Managing surface rust on my 98 S-10

[demarpaint]

I would once again recommend proper prep, spot priming and painting the offending areas before applying an oil or rustproofing compound. Products like FF eventually wash off allowing rust to spread again. By properly preparing and touching up the areas as I and others mentioned will yield better long term results. Pick your favorite method for removing the loose rust and go for it.

 

[Trav]

The easy way is to wire wheel or scrape then treat it with rust mort. Use etching primer then paint and rustproof. The right way is to pull the cross member and sand blast it, etch prime and paint it, ditto the body mount or replace them with new ones. The small spot on the floor use a spot sand blaster, etch prime and paint then rustproof. No big deal removing the torsion bars, once they are out the cross member will come right out. Blasting or phosphoric acid dipping is the only to remove rust from the metal.

 

[Ducked]

http://bangernomics.editboard.com/t676-coke-can-for-brake-drums http://bangernomics.editboard.com/t178-treating-topsides-rust Worked nicely on my rusty brake caliper too. Its not incompatible with wire brushing first, but I havn't done that so far.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint

I would once again recommend proper prep, spot priming and painting the offending areas before applying an oil or rustproofing compound. Products like FF eventually wash off allowing rust to spread again. By properly preparing and touching up the areas as I and others mentioned will yield better long term results. Pick your favorite method for removing the loose rust and go for it.

Agreed. I would not just coat it in a rustproofing material without dealing with the metal underneath.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: JHZR2

Originally Posted By: demarpaint

I would once again recommend proper prep, spot priming and painting the offending areas before applying an oil or rustproofing compound. Products like FF eventually wash off allowing rust to spread again. By properly preparing and touching up the areas as I and others mentioned will yield better long term results. Pick your favorite method for removing the loose rust and go for it.

Agreed. I would not just coat it in a rustproofing material without dealing with the metal underneath.

People do, it depends on what kind of job you're looking to do. You're interested in a longer lasting job which is what prompted my suggestions. Trav spec'd out some good products to use, and how he'd handle it. His advise is spot on. For that type of work I use industrial maintenance products which are easily sourced for me, and under a car work quite well too. I didn't mention names of products to avoid possible confusion.

 

[JHZR2]

I'll plan to do this in the summer when there are longer stretches without rain. I'll look into Rust Mort and Ospho (both phosphoric acid converters), to address what I don't grind/brush. Then go on from there. Is there anything I need to know about pulling torsion bars, and perhaps more importantly, replacing them while in my back in my driveway? I'm assuming I'll need to realign after?

 

[SatinSilver]

I'd follow Trav's advice or let him tackle it if at all possible. If you want to keep this truck a long time then use some of the best products along with his expertise. The body panels should be treated since they usually rust from the inside out. Does the truck sit on concrete or on gravel? I wonder if that contributes to the corrosion. Since the moisture in the ground prob isn't the best thing for rust resistance. You can use up the FF on the newer cars, the Hondas and BMW.