile drain intervals and the engine was spotless inside.
I tried the MMO because I had heard such good things about it (prior to this website) but in the oil I saw no benefit.
I did like to add it to the fuel as a additional lubricant to the VE rotary pump but I don't know if that helped at all. At 220,000 miles the car was on the original fuel pump, injectors, entire powertrain, etc., with not a single failure from anything. Because you're making your own biofuel from used cooking oil you'd likely not see any benefit in the fuel either. You're doing as well as you can from the lubrication aspect.
Give the MMO a try and see. It's inexpensive and harmless.
How is the Rotella-T Syn working out for you?
I tried the MMO because I had heard such good things about it (prior to this website) but in the oil I saw no benefit.
I did like to add it to the fuel as a additional lubricant to the VE rotary pump but I don't know if that helped at all. At 220,000 miles the car was on the original fuel pump, injectors, entire powertrain, etc., with not a single failure from anything. Because you're making your own biofuel from used cooking oil you'd likely not see any benefit in the fuel either. You're doing as well as you can from the lubrication aspect.
Give the MMO a try and see. It's inexpensive and harmless.
How is the Rotella-T Syn working out for you?
Thanks for the replies everyone. The Rotella-T synthetic is working great so far. I can find it easily and it is reasonably priced. I also forgot to mention that I ran Auto-RX in my TDI for 3000 miles and it did help smooth out the engine and give slightly more power. I know I don't need to add MMO to the fuel because my biodiesel has excellent lubricity although being that it has been so cold recently, I've only been running petro diesel.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked