M1ext 15k 5-30 9000mi Ford 4L V 6

[flux]

This is my first UOA on my 2003 Explorer. I bought the car used with 15k and immediately
changed to Mobil 1. I've been running OCI's
of approx 6k with Napa Gold filters. I use
no oil between OCI's. My mileage at this UOA
was 47.000.

I recently changed to Mobil 1's 15.000 ext.
oil. I ran this OCI to 9000mi and received
this analysis.

Aluminum 9/4
Chromium 1/1
Iron 32/15
Copper 1/6
Lead 0/3
Tin 1/1
Molybdenum 68/55
Nickel 0/0
Manganese 1/1
Silver 0/0
Titanium 0/0
Potassium 0/2
Boron 112/52
Silicon 8/9
Sodium 8/11
Calcium 2712/2084
Magnesium 15/168
Phosphorus 733/729
Zinc 865/872
Barium 0/1

Comments: In the first sample from your
explorer we found excessive aluminum and iron
wear. These elements combined lead us to
believe that your engine may not be enjoying
the long oil changes, and is possibly suffering
from piston scuffing.

Universal averages are based on an oil change of
4.800mi. The oil contained no moisture, fuel or
coolant, which could have led to the excessive
wear. TBN read 2.8, still showing some additive.
Try 4.000mi to flush some of the excess wear
from the system.

From this report i'm not going to attempt any
more 9k oil changes with M1 extended 15k. I'll
follow their instructions and get another UOA
OCI after next, at 5000 mi.

Does anyone else have any suggestions or
opinions on this analysis. I neglected to add
that this analysis was based on 90% hwy and 10%
town.

Thank You...

 

[The Critic]

I'm not seeing any problems here...the Al is a bit on the higher side but certainly isn't alarming.

Fe seems "typical" of the American V6 engines but could be better.

Some Ford 4.0L V6 engines had timing chain issues and elevated Fe is directly correlated to this, so you may want to investigate further.

Next time, get the $50 Premium Kit from Dyson Analysis (www.dysonanalysis.com) and they'll give you a professional interpretation and alert you of any mechanical issues.

 

[oilyriser]

What time span was this? Mobil guarantees their oil for 15k or one year.

 

[flux]

We're looking at 6mos for me to roll 9k.

 

[sootyoil]

Amsoil XL7500 series oil has an excellent reputation with Dysonanalysis.com
plus price is comparable to M1

 

[buster]

I would first check your air filter for any leaks and run another sample. Si is low, but I've seen reports where it is low but dirt is still getting through.

 

[Triple_Se7en]

Perhaps more Synthetic base with the EP versus the regular M-1, but the add pack of the EP is weaker than the regular M-1 here.

Seems odd comparing the two - since the regular M-1 is a premium & the EP is a super-premium.

 

[oilyriser]

I wonder if you could get your money back if you could prove the oil was spent before 15k/1yr.

 

[LargeCarMan]

Levels look normal to me. I really believe that 10K is a good round number to change out any synthetic oil in a V/8 /V6 engine.

Do as Buster say's and change out the air-cleaner. I would limit your OCI's to 10K...heck, you still had 2.8 TBN? and all wear metals were in the normal range...what more can you ask for?

oilriser...bet this oil could go to 15K and still have some TBN left in it...Mobil would deny the claim without going to 15K and proving it did not have the juice to do it.

 

[TooSlick]

Oil is not depleted chemically and the silicon level is low; the oil itself has about 4 ppm of polymeric silicone as an anti-foam additive.

I don't think going to shorter OCI's is necessarily going to affect these wear rates much, if at all. I believe these newer Ford engines have Al based bearings and some of the Al is coming from those.


TS

 

[Brons2]

My Ford (don't have it anymore) got much better analysis results with $1.07 Chevron Supreme 10w30 dino than M1 5w30. Both were ran 5000 miles.

Is your V6 the SOHC or OHV?

 

[TooSlick]

I'd recommend the German Castrol, 0w-30 here...I think you'll see significantly lower Fe levels.

TS

 

[flux]

Thank's for the input on my UOA. I've lurked on
here for quite some time, as is obvious, but I
respect the brain trust that exists here.

As far as my UOA goes, it's nothing to jump up
and down about, but as I read it, it might not
be horrible either. Different motors sometimes
give different results, even with good oil.

The engine is a SOHC, and I changed the air
cleaner (no obvious leaks and it looked good).

I think that what i'm going to do now is give it
an AutoRx, it's just under 50k, with a good
dino 5-30. If I read the faq's right on RX,
they recommend a dino for the flush, and I
don't have a problem with that.

If a dino is what it takes with this engine to
get good UOA's, that's what i'll use. I was
thinking about moving closer to the dark side,
and putting in Red Line or Royal Purple, but
time will tell.

For my RX flush with this engine, what do you
guys recommend? I've always been partial to
Castrol dino, and have had good luck with the
oil for the past 30yrs.

I'd like to stay in grade with the recommended
oil (5-30) per manufacturer, but i'm open to
good advice and recommendations.

Thanks for your help.... Rick

 

[LargeCarMan]

Good decision Rick...but in Oregon, go for the 10-30 Castrol...I understand it is robust.

However, Personally, I like the Chevron products that Brons2 speaks about. Either Castrol or Chevron products will work with the flush.

Then try the German Castrol 0-30.......
TS speaks volumes of wisdom.

 

[lt1man]

WHen you think about it, he went 9,000 miles, his old results he went 6,000 miles, im not going to take the time to due the math, so higher wear should be normal.

I cant wait to change my oil in a couple of months on the Saturn, 5W-30 Mobil1 EP, K&N filter, I idle it, drive it hard, and the RPM's are usually pretty high cruising down the higway, I've got 5,000 miles and added 1.5 quarts of make up oil, I just added 1/2 quart today, in fact its a little over full.

 

[flux]

I just happened to have some 10-w 30 Castrol
on hand, so i'll use that for my flush. My
older Chevron 10-w 30 is about 3 yrs old and
SL rated.