MITSUBISHI EVOLUTION OIL QUESTION?

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I am new to this board. I bought a Turbo car and the manual says to use fully synthetic 10w-30wt. I live in the desert and have always used M1 15w-50wt in hondas in the past with good results. I am tempted to use the 15w-15wt in this car after break in. or maybe use another brand of oil. not to sure about M1 10w-30wt. any suggestions?
 
5W-40 Delvac 1, aka M1 Truck & SUV. It's thick enough to provide gobs of protection, and thin enough to get to all the tight areas of you car. IMO, the best all-around, widely available oil.

P.S. Don't hit me too hard for saying Delvac 1 is a great all around oil. I think that it's one of the best oils at doing many different things, but by no means the best oil for every single application.
 
does the manual not have a temp/viscosity chart?

should reccomend different oils for dif. temps.
 
i second the d1/suv suggestion. Its a very good oil.

If not, maybe give one of Redline's oils a shot :) But i would stay away from m1 10w-30, its very thin, especially if you live in the desert....

[ June 13, 2004, 12:25 AM: Message edited by: cweed ]
 
The manual has a temperature chart but if only list 10w-30 as only choice. there is a note that states sae 5w-30 can be used to inprove engine startability in very cold weather.

another note states. Do only fully synthetic motor that meets or exceeds ILSAC GF-3 or API SL/CF. certification . if the correct oil is not used, any oil-related engine or turbocharger failure,along with any peripheral engine or powertrain damage, will not be covered by your vehicle warranty.

since the 4w-40 oil is API SL I should be covered even if I go out side the required 10w-30? mitsubishi is voiding warrantys for any loop hole they can find on this model. I just think that their is a better oil for my application. Hot Hot Hot. been to Vegas that is the kind of Hot I am talking about. Some people might say I worry to much but this is the type of anal people that are on this board. people that think and like their cars.
 
Your engine came factory filled with Mobil 1 10w30--I believe it even says that on the oil cap. This grade of Mobil 1 will provide more than adequate protection even in the desert heat. I'd stick with it.
 
turbo car in the desert....
Mobil1 15W50 would be your best off-the-shelf choice.
I'm in San Diego and I use this in my Mazda 323GTX.

Or Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil, Motul...
it's an EVO, get the best stuff
 
I was at wally world and noticed that Valvoline max life full synthetic 10W-30 was ACEA A3, BMW LL and not ILSAC-GF3. This must be the only 10w-30 that meets these specs. I came home and searched this Forum and you all slammed this oil because is was not Group 1V/V.

Does it really matter if it were hydrocracked DINO. It has to have a HTHS viscosity of >3.6 to be ACEA A3 this oil seems perfect for my desert driving. It has a good shot or MOLY.

It has better specs than M1 10w-30. Why would I not want to select this oil?
 
With the extreme heat that your oil will see due to ambient temps and the turbo, go with a group IV/V full synthetic ie: M1 10w-30, Amsoil 10w-30, or Redline.

The 10w-30s keep you in the manufacter' specs and also provide the lowest viscosity spread. This means that there is very little if any viscosity improvers in these oils, therefore lowering chances of sludge build up.
 
Just add 1 quart of 15w-50 M1 to the 10w-30 M1 to beef up the viscosity slightly. Nice car by the way
cool.gif
 
Gday.
You can use Motul 8100 X-cess 5w-40,Delvac1 5w-40 also very good on this application.If you can find Mobil1 5w-50 use that good year round oil.Any thing A3/B3/B4 good for your car.In Australia Castrol magnatic 10w-30[FMX] using from 0-45c' no dramas so far.
 
I'll throw in the Motul 300v oil ester based oils. The new series, just pick a suitable grade. The 8100 X-cess is not full Ester.
 
A friend of mine used to have problems with the original 30 weight Mobil1 (I think it was 5w-30 or 10w-30).

His Evo's oil fill used to darken quickly and excessively with M1 until he switched to M1 15w-50.
Much more stable.

He autoXed a lot that may have played a role.

Fred..
smile.gif
 
So now I have to make a decision.

The 10W-30 Mobil 1 is not ACEA A3 but group 4/5 base PAO.

Valvoline Max life Synthetic is ACEA A3 and meets GF-3. That would keep me in warranty.

The 15W-50 good for the extreme Heat. and is A3, but might have more VI poly stuff. might be a warranty issue.

SOMEBODY MAKE TURBO CAR OIL IN 10W-30 A3/GF-3 RATED.
 
While this might not apply today, years ago when I worked for Mobil oil I asked an oil engineer about 15-50. He stated that it did not contain viscosity index improvers. He also stated that the base stock in M1 15-50 is the same as the base stock in Valvoline 20-50 synthetic. Keep in mind this was well over 10 years ago.

Chris
 
Zmeli, if it makes you feel any better, I had an Eagle Talon for a while with a 16G and all the supporting mods, running upwards of 17 psi, and I ran it HARD, usually on Valvoline VR-1 dino racing oil. I know the guy who bought the car, and it is still going strong on the factory longblock. Lets just say this car saw more Tods Mods rev-limiter drops than you will probably ever do in your Evo. I went through clutches about every 4 months when I was big into street racing. 10w-30 Mobil 1 will be superb for your car. Just be sure and stay in vacuum for the last couple minutes of every drive, especially if you've been boosting hard prior. That way, you'll cool of the turbo and not cook the oil when you shut down.
 
Actually Mobil 1 10w-30, 5w-40, and 15w-50 all have about the same viscosity index - 147, 151, 153 respectively. If they have any VII at all it's a very small amout.
Personally if your going to drive the car like it's meant to be driven (aggressively) and plan on keeping it past warranty I'd want maximum engine protection. Lets say the crankcase holds 6 quarts, I'd buy 6 quarts of mobil 1 10w-30 then on a separate receipt I'd buy 6 quarts of 15w-50 and mix them at a 1:1 ratio. Just make sure at the recommended mileage/time interval you purchase another 6 quarts of 10w-30 so you'll have the receipt. Since your only using 3 of the 6 quarts of the 10w-30 they'll start to accumulate, when they do just return them.
For really serious street driving or autocross I'd go with straight 15w-50.
 
quote:

Originally posted by zmeli:
I am new to this board. I bought a Turbo car and the manual says to use fully synthetic 10w-30wt. I live in the desert and have always used M1 15w-50wt in hondas in the past with good results. I am tempted to use the 15w-15wt in this car after break in. or maybe use another brand of oil. not to sure about M1 10w-30wt. any suggestions?

M1 15w-50
High-flow oil filter
High-quality paper air filter (people don't realize how great of an effect proper air filtration has on UOA results!)
 
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