Mixing Mobil 1

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quote:

Originally posted by Mystic:
If you mix one quart of 15W-50 Mobil 1 SuperSyn with three quarts of 10W-30 Mobil 1 SuperSyn, what viscosity of oil do you wind up with?

My guess is you'll still have a 10w30, just one with a CCV a lot closer to the 7000 cP at -25°C limit for a 10wXX oil, and that has a high temp vis a lot closer to the 12.49 cSt limit at 100°C for a XXw30.
 
If you mix one quart of 15W-50 Mobil 1 SuperSyn with three quarts of 10W-30 Mobil 1 SuperSyn, what viscosity of oil do you wind up with?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Mystic:
If you mix one quart of 15W-50 Mobil 1 SuperSyn with three quarts of 10W-30 Mobil 1 SuperSyn, what viscosity of oil do you wind up with?

The only way to truly determine this is to mix it up and do a VOA. It would be best to find a lab that does viscosity at 40C too.
 
Other then not knowing the exact viscosity, is there anything wrong with mixing Mobil 1's to obtain a higher viscosity? I know some use LC but why not just add a qt of 15w-50?
 
Oil is it's own best additive. Using some of the same brand and type of oil of higher vicosity is probably the safest way mitigate some of the problems associated with a tired engine.
Mobil 1 15W50 flows better at low temps than most conventional 10w30s so it should cause no problems at all.
 
I know a lot of people who do this, but still wonder why they don't just pick an oil that's the proper viscosity they want. My problem with this method is that even one quart of 15w50 will thicken up the cold viscosity of this oil a lot, while only marginally raising the 100C viscosity. You're better off going with a thicker 10w30 like Amsoil here, then your cold viscosity doesn't suffer. Even in summertime, I wouldn't want the 40C viscosity to be too much thicker.
 
In my previous car, I used to mix one qt. Mobil 1 and 4 qt.s Dino oil. I referred to this as my version of 'Slick 50' oil strategy. Yes, I know that Slick 50 with PTFE is bad and -no- I have never used it in any of my cars. Anyone out there do this type of mixing? I used to do it for my auto trans as well mixing 1 qt of Mobil 1 syn ATF and 4 qts. dino ATF. It worked for 220k miles in my 307" Olds V8 engine.
 
11.25W-35
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edit: oops! Tim H. beat me to the punch.

[ August 03, 2003, 01:45 PM: Message edited by: timzak ]
 
I agree, picking a heavier 30wt. oil like Amsoil or Castrol would be my choice. I think Mobil being a light weight is a negative IMO. While it might not effect wear, it does on consumption. So you save 1mpg...big deal. I'll take the higher HT/HS.
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Jim, you probably didn't get $3 or $4 worth of extra benefit from mixing the Mobil 1 into your other oil. Oil company chemists develop complete additive packages that do the best job they can for the price point they're told to hit. Mixing additive packages, while not a big problem, probably means that none of the oil works as well as it could if it wasn't mixed. Even with sticking with the same brand, Mobil for example, there's no reason to think that the add pack in Mobil 1 will improve the different add pack in Mobil DriveClean.


Ken
 
By 'doing the math' and we all know how that goes...3qts 10w-30 and 1qt 15w-50 comes out to an "11w-35' oil. and as thin as M1 is, sounds like in reality it should weigh out about the same as every other brand of 10w-30 oil!
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What are some of the heavier or thicker 30 weights of oil, Both dino and synthetic? And, will they help in the oil consumption? Why are they different if they're both 30 weights?
 
Mobil formulates for fuel efficiency more so then the other guys. In doing that, the take a hit in the HT/HS department. It's a range from 9.2cSt's to 12 something..Patman knows.... that makes an oil a 30wt. Mobil's 30wts are almost 20wts which to some people and some engines, doesn't make it a good choice.
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quote:

Originally posted by buster:
Mobil formulates for fuel efficiency more so then the other guys. .......

How do you know that? Maybe Mobil has other reasons like cost or something they are not going to tell you over the phone.
 
quote:

How do you know that? Maybe Mobil has other reasons like cost or something they are not going to tell you over the phone.

Thats possible but my guess has always been that it's the energy conserving issue as to why they are lighter 30wts.
 
quote:

Originally posted by buster:
Mobil formulates for fuel efficiency more so then the other guys. In doing that, the take a hit in the HT/HS department. It's a range from 9.2cSt's to 12 something..Patman knows.... that makes an oil a 30wt. Mobil's 30wts are almost 20wts which to some people and some engines, doesn't make it a good choice.
smile.gif


An oil's viscosity must be 9.3cst to 12.49 cst (at 100C) in order to be a 30wt oil. Mobil 1 5w30 used to be listed at 9.7 but now their newest specs say 10.0 (a bit better but I personally think they should go to 11.0, which should still acheive roughly the same fuel economy but would increase the HTHS and result in better wear numbers in many cases, IMO)
 
Well I will be testing my oil in a few months. It has 3 qts of Chevron Supreme 10W30 and 1 qts of M1 15W50. That makes a 75% group II+ and 25% PAO blend. I did not intend to do this at first. I just dreaded the thought of non-synthetic oil in the car and 10W30 to boot. So at the last minute I switched out one quart of Chevron Supreme for M1. The fact that it was 15W50 was not by design just what I had. When I hit 4 months or 5000 miles I will test it. It will be interesting to see the viscosity. I drive this engine pretty hard. I drive 50 miles one way to work with a 60/40 split between Hwy and city driveing. THe engine freq. see's 4000 RPM's and a couple times a week it hits 6000RPMs. P.S. I run the A/C all the way home from work!
 
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