M1 HM vs VML

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I was doing some research on M1 High Mileage and Valvoline Full Synthetic with Maxlife...both in 5w-30 flavor. Problem is that all the thread I kept coming across were several years old. I tried to revive one to avoid cluttering up things with a topic that's probably been discussed many times. But apparently that is frowned upon.

But it seems like a few things have changed over the years and it might be worth discussing. And please, no cynics. Just civil discussion.

So here goes....those 2 oil in that weight are what I would like to discuss. '15 Toyota Tacoma with a 4.0 V6....5k OCs with either an M1 or Fram Ultra filter....whichever is available and/or on sale. As I approach and soon pass 100k I am considering a HM oil. The rig has spent most of it's life on vanilla M1 or Valvoline Synthetic. A couple of M1 Truck and SUV changes when I found it for cheap.

From what I can gather....Maxlife is the granddaddy of HM oils. M1 HM was a very robust product at one time, but may have been watered down some to meet SN/SN Plus requirements....and greatly reduced zinc levels too. In fact, it's zinc levels are the same as vanilla M1 according to their site.

If I remember right...VML has a viscosity of 10.8 @ 100°C and M1 is at 11.7.

So what do you experts think? Is the heavier weight of the M1 a plus for it? Is there more to all this than a layman like myself needs to know?
 
No it doesn't. But what the argument that once a vehicle has some age and mileage on it that a HM oil is a good preventive of such things. I've heard many people imply that.
 
Well, if you're going to go the HM route, I'd probably lean towards Valvoline. Reason being, they are the only manufacture of a HM oil that states you can use it in a new car. This suggests to me that they use some unique seal conditioner rather than a sweller type (usually some type of ester).
 
Is the difference of 10.8 vs 11.7 mean much? Will the M1 provide some marginally better protection at higher temps because of that?
 
I will say this, in my almost 50 years of driving I have never used a HM oil. The most preventive thing you can do is change your oil regularly and use a good quality oil to boot.

As far as picking between those two, your engine won’t know the difference.
 
I guess I look at it this way. If these oils are a bit on the heavier side and their additive packs are even a little bit beneficial....why not run them in an engine with with some miles on it....especially since there doesn't seem to be a price premium anymore? I can find either of them....particularly the M1 for about the same price as the vanilla version.

So that's why I started this thread.....to be educated. I'm just a regular DIY guy. I'm not worried about this or dwelling on it even a little bit. Just thought, if I have an oil question or curiosity....whatbetter place to ask?
 
Back to the 10.8 vs 11.7. I don't know if that's considered a big difference. And if it is....is there benefit from the heavier one
 
I prefer Valvoline, but if you do not consume any oil, you will not notice a difference between brands. I bought my scion used (2az-fe known oil burner through piston rings). I tried Mobil1 AFE 0w20, Euro 0w40, and HM 5w20 (each with a 3k mile OCI). I used approx. one quart of oil every 1,500 miles. I tried the older bottle design Valvoline Full Synthetic Maxlife 0w20 and the car used one quart of oil every 2,500 miles. I did two 5k OCI's with Valvoline HM 0w20. I switched to Maxlife synthetic blend 5w30 and my car uses one quart every 4,500 miles.

It is literally
Coke or Pepsi
- unless you have a problem with your car you are trying to cover up.
 
“... may have been watered down some to meet SN/SN Plus requirements....and greatly reduced zinc levels too. In fact, it's zinc levels are the same as vanilla M1 according to their site.”
The reduction in zinc is a result of the reduction in zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) to meet API standards and not poison catalytic converters.

All API-approved oils did it.

There is no advantage to increasing additive levels as mileage accumulates.

Using a HM oil if your engine is not leaking oil, using oil, and otherwise performing fine on whatever your using now serves no purpose.
 
Ok....I understand what most of you are saying. But no one has answered the weight question (if that's the correct term). VML = 10.8 vs M1 = 11.7 at 100°C. Does that matter? Is that a significant difference? Would the heavier oil provide any better protection? We get some really hot summers....and as I said, I do a lot of highway driving. So frequently sustained speeds
 
I have used valvoline maxlife almost exclusively since around the year 2000, in blend and in full syn 0w20, 5w20, 5w30 and 10w30.

Bob Arnzen in the post above states it serves no purpose if not leaking or burning !

Will it does serve a purpose its oil your engine needs it so why not !

I used the syn blend in a new ranger and a new kia spectra . nine years in the ranger and 13 years in the kia when sold neither one burned a drop of oil or leaked either , not saying a regular syn would not have had the same results, but my own experience sold me on the maxlife. and it was 5w30.

I now run the full syn maxlife 5w30 in the mustang. and saturn. no leaks no consumption.

does the 10.8 or 11.7 make a difference, sorry can't help with that.
 
Mobil 1 is 11.9, the extended performance hm is 11.8.
I have the mobil 1 5w 30 hm in mine now.
I can say engine it smooth and quiet, I used vhm also in the past.
No bad things to say about either.
If its real cold where your at the valvoline may flow a little faster. I cant remmember what the cold viscosity of both are
 
The thing that kinda got me thinking about it was a discussion with a coworker. He has an '08 Tacoma 4.0 with 310k miles on it. At 125k he switched to PP HM. He claims zero oil usage or leakage.

Never been a Penzoil guy. Always M1 or Valvoline. That's why I asked about those brands
 
Can't go wrong with either :)

Napa has their house brand on sale this month, which is made by Valvoline. Only $3.59/qt for the HM version
 
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