Mercedes OM642 3.0L diesel analysis 250,000km

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Dec 3, 2021
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Hey friends,
First time caller, long time listener....

I've had my oil analyzed on our 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee with about 250,000km. Until recently, it's been completely stock so for purposes of the wear on this oil change it's essentially a stock vehicle. We believe it's had the correct MB229.51 oil, though I couldn't be sure.

This sample was defintely from an 11,000km fill of the MB229.51.
Does everything look okay from your view? is there not enough data from the lab?

I've already switched to Rotella T6 0w40; had great results with it in our TDI ALH and Audi 2.7TT.

Edit: found this on Blauparts.com

The MB 229.51 oil specification is a Mid-Low SAPS additive (Mid-Low Sulfated Ash Phosphorus Sulfur) formulation for use in diesel engines with tier 2-3 emission systems (USA) or euro 5 emission systems (Europe). MB 229.51 extends diesel particulate filter (DPF) emission system life and is designed for extended oil change intervals. The Mercedes MB 229.51 oil quality specification requires the formulation to meet a minimum high temperature, high shear viscosity of HTHS of 3.5 mPa*s and a TBN (Total Base Number) of 6.0 or higher with a 0W-30, 5W-30 or 5W-40 viscosity. Additionally, it requires the oil formulation to consist of a group III, or a mix of group III and IV base oils. Mercedes MB229.5 oil specification correlates to an ACEA C3 oil specification.
 

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Good results.

Yes, OM642 with DPF must use 229.51 and .52 for some specific models. Without DPF can use .3/.5 too.

About TBN probably it's because method, you could ask which ASTM D- was used.

About P and Zn seems little high ¿Do you use any oil or fuel additive?
 
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May 12, 2018
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England
Hi.
I have the OM642 in my Jeep.

Your wear metals look good. In fact your iron level is less than mine. Mine was 28ppm with 5.000 miles on the oil. Your soot level is a little high. The Lab that did my analysis flagged it up as 'cautionary' at 1.5%.

My Zinc was 920ppm.

My Oil was Petronas 5w-30 MB229.52.

I have no DPF and had considered going to a E9 oil. However, MB229.51/52 oils are plentiful and relatively cheap in UK, i never made the switch.
 

Topher911

Thread starter
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Dec 3, 2021
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Thanks for the replies, everybody.

Next oil change with the Rotella T6 I'll be sure to ask which ASTM D- is used.
The TBN number does seem high, right? It uses little oil between changes; probably a couple months ago I topped it up...less than 500ml added.

About P and Zn seems little high ¿Do you use any oil or fuel additive?
No.

Good point about the soot, @Tikka , the tune (DPF delete, EGR off) should help this.
 
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Newbie here so risk of being flamed by comments. I've been maintaining my cars and motorcycles for over 30 years and have never had maintenance issues until my 2014 Mercedes GL350 Bluetec OM642 which I bought new. I maintain everything by the book including the little things like brake fluid. My cars and motorcycles run forever until this Mercedes Bluetec.
My timing chain stretched at 50k miles (had it replaced at 60k miles) using that Mercedes recommended 229.51 Mobil 1 ESP oil every 10k miles. (one extra change at 5k miles when the car was new) Now the car was recalled and the entire emissions system has been replaced: new DOC and DPF, new SCR & catalytic converter new NOx sensors and a 4yr 48k mile warranty on a bunch of stuff. (including turbo, timing chain and most of the top end) This is all part of the EPA settlement against Mercedes for cheating the emissions similar to VW/Audi/Porsche.
The Mercedes and BMW Diesel oil is API SN so a gasoline engine oil. (without the appropriate protection for soot...etc)
I started using Shell Rotella T6 at 80k miles with ACI CK-4 and ACEA E9 (also motorcycle JASO MA/MA2) and will do an oil analysis now. The car is beautiful and runs perfect again after the timing chain replacement which was done at 70k miles. Keep it or sell it? Run the Mercedes recommended 229.51/52 oil or an approved API CK4/ACEA E9 oil. I don't trust Mercedes. Worst ownership experience.
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2021
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Delete it and keep spare parts when they become sought after expiration of the new extended warranty. If what you say is true, you have a very nice motor with most of the wear parts taken care of free. You won’t be able to replace with a more fuel efficient vehicle on the market.

Once deleted, run a CK4/SM or earlier only (no SN) oil and drive it till the wheels fall off. Though you should check/balance the injectors every 150-200k or you’ll eventually over fuel a cylinder and go kaboom. That’s a fact mate for the OM642/647. OM651 can be done at 250k

Aggressive EGR will put soot back into the oil and harm the chain. Tune was better before then now.

Makes one wonder why running inferior oil without necessary dispersants/adpack for a choked motor is used to retain warranty only to then keep past and now use a better oil. Why not run the best oil in the first place? I’ve never ran the OE spec oil in any Big Three German (P, M, V) Diesels, Mitsu Evo, or Subaru STi ever. No problems for what many will say, “Lucky Me.”
 
Joined
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Newbie here so risk of being flamed by comments. I've been maintaining my cars and motorcycles for over 30 years and have never had maintenance issues until my 2014 Mercedes GL350 Bluetec OM642 which I bought new. I maintain everything by the book including the little things like brake fluid. My cars and motorcycles run forever until this Mercedes Bluetec.
My timing chain stretched at 50k miles (had it replaced at 60k miles) using that Mercedes recommended 229.51 Mobil 1 ESP oil every 10k miles. (one extra change at 5k miles when the car was new) Now the car was recalled and the entire emissions system has been replaced: new DOC and DPF, new SCR & catalytic converter new NOx sensors and a 4yr 48k mile warranty on a bunch of stuff. (including turbo, timing chain and most of the top end) This is all part of the EPA settlement against Mercedes for cheating the emissions similar to VW/Audi/Porsche.
The Mercedes and BMW Diesel oil is API SN so a gasoline engine oil. (without the appropriate protection for soot...etc)
I started using Shell Rotella T6 at 80k miles with ACI CK-4 and ACEA E9 (also motorcycle JASO MA/MA2) and will do an oil analysis now. The car is beautiful and runs perfect again after the timing chain replacement which was done at 70k miles. Keep it or sell it? Run the Mercedes recommended 229.51/52 oil or an approved API CK4/ACEA E9 oil. I don't trust Mercedes. Worst ownership experience.
API is for the most part irrelevant. Mercedes Benz 229.51 and BMW LL04 are ACEA C3 which covers both gas and diesel engines with TWC and DPF.

Your issue is EGR. Modern diesels rely even more on EGR in order to reduce combustion temps which reduces the amount of NOx that must be scrubbed by the SCR(DEF) downstream of the DPF.
 
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Newbie here so risk of being flamed by comments. I've been maintaining my cars and motorcycles for over 30 years and have never had maintenance issues until my 2014 Mercedes GL350 Bluetec OM642 which I bought new. I maintain everything by the book including the little things like brake fluid. My cars and motorcycles run forever until this Mercedes Bluetec.
My timing chain stretched at 50k miles (had it replaced at 60k miles) using that Mercedes recommended 229.51 Mobil 1 ESP oil every 10k miles. (one extra change at 5k miles when the car was new) Now the car was recalled and the entire emissions system has been replaced: new DOC and DPF, new SCR & catalytic converter new NOx sensors and a 4yr 48k mile warranty on a bunch of stuff. (including turbo, timing chain and most of the top end) This is all part of the EPA settlement against Mercedes for cheating the emissions similar to VW/Audi/Porsche.
The Mercedes and BMW Diesel oil is API SN so a gasoline engine oil. (without the appropriate protection for soot...etc)
I started using Shell Rotella T6 at 80k miles with ACI CK-4 and ACEA E9 (also motorcycle JASO MA/MA2) and will do an oil analysis now. The car is beautiful and runs perfect again after the timing chain replacement which was done at 70k miles. Keep it or sell it? Run the Mercedes recommended 229.51/52 oil or an approved API CK4/ACEA E9 oil. I don't trust Mercedes. Worst ownership experience.
You are contradicting yourself. First you said BMW and MB oil is SN, then they recommend MB229.51/52.

So several things:
1. MB doesn’t care about API.
2. MB doesn’t recommend, it REQUIRES you to use MB229.51/52. If you like that warranty, you better use, again, MB229.51 and/or MB229.52.
3. CK4/E9 is NOT approved for GL350 cdi.

You have in Wal Mart Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W30 that is MB229.51.
You have in AAP and AZ Mobil1 ESP 0W30 and 5W30 that are MB229.51/52 (I personally would go these two oils, preferably 5W30). Another excellent choice online is Motul x-clean+ 5W30 (must be +).
Amazon has Valvoline 5W30 XLIII that is MB229.51/52.
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2021
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The problem with most oils isn’t that it’s worn out as depicted by TBN. It’s usually (not always) shear, fuel, or particulate (soot) related.

Your 642 running 10k probably had any only those three. Yet, chain stretch/replacement isnt a common occurrence in Merc’s if diligence in maintenance is pursued.

10k oil changes can entail 100% city, or 5mi trips, or highway travel, or any combination. But that changes the game on when oil should or shouldn’t be changed.

Agree as above. S rated oils are an API wonderment when it comes to diesel. C Rated only.

It either comes down to what you want to run as it pertains to OE Recommended or a known oil that takes care of the job. Search would help on the latter.
 

CleanSump

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That Rotella T6 0w40 is going to clog the DPF early. Too much Sulphur and Zinc.
Each can do as he pleases. However, it is a myth that 229.51 and 229.52 oils do not have dispersants to handle the diesel soot.
It is common for Sprinters to run 500k plus miles, tough miles of stop and idle and go delivery in cities, on 229.51/52 oil.
The timing chain issue was actually timing chains that were defective, not the result of oil.
As I stated, to each his own, but myth contradicts the facts.
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2021
Messages
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That Rotella T6 0w40 is going to clog the DPF early. Too much Sulphur and Zinc.
Each can do as he pleases. However, it is a myth that 229.51 and 229.52 oils do not have dispersants to handle the diesel soot.
It is common for Sprinters to run 500k plus miles, tough miles of stop and idle and go delivery in cities, on 229.51/52 oil.
The timing chain issue was actually timing chains that were defective, not the result of oil.
As I stated, to each his own, but myth contradicts the facts.
How quickly will the DPF clog? I hear that thrown around a lot, but as usual, it’s not definitive.

I’m not trying to bust your chops just yet, so please take that as a compliment.
 
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MB went from dual-row chain to singel-row in around 2012 on the OM 642. The dual row usually last around 400.000 km, and the single-row about 100.000 km. Alot of them get changed out, it is very common. You will probably have to change it out again in some years. Not really much to do about it oil wise. Theoretically an oil with not high ZDDP levels, and a lot of moly could help, but would it make a big difference in the real world? Probably not. Some members here with good knowledge states that higher base oil visc is good for the timing chain. Programming out the EGR can be good for the OM642 in multiple ways.
 
Joined
Sep 24, 2021
Messages
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That Rotella T6 0w40 is going to clog the DPF early. Too much Sulphur and Zinc.
Each can do as he pleases. However, it is a myth that 229.51 and 229.52 oils do not have dispersants to handle the diesel soot.
It is common for Sprinters to run 500k plus miles, tough miles of stop and idle and go delivery in cities, on 229.51/52 oil.
The timing chain issue was actually timing chains that were defective, not the result of oil.
As I stated, to each his own, but myth contradicts the facts.
Dispersants are the biggie, but it is/can be an issue. Adpacks are the real concern.

ZDDP/ZDPT are really beneficial to mitigating wear.

Maintenance that you left out is what makes those Sprinters reach 500k. I know, I’ve been the small diesel game longer than many here. 350k on one.
 
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How quickly will the DPF clog? I hear that thrown around a lot, but as usual, it’s not definitive.

I’m not trying to bust your chops just yet, so please take that as a compliment.
I owned a 642 for 130k miles and used two different indies for MB only. Even they never heard of a clogged DPF. They di d hear and see a lot of sludging and wear from long oci intervals. There are so many DPF's out there now that there are a lot of cleaning services that can clean them for reasonable $$
 
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Sep 24, 2021
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Honestly, it’s Asinine to state a Modern Diesel rated oil (ACEA or API) causes DPF failure.

Dubious at best when few here know or understand why the Bluetec system has so negative (and rightly so) history.
 
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