Mazda 5 2.3 - 0W-20 in winter, 5W-30 in summer?

[Number_35]

Hello all -

After years of enjoying this site, I've finally joined. I have a couple of questions regarding the choice of motor oil for one of my vehicles, a 2009 Mazda 5 2.3 l inline-4 w/ 5-speed manual. I've searched the forum, and have gotten some good ideas, but would like to ask my questions anyway.

1. The manufacturer specifies 5W-20 year round. We had a particularly harsh winter (the coldest in well over 100 years, with many days in excess of -30 C) this year, and I'd read about this well-regarded Mazda 0W-20 motor oil. I asked at the dealer, but they said that 0W-20 was not back-spec'ed to 2009, and to use only 5W-20. With only a few weeks remaining on the drivetrain warranty, I took a chance and changed over to Mobil 1 0W-20. I've found the engine a bit noisier (possibly my imagination) but wonder whether I made a good choice.
Comments? Recommendations? Would the addition of a moly additive be helpful?

2. I'm now ready to change oil again, and am wondering about whether to go back to a 5W-20, or even a 5W-30. (Per the manual, 5W-30 is fine for Mexican users, so I figure it can't hurt.) Reasons I'd consider changing:

- The little 2.3 works hard in this vehicle. At highway speed (100 km/hr), it spins at 3K.

- The 2.3 has a timing chain rather than a belt. I've read that timing chains are bad for shearing oil.

To start with a thin oil (5W-20) and have it sheared down in a hard-working engine scares me a bit - I'd feel a bit better with 5W-30 in the summer, and perhaps 0W-30 in the winter.

Unfortunately, while Mobil 1 & Pennzoil Platinum do come on sale here, the good prices are always on 5W-20, 5W-30, and 10W-30. 0W-xx is always expensive.

Anyway, I'd really appreciate hearing your thoughts.

 

[eljefino]

Your dealer likes 5w20 because it's cheap. 0w is only full synthetic.

At highway speeds you'll have tons of oil pressure and don't need it thicker. Oil will be flying around everywhere and the bearings will have lots of cushion.

 

[Rand]

if people can run 5w20 in texas I don't foresee you having a problem with it in Canada.

Spinning fast does not equal working hard.

If you track it for extended periods autocross or tow in a hilly region with it.. I'd probably use 5w30

otherwise there is no point IMO.


Funny that you mention m1 and noise in your first post.. that puts you into the possible troll category around here

 

[GreenFocus]

Welcome!
My focuc 2l na, calls for 5w20, I used pp 0w20 since last oct, the car runs fine, during winter and current summer.
If you are worried about winter starts, maybe mix 0w20 with 5w20 at ratios that let you sleep at night.
If you're worried about 5w20 shearing too much in the summer, maybe mix 5w20 with 5w30 instead of running 5w30 straight, your choice.
Quality synth 5w20 should be fine for summer, uoa might give you some peace.

 

[dparm]

Hi Number_35, there's really no reason to run thicker oil in the summer. Your car is not air cooled, it is water cooled. I'd use the 0w20 year round -- good startup performance and good fuel economy. Use whichever one is on sale and meets the manufacturer API requirements.

Mazda tests this thoroughly and would not recommend 0w20 if it couldn't work year round in the majority of climates.

 

[yvon_la]

Go with close to what mazda recommend.check me nissan recommend 5w30 in my car .i ll likely go to 0w30 at next oil change .my reason?fuel dilution (i got two injector per cylinder )if mazda say 5w 20 you should be very fine with 0w20

 

[boundarylayer]

Good responses here. Yes you can use a 0w-20 instead of 5w-20, and get better cold start performance. Mazda-brand 0w-20 is awesome. They more moly than most oils.

0w-20 year around I say, although you could use a 5w-30 in summer and it won't hurt a thing.

 

[Number_35]

Rand - I sure don't want to achieve troll status this early in my BITOG career! I've used synthetic since the mid-80s, and have very happy with Mobil 1 (which I've likely used more than any other syn). This is the 1st time I've used a 0W-x oil, and the noise surprised me a bit. I did not in any way mean to slam Mobil - it was more an observation on the 0W.

Thanks for your observation that high revs don't necessarily translate into hard work - good point!

The car (van?) is not rated for towing, but I did put a hitch on, and have hauled up to four bikes on a long highway trip. I don't think it added much stress to the engine.

 

[Number_35]

Eljefino - Good thoughts - wish the car had an oil pressure gauge. Did a bike trip in your state a few years ago - absolutely stunning!

 

[Number_35]

I may try the Mazda oil - the moly may make it quieter than the Mobil 1.

 

[sicko]

Don't worry about using a 0w-20 in your vehicle just because it wasn't back spec'ed. At operating temperatures it's a 20 weight oil just like a 5w-20, but in very cold weather it flows better. So if your car says to use a 5w-20, you can use a 0w-20 without worry.

As for Mobil 1 being a little louder in your engine, it was the same for me when I used it. Nothing excessive, but noticeable to someone who regularly drives the vehicle and knows what it previously sounded like. I had no doubt that it was protecting my vehicle just fine, so I continued using it (and the two other oil changes worth of oil I bought when it was on sale). If you're worried, then simply try a different brand of oil.

Sounds like your vehicle can use either a Xw-20 or an Xw-30 weight, use whichever one you feel most comfortable with, but based on what you said I don't think there's any reason to move up to the Xw-30. But again, go with what makes you most comfortable.

As for the 0w-XX oils costing more. Check out Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 it's cold weather performance on paper is basically like a 0w-20. It's better then most other synthetic 5w-20's, so go ahead and try that when there's a sale going on it and don't worry about paying more for a 0w-20.

 

[Number_35]

Hey Yvon - You just survived a cold winter there as well. Did you use a 0W, or are you just switching over for the first time?

 

[GumbyJarvis]

Is this a Mazda L Engine? I have the Ford Duratec 2.3L which is the same thing with Ford input.

Mine has ran on 0w20 to 10w40, Synthetic/Semi/Dino, HM/Not-HM, and has been fine.

Figure my truck would need an atomic bomb to go off inside the hood for anything bad to happen.

 

[Number_35]

Sicko - That's what I thought too, so I was surprised when the dealer wouldn't sell it to me.

Good tip on the PP 5W-20. On sale it's about half the price of 0W-20 (but still crazy expensive compared to US prices).

One other thing I should have mentioned - we got the car at 52,000 km, and it's now at 74,000. I'm a bit disappointed in the oil consumption (around a litre per 7000 km), and thought that a move to a 5W-30 might reduce it.

 

[Number_35]

GJ - Yup, same engine per Wiki. The dipstick says 'FoMoCo'. Glad to hear it's hard to kill! Does yours have the cartridge filter? I considered doing a conversion, but then bought a dozen Baldwins.

 

[GumbyJarvis]

Originally Posted By: Number_35
GJ - Yup, same engine per Wiki. The dipstick says 'FoMoCo'. Glad to hear it's hard to kill! Does yours have the cartridge filter? I considered doing a conversion, but then bought a dozen Baldwins.


Nope. mine has a spin on OF,
Now for what its worth, Id use Motorcraft 5w20 year round, and not worry about it. 5000-7500 mi OCI on motorcraft and a decent filter shouldn't be too hard.

 

[Number_35]

Didn't realize the Ranger 2.3 was from the same family - thought the truck might be using Ford's old pushrod 2.3 as used in some of their cars in the past. The Ranger is likely cammed for torque rather than top end though.

 

[Nate1979]

So, do you believe that people on this site know better than Mazda? They had full opportunity to back-spec and they didn't. While sometimes the manufacturer may choose 5w-20 instead of 0w-20 to reduce cost that doesn't matter after the fact when they back-spec. So, they must have had a reason. I would stick with their recommendation.

Second, on the 5w-30 do you believe you are using your vehicle harder than Mazda engineers tested to? If not then it won't matter either way. Unless Mazda is selling the exact same car with the exact same equipment with the exact same tuning and the exact same emission equipment then who cares what they spec'd in Mexico.

 

[CharlieJ]

You will be fine with 0w-20 year round in the 2.3. I do 7k intervals with M1 0w-20. in my 2.3. That may be conservative, but it takes me over a year to reach. I thought that the m1 0w-20 made this engine quieter.

 

[KrisZ]

If your car has troubles starting, i.e. turning over in -30 temps, oil type and 0wXX weight will make little difference if any. Check your battery.
My cars went through the same winter just fine on 5w20 and 5w30 dino oils.