MMO for other than cleaning ?

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While researching MMO I noticed it's extreme cold pour charecteristics . How many have found a noticeable difference in using MMO added to oil in the winter for improved cold start up ?
 
All my vehicles get MMO in severe cold for it's lubricity. It's hard to actually notice a difference sitting in the drivers seat at -30F. It's protection you won't feel.
 
Oh geez, too late to edit & got called away... LOL I wanted to add what's in the above post for the benefits adding in the gas. For the oil, MMO is about a 5w, so unless you put in a lot to offset a 10w-30, etc., the engine will not crank over much faster.
 
MMO will only benefit the fuel in the cold if it is MORE volatile than the parent fuel.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
MMO will only benefit the fuel in the cold if it is MORE volatile than the parent fuel.
I don't follow...that should never be the case at any temperature. What does higher volatility have to do with benefits?
 
I think Mobil would already be using paint thinner (mineral spirits -- the active cleaner in MMO) if it was a better fuel than gasoline.
 
It doesn't get that cold here in central Florida but I have used MMO in my oil a few times during our "winter" months. I used it primarily as a cleaner. When I used it in my oil I did have a very noticeable improvement in the way my engine started up in cold weather. By cold weather I mean it was maybe 40 degrees at 7:15 am when I was leaving for work. We don't get those kind of temps here often and when we do they do not last more than a day or two at most. But I did notice my engine would start a little faster and easier in the cold with MMO in th oil. I added a pint of MMO to my 4 quart oil sump each time I used it in the oil. I use MMO in my gas every time I fill up, but I have no info on how it affects gas in winter. My truck does run very quiet and smooth and has a nice even idle with MMO in the fuel, no matter what the weather is like.
 
I've used the MMO in the oil a lot lately, with very noticable results. First I tried a run of 15w40 in my Jeep, it was too thick the Jeep clearly didn't like it (too long a story for here). I drained a bit and put a quart of MMO in it and the issues immediately disappeared, I finished the OCI without issue. Recently my son's Chrysler was not cranking very well when cold since the weather had changed, and it was full of Rotella 10w30 which is pretty thick. I topped him off with a pint of MMO and his cold crank issue vanished. It starts like it's summertime now. He thought maybe his battery was giving out it was turning over so hard but it turned out to be too thick of oil for the weather, MMO cleared that up. So in my experience yes it works for improving flow properties, I also like it for cleaning. Every single one of our vehicles now has a shot of MMO in the oil due to the low temps we're now having.
 
So..... Instead of using 15w40 and 10w30 and then thinning them down with MMO, why wouldn't you just put in a 5w30 to begin with? To me it doesn't make sense to buy an oil and then "additive it" into the oil you should have bought in the first place confused
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
So..... Instead of using 15w40 and 10w30 and then thinning them down with MMO, why wouldn't you just put in a 5w30 to begin with? To me it doesn't make sense to buy an oil and then "additive it" into the oil you should have bought in the first place confused
Good point! MMO will thin the oil to various degrees, and of course cold drag and flow will improve. But I still don't like MMO in the oil on a regular basis. In the fuel? Sure!
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
So..... Instead of using 15w40 and 10w30 and then thinning them down with MMO, why wouldn't you just put in a 5w30 to begin with? To me it doesn't make sense to buy an oil and then "additive it" into the oil you should have bought in the first place confused
True point indeed... in my case thanks to BITOG we've greatly extended our OCI's. So that Rotella 10w30 that went in my son's Chrysler in the heat of July was too thick for November, we've got another 1500 miles on the OCI. Thus the MMO. It will clean a bit too... His upcoming oil change is already set for PYB 5w30, a good match for December into spring. I have no plans to dump MMO into that. At his current useage he's going to be at about two oil changes a year now, we'd have done 3 or 4 in that same time previously.
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
While researching MMO I noticed it's extreme cold pour charecteristics . How many have found a noticeable difference in using MMO added to oil in the winter for improved cold start up ?
I've seen a tremendous advantage in extreme cold vs. M1 5W30 synthetic oil alone. I'd visit a cousing who lived in the Adirondack mountains and it would sometimes dip to -35*F or even colder. I recall going there one year w/o MMO in the sump and I thought my van was going to die when I fired it up. Also my preluber pump takes forever to build pressure in that kind of cold, with a qt of MMO in the sump it will build pressure much faster than synthetic 5W30 oil alone. This is why I suggest for the skeptics thinking about trying MMO to try it in the winter, they might actually notice a difference. To each his own though.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
While researching MMO I noticed it's extreme cold pour charecteristics . How many have found a noticeable difference in using MMO added to oil in the winter for improved cold start up ?
I've seen a tremendous advantage in extreme cold vs. M1 5W30 synthetic oil alone. I'd visit a cousing who lived in the Adirondack mountains and it would sometimes dip to -35*F or even colder. I recall going there one year w/o MMO in the sump and I thought my van was going to die when I fired it up. Also my preluber pump takes forever to build pressure in that kind of cold, with a qt of MMO in the sump it will build pressure much faster than synthetic 5W30 oil alone. This is why I suggest for the skeptics thinking about trying MMO to try it in the winter, they might actually notice a difference. To each his own though.
Well yeah, you probably turned the oil into 5w20 doing that.......
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
So..... Instead of using 15w40 and 10w30 and then thinning them down with MMO, why wouldn't you just put in a 5w30 to begin with? To me it doesn't make sense to buy an oil and then "additive it" into the oil you should have bought in the first place confused
But but, all the anecdotes say it works miracles.....
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Well yeah, you probably turned the oil into 5w20 doing that.......
I'm thinking something better than a 0W30 as far as cold flow is concerned. I doubt it took it to a 20 grade oil. I have a 6 qt sump. You'd be amazed just how much faster it pumps through my pre-luber compared to oil alone once the temps start dropping.
 
Originally Posted By: Trajan
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
So..... Instead of using 15w40 and 10w30 and then thinning them down with MMO, why wouldn't you just put in a 5w30 to begin with? To me it doesn't make sense to buy an oil and then "additive it" into the oil you should have bought in the first place confused
But but, all the anecdotes say it works miracles.....
Long time no see Trajan, another MMO thread struck a cord? Why not contribute something useful for the OP? From your first hand experience with the product, good or bad, instead of your obvious hate of the product. Just a suggestion that's all.
 
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Well yeah, you probably turned the oil into 5w20 doing that.......
I'm thinking something better than a 0W30 as far as cold flow is concerned. I doubt it took it to a 20 grade oil. I have a 6 qt sump. You'd be amazed just how much faster it pumps through my pre-luber compared to oil alone once the temps start dropping.
I doubt it. 70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil) (this would NOT be synthetic, it would be a very light straight-weight) is not going to have superior cold-flow properties to the same visc multi-grade (which doesn't exist, but anyway...) HOWEVER According to the VOA, it is a 2.64cst oil. The MINIMUM for a 20 weight is 5.6, SAE 5 is 3.8, so this stuff would be what, SAE 0? Using the Widman visc blending calc, if you put in 1 quart of MMO (2.64cst) into 5 quarts Mobil 1 5w30 (11.00cst) you end up with an 8.54cst oil, which is a healthy 20-weight oil (the top of the range is 9.29cst). Oh, and with a flash point of 160 degrees, you just FUBAR'd your NOACK too. I fail to see the logic here. Instead of running a properly formulated lighter oil, it makes more sense to dump a volatile blend of light oil and solvent into a heavier oil???? crzy
 
Originally Posted By: Trajan
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
So..... Instead of using 15w40 and 10w30 and then thinning them down with MMO, why wouldn't you just put in a 5w30 to begin with? To me it doesn't make sense to buy an oil and then "additive it" into the oil you should have bought in the first place confused
But but, all the anecdotes say it works miracles.....
Re: MMO...What can I expect? [Re: demarpaint] Trajan Registered: 07/16/05 Posts: 1527 Loc: SE PA I'm using it right now. 1qt in a 7qt sump. It had a tick I no longer hear. I pulled the stick and ran my fingers on it. No grit. ____________________________ 2006 Mustang GT vert. Mobil Super 5000 5W-20 #1668408 - 11/12/09 12:32 PM RE: MMO...What can I expect? [Re: Trajan] ADFDI Registered 04/05/09 Posts: 1682 LOC: WA Nice! How long did it take for the tick to stop? You try anything else for the tick? ______________________________ AD ---------------------------------------------------- US Navy. Helping keep our Country Safe! #1668452 - 11/12/09 01:11 PM Re: MMO...What can I expect? [Re; ADFDI] Trajan Registered: 07/16/05 Posts: 1527 Loc: SE PA Around 500 miles or so, I'm not really sure. Didn't try anything else. Seriously considering keeping the MMO in the full OCI. ( 2500 miles to go. ) _____________________________ 2006 Mustang GT vert. Mobil Super 5000 5W-20 Trajan, did you use MMO in your 2006 Mustang GT vert, or was this another car.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Well yeah, you probably turned the oil into 5w20 doing that.......
I'm thinking something better than a 0W30 as far as cold flow is concerned. I doubt it took it to a 20 grade oil. I have a 6 qt sump. You'd be amazed just how much faster it pumps through my pre-luber compared to oil alone once the temps start dropping.
I doubt it. 70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil) (this would NOT be synthetic, it would be a very light straight-weight) is not going to have superior cold-flow properties to the same visc multi-grade (which doesn't exist, but anyway...) HOWEVER According to the VOA, it is a 2.64cst oil. The MINIMUM for a 20 weight is 5.6, SAE 5 is 3.8, so this stuff would be what, SAE 0? Using the Widman visc blending calc, if you put in 1 quart of MMO (2.64cst) into 5 quarts Mobil 1 5w30 (11.00cst) you end up with an 8.54cst oil, which is a healthy 20-weight oil (the top of the range is 9.29cst). Oh, and with a flash point of 160 degrees, you just FUBAR'd your NOACK too. I fail to see the logic here. Instead of running a properly formulated lighter oil, it makes more sense to dump a volatile blend of light oil and solvent into a heavier oil???? crzy
Crazy, not if you're looking to clean up an engine, and have the added benefit of better cold starts. My pre-luber pump has proven time and time again the oil flows easier in extreme cold. I had this argument last year, place a bottle of MMO in the freezer and see what happens, then do it with your favorite 0W20 oil. Also I think if you run your calculator you'll see I was probably still in a 30 grade range, I have a 6 qt sump. Again to each his own. Let me re-phrase this comment I made earlier I said: "I'm thinking something better than a 0W30 as far as cold flow is concerned". IMO MMO added to a 5W30 synthetic oil will flow better than a 0W30 synthetic oil. All I'm refering to here is flowing in the extreme cold, nothing more. Once again the pre-luber pump and an oil pressure gauge have proven it time and time again. Also at the time I did this 0W30 oil didn't exist, and I would not use a 20 grade oil in my 4.9L I-6 Ford engine. BTW I hope we can still be friends after this discusion! I've always enjoyed your informative posts, and help in resolving a few issues I had with my van over the years!
 
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