M1 vs. PUP Observations

Originally Posted by buster
I wouldn't do it. I have no interest in running an oil 20k miles. If I were in sales and putting on a lot of miles in a car I didn't care much about I'd consider it.

What I do like about the claims made is though is gives you some level of confidence in the product you're buying. An oil designed to handle longer drains is going to have to be made up of good, premium components. You get what you pay for. Someone people want the best, but only want to pay $2qt. Not gonna happen unless you get a clearance blowout.

You just created a monster Buster.
Someone will be here shortly to exclaim they get 21K on every oil change with Supertech.
 
Originally Posted by spasm3
I'm surprised that they still advertise a 20k interval, with the rise of DI engines, at least without a disclaimer. You would think they would limit it to MPFI engines.

Well, sort of. If you read the fine print you have to start using M1 within, If I remember correctly, the first 5k miles of a new vehicle. Then it goes on to say you have to follow the manufacturers oil change recommendations and at least once a year.
 
My point also - why would pushing 20k OCI's be of emphasis now, with the switchover from MPFI engines to GDI engines well underway? Makes no sense.

If the base stock is so good, is it too good for an oil that has to be dumped due to exceeded contamination limits?
 
So can you tell us how many of each are on the road with the average car being 10+

Also, many that buy the 15k oils run it for 10k … If the new 20k comes in at $28 ? I'd expect the same to happen …
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted by buster
I wouldn't do it. I have no interest in running an oil 20k miles. If I were in sales and putting on a lot of miles in a car I didn't care much about I'd consider it.

What I do like about the claims made is though is gives you some level of confidence in the product you're buying. An oil designed to handle longer drains is going to have to be made up of good, premium components. You get what you pay for. Someone people want the best, but only want to pay $2qt. Not gonna happen unless you get a clearance blowout.

You just created a monster Buster.
Someone will be here shortly to exclaim they get 21K on every oil change with Supertech.


Just seems like basic common sense. You could run Supertech for 20k. The engine would look awful internally and oxidation would be through the roof lol.
 
Originally Posted by 4WD
So can you tell us how many of each are on the road with the average car being 10+

Also, many that buy the 15k oils run it for 10k … If the new 20k comes in at $28 ? I'd expect the same to happen …


Right. I'd rather put in an oil over-engineered for my needs for peace of mind. I ran conventional Vavoline too far one time in a Honda 2.4L and he left varnish behind. If I had put Mobil 1 in it, that would not have happened.

A lot of engines are still not GDI. For what it's worth, Mobil tested the AP oils in Turbo GDI engines. Of course there was a lot of highway miles on them, but it can be done. Ideal? Probably not.
 
The market has spoken and M1 AP is too costly. EP already has an established track record and is established in the market. Same with Modern Engine. High cost. Probably worked but no one wants to make the investment. This is where boutique brands come in and pick up the share...


https://www.mobil.com/en/lubricants...-1-annual-protection-lasts-one-full-year

"The proof of performance team put Mobil 1 Annual Protection to the test to ensure it met the highest standards we have ever had for motor oil performance, wear protection and durability," said ExxonMobil engineer Pawel Bialota. To simulate beyond-extreme annual driving conditions, a 120,000-mile proof of performance test was carried out at the ExxonMobil Research and Engineering facility in Paulsboro, New Jersey. Three vehicles - all featuring turbocharged, direct-injection engines, which are notoriously tough on oil - were tested:
2015 Chevrolet Malibu LT, 2.0L TGDI
2015 Lexus NX 200t, 2.0 L Turbo
2016 Ford Fusion SE, 1.5 L EcoBoost

The proof of performance testing included putting 120,000 miles on each vehicle, and then inspecting, rating and photographing the engines to document the oil's performance. Each vehicle endured a severe duty test cycle on a mileage accumulation dynamometer, and operated under a combination of incline and towing conditions with oil changes every 20,000 miles.
 
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
My 2004 Colorado had a blinking Oil Change light on the dash. When new, it finally blinked at 13.2k. It seems the average time for all follow-up blinks was at 10.3k.
I regularly changed the oil every 5K and ignored the blink, until it appeared. Then I would re-set it.

We have absolutely nothing about oil changes on our Kia or Hyundai. Maybe S. Korea doesn't care about oil.

*Triple_Se7en : Agreed - why is that ? ... I set my Sonata OCI manually for 4 months / 4,000 miles ... After the COVID-19 hit in March my car just sat in the drive way for a couple of months - now the service minder indicates I'm due for an oil change in 11 days and I have like 700 miles on this oil change ... I think I'll wait (lol !)
 
事实上美孚的诺克蒸发值更低,大约在6.8,而彭斯要达到9.3
MOBIL EP 0W20.jpg
PUP 0W20.jpg
 
PUP was louder than M1 EP in both my Ford and GM engine … tried 5W30 in both …
After that, found M1 0w40 to be quietist …
(used a DB meter) …
Pennzoil synthetic oils are on the lighter side of a 5W30 versus M1 synthetic oils ... Could explain noise and oil consumption.
 
The Noack of presumably Mobil 1 0w20 EP showing 6.8% doesn't seem right. What is this from?
The oil was purchased from Wal-Mart, and the testing was done by ConocoPhillips’ laboratory in Jiangmen.
In fact, Mobil Motor Oil's Nok is very good,whether it is EP AP FS or AFE, except for ESP. But apart from AP, the shear stability is very general, about 10%.PUP is much more powerful in this respect.
The EP oil of 10W30 is not in the scope of discussion, all its indicators are great, except for CCS
 
I used PP exclusively in a vehicle I bought with 29k miles on it. Around 140k it began to use abnormal amounts of oil and somewhat noisy cold starts. Eventually it ran itself 3 quarts low quicker than I could catch it with oil checks every few weeks and spun a rod bearing. I would never say this was evidence of anything regarding PP, just stating what happened to me. Also, Pennzoil syn oils are very thin for their grade. Coincidence? We'll never know. It may have been even worse with another oil for all I know.
 
I used PP exclusively in a vehicle I bought with 29k miles on it. Around 140k it began to use abnormal amounts of oil and somewhat noisy cold starts. Eventually it ran itself 3 quarts low quicker than I could catch it with oil checks every few weeks and spun a rod bearing. I would never say this was evidence of anything regarding PP, just stating what happened to me. Also, Pennzoil syn oils are very thin for their grade. Coincidence? We'll never know. It may have been even worse with another oil for all I know.
What kind’ve car was this and what weight of oil?
 
I have excellent UOA results with Valvoline, PP, PUP, M1, Amsoil and Amazon Basics in all our 3 vehicles with no oil consumption at all. I get what ever is on the shelf at Walmart but have been favoring Pennzoil because I like yellow. My Amsoil dealer retired after 15 years of doing business with him but pausing for a couple of years since he had a stroke and was undergoing rehab.
 
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