M1 Ow30 and 0w40 which one?

[SEBZX79]

Hello every one,
I ran M1 0w40 all spring and summer long. Now winter is comming and I am thinking that going down to a 0w30 might be a good idea.
This is for a 2k DCX Cirrus wit the 2.5l V6.
The car ran great on M1 0w40 with OCI of 6-10k miles.
Which one is better? I live in NJ.

 

[Jelly]

Stick with M1 0w-40.

 

[SEBZX79]

Any reason why? is it better?

 

[Dr. T]

You could use either one since they're both 0W oils. That said, the 0-40 is better oil because it has better specs....do not change at less than 5k...and it can probably do 10...

 

[williar]

Actually, the top number (30 or 40) is more dominant than the winter (0) number until about 0F is reached. The numbers were posted recently on this forum. IMHO, the 0w30 would be the better choice of the two for wintertime use in your situation.

 

[haley10]

You won't have any cold crank issues in Jersey with either one.

I wouldn't hesitate to try the 0W-30 at all. The MRV will be better at frigid temps. and it M1's thickest 30wt. @ 100C.

Actually with your engine, I would try the 0W-30 and change it in the Spring.

I think the only reason people say the 40 is better is that, Jersey is a mild climate and if you want to push oci's the 40 is rated, but I don't like to extend after Winter too much myself.

My vote goes to the 0W-30 for this one now that it's gonna get cold.

 

[haley10]

quote:

---

Originally posted by williar:
Actually, the top number (30 or 40) is more dominant than the winter (0) number until about 0F is reached. The numbers were posted recently on this forum. IMHO, the 0w30 would be the better choice of the two for wintertime use in your situation.

---

Much truth to what you say. I run GC.

Some of the Mitsu engines prefer a bit lighter viscosity, however and thrive on light 30wt's pretty good.

 

[Jelly]

quote:

---

Originally posted by SEBZX79:
Any reason why? is it better?

---

Yes, M1 0w-40 is a better oil than M1 0w-30.

On top of this, you're alredy running it and have experienced "great" results.

M1 0w-30:
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -54

Mobil 1 0W-30 meets or exceeds the following industry specifications
ACEA A1,A5,B1,B5
API SL,SJ,EC,CF
ILSAC GF3
Ford WWS M2C913-A/B
General Motors GM 4718M

M1 0w-40:
Pour Point, ºC, ASTM D 97 -54

Mobil 1 0W-40 meets or exceeds the following industry specifications:
ACEA A3,B3,B4
API SL,SJ,EC,CF
ILSAC GF3

Mobil 1 0W-40 has the following builder approvals:
BMW LL-01
Daimler Chrysler 229.3/229.5
Opel Long Life Service Fill GM-LL-A-025
Opel Diesel Service Fill GM-LL-B-025
Porsche Approved
Volkswagen 502.00/505.00,503.01

Sure, 0w-30 will have the advantage in SUPER cold temperatures, but you're not going to be stressing out the 0w-40's cold temperature properties either.

Use Mobil 1 0w-40.

 

[Motorbike]

Another vote for the A5/B5 0w-30 in that engine where it's located over the winter for superior performance under the conditions to come .


Brrrr cold .

 

[buster]

Run the 0w-30 in the winter, and 0w-40 in the summer. It will be COLD this winter in NJ. The whole East coast is set to have a very cold winter.

 

[williar]

While M1 0w40 may be generally superior to M1 0w30 in most cases, for wintertime usage M1 0w30 may be preferable in may applications. Here's the data from the Mobil1 website; note particularly the Kinematic, cSt @ 40°C, and how it is similar to the 5w30 & 10w30. So what do you need in the winter, a 40w oil or a 30w oil?


Typical Characteristics
Mobil 1 With SuperSyn™

SAE Grade 0W-40, 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, 15W-50
Product Number 48149-9, 48116-8, 48111-9, 48117-6, 48120-0
API Service
Classification SL/CF, SL/CF, SL/CF, SL/CF, SL/CF
ILSAC none, GF-3, GF-3, GF-3, none
ACEA A3/B3/B4-02,
A1/B1 and A5/B5,
A1/B1 and A5/B5,
A1/B1 and A5/B5,
A3/B3/B4-02
Gravity, API 33.6, 34.5, 32.8, 30.8, 32.5
Specific Gravity 0.857, 0.852, 0.862, 0.872, 0.863
Pour Point, °C (°F) -54° (-65°), -54° (-65°), -48° (-54°), -45° (-49°), -45° (-49°)
Flash Point, ASTM D 92, °C (°F) 232° (450°), 232° (450°), 235° (455°), 235° (455°), 255° (491°)

Viscosity Cold Cranking, cP @ °C
4,301 @ -35°
3,800 @ -35°
3,600 @ -30°
3,848 @ -25°
5,234 @ -20°

Cold Pumping, cP @ °C
21,700 @ -40°
23,800 @ -40°
23,900 @ -35°
10,250 @ -30°
14,050 @ -25°

Kinematic, cSt @ 40°C 80.3, 54.8, 53.7, 61.3, 124.7
Kinematic, cSt @ 100°C 14.4, 10.1, 9.7, 9.8, 17.4
Pumpability Limit, °C (°F) -47° (-53°), -50° (-58°), -46° (-51°), -41° (-42°), -37° (-35°)
Viscosity Index 185, 176, 169, 145, 155
Energy Conserving -- Yes Yes Yes --

 

[gnosis]

Um, actually the northeast is forecasted to have an average temp winter.

http://www.cpc.ncep.noaa.gov/produc...son/13_seasonal_outlooks/color/churchill.html

Eh, whatever.

 

[427Z06]

Run the 0w-30 in the winter, and 0w-40 in the summer. (Hey, anyone else notice the echo in here)

 

[Gary Allan]

There you go ..6month oci. Simple ...the "flex" fill. Every spring ..put in 0w-40 ..every fall 0w-30. You're covered every way to Tuesday and life is good.

 

[Drew99GT]

In New Jersey, will you even ever get to a temp that will test either oil? I'm with Jelly. 0w-40 is the better oil. You won't gain a thing in New Jersey's climate by going with the 0w-30.

 

[Ugly3]

Mobil 1 5w30 the year around and forget about it.

 

[MGBV8]

Once engine is warm will the oil temp not be at similar temperature summer or winter. Water temperature is controlled by themostat which influences sump temperature but oil temperature within engine will be a lot higher and less influenced by sump temperature and engine is still producing same energy. In hot climates if sump temperature rises 0.3degC for 1.0deg increase in ambient there may be more of a need to change spec.

What temperature variance is required for a change in oil spec for very cold or very hot climates?

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by MGBV8:
Once engine is warm will the oil temp not be at similar temperature summer or winter.

---

Not really. I'm already noticing my oil temps are lower in my Corvette now that it's getting below 30F a few mornings. For instance, this morning at 28F outside, my oil temp was at 198F after driving for a while on the highway at 70mph. In the summertime, that same type of driving would give me 205-207F oil temps. So I suspect once it gets even colder out, I may not see it go much above 190F on the highway.

 

[Dr. T]

Yup...

Patman is confirming why some manuals accept a 30W up to a certain temperature and then thicker oil weights are spec'd thereafter...simply because oil temps are influenced on both ends (hot and cold) with exterior ambient temps.

 

[nails24]

SEBZX79-

I ran M1 0W30 in the 02 winter and 0W40 in the 03 winter in Oshkosh, WI. I only drive this vehicle (see belew) in the winter. I mainly switched to 0W40 so the 40W would keep my turbo bearings happy. The 1.8l Turbo is known for "clicking" noises when oil pressure is insuffient. I never heard this noise even during -20F temps and the vehicle was sitting outside without heat aid at 1am when I go to work. My worst enemy was my cold battery.

Chad
87 Subaru GL10 AWD Turbo 5 speed