Mazda3 oil recommendations

[DKT]

We just purchased a new Mazda3, 2.0l, manual transmission. Owner's manual say 5w20.

I plan on performing UOA, and have Terry review the results.

What are your recommendations:
1) Break in oil changes
2) Oil type

The dealership suggested that we follow the severe operating conditions which is 4,000 miles or 4 months. Our son is the primary driver, so my guess is the 4 months will prevail.

I am also unclear as to whether we go to extended changes and whether that will affect the warranty (4 years/50,000 miles). I have seen some posts that say it won't but others that people say they will stick with the owners manual until the car is out of warranty.

Any help from the experts will be greatly appreciated.

 

[TomH]

This exact topic was covered not a week ago.


http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=009633


Please use the search function of this board. It really does work quite well.

 

[DKT]

Thanks, I've use the seach before. From the attached and the attachment to that, the discussion is on the 2.3 L and 3.0 L.

I know the 2.3 L has variable valve timing. We have the 2.0 L which does not have the variable valve timing.

Do the recommendations for the 2.3 apply to the 2.0?

Also, I searched on the warranty question but did not find a a satisfactory answer, so I thought I would ask again.

Please bear with me, I'm a neophyte.

 

[TomH]

Fluid recommendations for the 2.0 are exactly the same as the 2.3, and vice-versa.

 

[TR3-2001SE]

If it where my car I would do the following. I would do several quick oil changes using any 5w20 conventional. I think Pennzoil makes one that seems to be good. Maybe 3000 miles each for these two changes. Then I would start using Mobil 1 synthetic in the 0w-20 or 5w-20. I would use the severe schedule while under warranty. After warranty you can safely go to 6000 mile changes and a 5w30 or 10w30 weight and get close to zero ware. I think 20w is a little thin but that is personal opinion. Others would say it would be OK to continue with the 5w-20.

 

[DKT]

Thanks. I've had great results using 0W20 in my Honda, so I'm comfortable with that weight.

I went to WalMart yesterday and was very disappointed in the oil selection. There were only a few 20 wt oils at all and no Mobil 1. I was planning on stocking up on the 0w20, but they didn't even have their new 5w20.

They did have the Pennzoil, so I'll probably use that on the 1st change.

 

[rpn453]

I have an 04 Mazda3 GT Sport. Here's my ramble:

I did my first change at 1000km. I don't know if it was really necessary, but I did it for piece of mind. Since then, I've been following the severe service schedule of 8000km/4mo. I wouldn't go beyond the manufacturer's recommendation just to save any potential hassle down the road if something goes wrong. I'd use any 5W-20 with the Ford WSS spec for your climate. I use Mobil 1 0W-20 in the winter, but it's being discontinued and isn't really necessary for your climate and short OCI's. I've been using Mazda filters (cartridge type). Nobody else had any yet last time I checked and at cdn$8 they were a reasonable price so I'll probably stay with those for awhile.

 

[DKT]

I did a Google search on the '04 GT, and it looks like it has the 2.3 L engine also. I don't know if the 2.0 L has the cartridge filter or not. Haven't crawled under the car to look yet. Don't remember seeing anything in the owners manual about the filter either way.

 

[bulwnkl]

quote:

---

Originally posted by DKT:
...I am also unclear as to whether we go to extended changes and whether that will affect the warranty (4 years/50,000 miles). I have seen some posts that say it won't but others that people say they will stick with the owners manual until the car is out of warranty.

---

I would suggest the following regarding OCI:
The way most warranties from every maker who sells in the USA have been written for several years, longer OCIs cannot void the warranty. The automaker would basically have to prove that such neglect caused the failure. However, consider the relative power structure in such a case. If they decide to deny a warranty claim, you would have to sue them and recover "damages."

If you are going to use UOA, you'd have proof that your OCIs were sufficient and that they did not cause the damage.

 

[DKT]

Thanks for the info on the warranty. If I understand UOA correctly, the whole purpose of UOA is to identify problems before they manifest themselves in noise, smoke, or a breakdown, so by doing UOA I would think that I would be heading off any warranty problems or identifying them before a garage might be able to.

In either case, I can't see how they could refuse the warranty request with Blackstone report supporting this, unless I was at 49,000 miles and the garage thought the problem wouldn't appear until after the 50,000 mile warranty expired. Even with this, their records would show that I requested the problem to be addressed while still in warranty.

Maybe I'm being naive, but I would think that a service manager would have a difficult time denying the request.

 

[crossbow]

As shown in the V10 engine destruction thread...manufacturers will void your warranty if you don't follow proper OCI intervals while under the warranty period.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=001196;p=1

Amsoil, redline, Mobil 1...they won't come to your aid.

Just stick to factory intervals while under the warranty period...log your mileage and keep the recepits of the oil/filter from each change.

Even with used oil analysis your still technically "breaking" the warranty contract by not following "required" maintance procedures. If you run into problems (and the L3 cartridge system is EXTREMELY vulnerable to problems), be prepared to have one **** of a fight on your hands if you've been running extended OCI's...UOA or not.

Reality is a lot harsher then pieces of paper would suggest.

[ February 14, 2005, 11:48 PM: Message edited by: crossbow ]

 

[DKT]

Thanks, great advice. I read most of the thread (skimmed the Christmas gift portion). Great read and I had visions of a Law and Order episode (but no one got murdered so it'll never make it to Hollywood).

I haven't been keeping receipts of the oil and filter purchases, but am keeping a log of changes, oil type, and filter type (on other cars and will do for this one also).

The dealership suggested (verbally) that we use the severe maintenance schedule because of the Texas heat. If through UOA I'm comfortable with the normal maintenance schedule, I would think that I would still be within warranty? Sever is 4K or 4 months, normal is 7.5K.

What do you think? Since our son is driving the car, my guess is that the oil will time out before he accumulates the miles, but just wanted your view.

Also, in the Ford story, I didn't see a history of UOA for the engine, which I think may have provided an indication of a problem or supported their position.

 

[crossbow]

Keep those recepits!!! They are the only hard evidence that your changing your oil!!! Logs don't count! They are used "alongside" the recepits to further prove that oil changes were being done.

The first thing the dealership asks for if there is a possible engine problem is oil change recepits. When a recent tribute owner brought in his car with a sludged engine, recepits were requested...he had one...that day...the only recepit in 38,000 miles.

Without them, its their word against yours, and generally, your going to lose.

I'm sure used oil analysis would suffice instead of recepits, but it isn't really hard to keep a maintance folder for your car...heck, it even improves its resale value!

As for what interval you use...thats up to you. Honestly if I was letting a young adult drive a car around, I'd probably follow the severe driving interval. Oil's cheap. You can get motorcraft 5w-20 semi-syn for under 2 bucks a qt.

 

[John in the ATL]

DKT,

The semi synthetic Motorcraft (Conoco Phillips Hydroclear) 5w-20 is a solid product. I am using in a 2004 Odyssey and have been pleased with it. This stuff meets Ford specs and exceeds Honda specs. Since Ford own 50% of Mazda, I would stick with the MC brand. Unfortunately, WalMart is not carrying anymore. I have seen it at AutoZone for less than $2 a quart.

It mentioned in a previous post; If you have to stick to the 4,000 mile severe service, this will give you good performance for a lower price than Mobil 1 xW-20.

 

[Leo]

FWIW, I think the 2.0L does have variable valve timing since its called the SVT engine. Nevertheless, in my sisters Mazda 3 we use Castrol R 5W30 (Grp 3 synth) and a 10,000km OCI.

 

[TomH]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Leo:
FWIW, I think the 2.0L does have variable valve timing since its called the SVT engine. Nevertheless, in my sisters Mazda 3 we use Castrol R 5W30 (Grp 3 synth) and a 10,000km OCI.

---

The 2.0 engine does NOT have the variable valve timing system that the 2.3 does. Link to the 3's engines on Mazda website below.

http://www.mazdausa.com/MusaWeb/dis...elsPerformancePowertrain&vehicleCode=MZ3#2_0L

 

[DKT]

Thanks all for the great advice. I'll start saving receipts, and I'm going to do the 1st change at 1,000 miles, and then 4,000 miles thereafter with dino (probably MC 5w20, or Pennzoil 5w20). I go to WalMart every week so I'll probably end up with the Pennzoil, although there is an AZ on my way home from work.

Leo, on the Mazda3 forum (Google mazda3 forum)there was a discussion of SVT, so I took the responses as gospel.

 

[bulwnkl]

quote:

---

Originally posted by crossbow:
As shown in the V10 engine destruction thread...manufacturers will void your warranty if you don't follow proper OCI intervals while under the warranty period.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=24;t=001196;p=1

Amsoil, redline, Mobil 1...they won't come to your aid.

Just stick to factory intervals while under the warranty period...log your mileage and keep the recepits of the oil/filter from each change.

Even with used oil analysis your still technically "breaking" the warranty contract by not following "required" maintance procedures. If you run into problems (and the L3 cartridge system is EXTREMELY vulnerable to problems), be prepared to have one **** of a fight on your hands if you've been running extended OCI's...UOA or not.

Reality is a lot harsher then pieces of paper would suggest.

---

That thread perfectly illustrates my point(s). Even if you had receipts for oil changes, the one who has the gold will still tell you to buzz off if they feel like it. Your oil receipts won't help you any more than the used oil analysis.