Mix Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty with Lucas Marine Grease

[Fordpower7.3]

So I took my lawn mower in for service because I didn't have the time. Normally I do it myself. I have always used the Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty grease on the entire machine, spindles and all. I started using it a long time ago because of its water resistance and my mower unfortunately does get rained on a lot. Well the mower place I took it used Lucas marine grease. They said that's what they always use because it lasts the longest in wet conditions (we mow a lot of wet grass here). So I started looking online for compatibility and saw that shear stable polyurea and calcium sulfonate greases are compatible. Well this goes beyond that and they are blatantly mixed now. I am mostly concerned about inside of the deck spindles where it isn't possible to get it out without complete disassembly and then dealing with reassembly and bearing preloads and such. So the root of my question is will these greases be okay and should I continue using the marine grease now or go back to the Xtra Heavy Duty?

 

[Overfill]

Compatibility doesn't promise the performance, and mixing two fully formulated grease of different thickener types is sure to result in a grease that is significantly lower in performance. To get that performance level back, you'll want to at least try and get the unit to be holding as much as possible of one or the other (yes this tends to be a pain.) The overbased calcium sulfonate thickener that makes up Lucas marine grease is a better choice than the polyurea thickener in this application. I'm not sure if the base oil used in either is too thick for this application's speed--maybe someone here can answer that?

 

[Fordpower7.3]

Compatibility doesn't promise the performance, and mixing two fully formulated grease of different thickener types is sure to result in a grease that is significantly lower in performance. To get that performance level back, you'll want to at least try and get the unit to be holding as much as possible of one or the other (yes this tends to be a pain.) The overbased calcium sulfonate base that makes up Lucas marine grease is a better choice than the polyurea base in this application. I'm not sure if the base oil used in either is too thick for this application's speed--maybe someone here can answer that?

So the marine grease is possibly a better way to go? I don't mind switching greases for something better, and I am not partial to any brand so if there is something even better than lucas marine for an every day grease for ball joints, u-joints, lawn mower spindles, I am happy to take suggestions.

 

[Overfill]

So the marine grease is possibly a better way to go? I don't mind switching greases for something better, and I am not partial to any brand so if there is something even better than lucas marine for an every day grease for ball joints, u-joints, lawn mower spindles, I am happy to take suggestions.

Overbased Calcium Sulfonate Complex (OBCS, CSC) greases tend to be very good at wear protection and protect against water washout/ water intrusion, and have intrinsic, excellent corrosion prevention. There are a plethora of vendors that blend it with group IV (polyalpha olefin, synthetic base) of a variety of viscosities for a long lasting application. I'm sure you don't need it blended with group IV, and conventional basestock is just fine for an every day grease, but its up to you.

 

[Fordpower7.3]

Overbased Calcium Sulfonate Complex (OBCS, CSC) greases tend to be very good at wear protection and protect against water washout/ water intrusion, and have intrinsic, excellent corrosion prevention. There are a plethora of vendors that blend it with group IV (polyalpha olefin, synthetic base) of a variety of viscosities for a long lasting application. I'm sure you don't need it blended with group IV, and conventional basestock is just fine for an every day grease, but its up to you.

You are honestly above my head with that, I have been reading and reading about grease today but I haven't gotten to that section yet I guess lol

 

[RDMgr]

True compatibility of greases is determined by several factors and not just looking at a compatibility chart. Testing of several blends is required. The blends are (in percent) 100:0, 10:90, 50:50, 90:10 and 0:100. Mechanical stability of all of these blends is estimated by changes between 60 and 100,000 stroke penetrations. Other methods of work can be used. MRG Labs tests stability in an actual bearing device. The MRG method is probably the best. An extended roll stability test can also be used.

If the mechanical stability tests indicate that the greases are compatible, other performance tests are added. These often are dropping point, copper strip corrosion and Four Ball EP test.

For all of the specified in the ASTM method, there are standards that identify the greases as compatible, borderline compatible or incompatible.

As far as selecting the best grease for the application, it is easy to calculate. All you need is bearing dimensions or model number, rpm, operating temperature and certain environmental aspects and you can calculate base oil viscosity, initial fill quantity, quantity for subsequent relubrication interval and what that interval is.

 

[userfriendly]

You are honestly above my head with that, I have been reading and reading about grease today but I haven't gotten to that section yet I guess lol

You're doing OK.
The secret is the old acronym "KISS" when it comes to grease.

The local pulp mill uses #2 calcium sulfonate. I learned that from a sawmill millwright who started using it 25 years ago.
It is GCLB approved for all automotive uses including wheel bearings. And cheap when bought in the 10 pack box.
It works well in bicycles, motorcycles, chainsaw bar ends and my X320 JD.
One example is Petro-Canada OG-2.

For me, tacky means "Run Forrest".

 

[Fordpower7.3]

You're doing OK.
The secret is the old acronym "KISS" when it comes to grease.

The local pulp mill uses #2 calcium sulfonate. I learned that from a sawmill millwright who started using it 25 years ago.
It is GCLB approved for all automotive uses including wheel bearings. And cheap when bought in the 10 pack box.
It works well in bicycles, motorcycles, chainsaw bar ends and my X320 JD.
One example is Petro-Canada OG-2.

For me, tacky means "Run Forrest".

Why does tacky mean bad for you? I will probably be switching to the marine grease. Any top brands to look for?

 

[userfriendly]

Why does tacky mean bad for you? I will probably be switching to the marine grease. Any top brands to look for?

A GC-LB will have the proper amount of tacifier for the application.
Rip off a foot long strip of duct tape and put it on a flat surface like your kitchen table.
Now rip it off. That takes energy. Now imagine that extra energy in a spinning bearing.
Gluing and ripping the tacified grease from the bearing surfaces. That will cause the bearing to heat.

Would you want a tacified grease in bicycle bearings? Yes, no or maybe?
Greg Lemond won the 1989 Tour de France by 8 seconds in the final stage which was a time trial.

Maybe search tacified grease. www.lubesngreases.com on the right tack

www.nlgi.org

 

[DriverJon]

So I took my lawn mower in for service because I didn't have the time. Normally I do it myself. I have always used the Lucas Xtra Heavy Duty grease on the entire machine, spindles and all. I started using it a long time ago because of its water resistance and my mower unfortunately does get rained on a lot. Well the mower place I took it used Lucas marine grease. They said that's what they always use because it lasts the longest in wet conditions (we mow a lot of wet grass here). So I started looking online for compatibility and saw that shear stable polyurea and calcium sulfonate greases are compatible. Well this goes beyond that and they are blatantly mixed now. I am mostly concerned about inside of the deck spindles where it isn't possible to get it out without complete disassembly and then dealing with reassembly and bearing preloads and such. So the root of my question is will these greases be okay and should I continue using the marine grease now or go back to the Xtra Heavy Duty?

Yesterday (03/08/2024) I called Lucas and had a nice conversation with the head technical service guy. He told me there are a couple key ingredients in green HD grease they have not been able to get for over 2 years and now all stock everywhere has been used up. He said the ingredients SHOULD be available by mid summer and once they have them all shifts will be working OT to get it produced and shipped. He said they hope to start seeing it back in stores August/ September 2024.

As for Red-n-tacky, he said no problems there and recommended it as a substitute for their green.

IMPORTANT NOTE: He said their green is a "Polyurea" based grease and IS NOT COMPATIBLE WITH ANY GREASE THAT IS NOT ALSO POLYUREA.

Also important, he said most other companies green grease is NOT Polyurea, so not compatible.

His recommendation is if you can not find another Polyurea grease then you need to purge as much of it out of your components as possible with your new choice of grease.

I plan to pump in red/tacky until I feel like most of the green is gone. Then I'm going to be re-greasing every few thousand miles with just a couple pumps to help get the green out. A real shame because I really like the green but can't wait 6 months, and I'll probably never go back because it is to much trouble.