M1 extended performance vs regular M1?

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I just bought a gallon jug of M1 5W-30 extended performance, since regular M1 was sold out at walmart for the past few weeks. I was wondering if it was acctually worth the money ($5 more) and what the benefits are.

I'm 5,500 miles into my oil change in my 2002 honda accord 2.3L with 92,XXX miles on the clock.
 
Rum:

Whether or not the added expense of the EP is "worth it" or not entirely depends upon what's important to you and what $5 means to you. If you're a neurosurgeon, and you use piles of $5 and $10 bills as fireplace kindling, well then the actual benefit of EP is a bargain. If you're struggling to make ends meet, maybe not. Also, if you're not going to press the oil into the longer-range OCIs, you're going to miss out on one of the main benefits of the product -- it's "extended" performance. Unless you really are doing long-ish OCIs or just want the n-th degree of quality, buy the std M1 when you can, use EP if you feel like it (or that's all that's there), and don't lose any sleep over it.
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My question is why was a gallon of the EP $5 more than the regular M1? The EP doesn't cost $1.25 more per quart than the regular stuff. At our Wally-World the regular M1 sells for about $5.68 a quart, while the EP sells for $6.22.
 
The "gallon" jugs you get a Wally World are NOT a gallon (4 qts). They are 5 quarts. I have yet to find anywhere that sells 4 qts of oil in a jug.
 
The 5-quart jug is priced for volume-discounting. The EP quart bottle is priced closer to the regular M-1 because it's a lower volume, slower-moving item that's not normally multi-quart purchases.
 
What makes one oil rated for 15k oci, and the other not?

What is in the EP that lets Mobil claim it'll last longer then the regular Mobil 11.
 
There was another thread about this several months ago. As I recall, Terry Dyson stated:
a) The NON EP versions of M1 are not impressive, with the exception of M1 5W-20, which is good.
b) The M1 EP versions of M1 are robust.
 
Did you read the Mobil website? You're getting 50% more PAO to handle the extended drain intervals. Something is worth what one is willing to pay. If you change your oil every 15,000 miles, I would say it's worth it. Whether you do or not is your opinion.
 
YES and NO! Anymore you need a program to keep the information straight!!
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This to me is good and bad. However,

to me it gets down to three major sign posts:

1. Does it meet your oem engines specifications
2. Does it offer a significant benefit
3. Is it competitive, cost per mile

Unless one REALLY runs a SEVERE life cycle, there is not much reason why a Honda can not do the NORMAL OCI with conventional oil. So a synthetic like Mobil One should as a min be able to run the normal OCI with almost no oil analysis concerns.

So for example on a 2004 Honda Civic, I ran an oem recommended normal 10,000 mile OCI, with 5w20 conventional (factory filled) oil. I currently run 0w20 Mobil One and am on track for a 20,000 mile OCI. It runs like the proverbial top.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Larry the Cable Guy:

quote:

Originally posted by sxg6:

quote:

Originally posted by wantin150:
The "gallon" jugs you get a Wally World are NOT a gallon (4 qts). They are 5 quarts. I have yet to find anywhere that sells 4 qts of oil in a jug.

Many autozone's and advance auto parts stores sell oil in 4qt jugs.


K-Mart does also.
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Thanks for the picture or I would never have believed it. Everyday is a learning experience.
 
If you get 50% more PAO with EP does that make regular Mobil 1 only 66% PAO?
Is Mobil 1 really a synthetic blend?

It is actually 50% more SuperSyn.

Proprietary formulation with 50 percent more SuperSyn helps keep engines running like new
 
quote:

Proprietary formulation with 50 percent more SuperSyn helps keep engines running like new

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Wonder how people (and engines) got along before Supersyn came along?
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Take care, bill
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quote:

Originally posted by Bill in Utah:
Wonder how people (and engines) got along before Supersyn came along?
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Take care, bill
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Bill, They didn't. 1000,000 miles or more out of an engine in cars in the 1970s and before was rare.
 
quote:

Originally posted by MatchboxCar:

quote:

Originally posted by Bill in Utah:
Wonder how people (and engines) got along before Supersyn came along?
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Take care, bill
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Bill, They didn't. 1000,000 miles or more out of an engine in cars in the 1970s and before was rare.


please
really ?


In 1972 there were big changes, but none of them were very good ones from a performance minded point of view. There were only 2 V8 engine options, the 302 and the 351, and the horsepower range dipped to 140 to 275. There was actually no real change in power output, but it was a government mandated change in performance testing which accounted for the drop in listed output, and that caused major sales loss for the Mustang, as well as the rest of the performance car market. The drop of the big block also caused the drop of the Boss Mustang, and the Mach1 was once again the premium performance model. The luxury minded Mustang Grande was still offered, and in addition to those trim lines, the Mustang Sprint was added to commemorate the 1972 Olympics. These Sprint models were all white, with blue rocker panels, blue hood stripes, blue seat inserts, and a USA logo on the quarter glass. Even with this special edition, sales dipped to just 125,813, the lowest of any year during the classic Mustang era.

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quote:

Originally posted by MatchboxCar:

quote:

Originally posted by Bill in Utah:
Wonder how people (and engines) got along before Supersyn came along?
confused.gif


Take care, bill
biggthumbcoffe.gif


Bill, They didn't. 1000,000 miles or more out of an engine in cars in the 1970s and before was rare.


My dad had a 1965 Chev Truck with a straight 6 and 3 on the tree. Still running with about 218k on the clock BEFORE the speedo died about 8 years ago. The guy who bought it from him about 25 years ago just replaced the wood in the bed! The wood prob cost more than the truck is worth on the market..
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Moms 1965 Dodge Station Wagon(318 V8) had almost 200k on it when it rusted out.(and rusted out it was...
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) Engine was fine...

My uncles 1970 Chev Van with a 305 V8 (maybe it's a 307?) has over 200k and is running fine in the high desert of Bishop CA. (It looks great)

Sorry, but if people took care of cars, they lasted just fine.
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With todays engines and excellent conventional oils, 200k is no problem at all. Just broken in...
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Oh, and not one of the engines above needed SuperSyn to run.
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Take care, bill
biggthumbcoffe.gif
 
The best thing about the EP is not having to mess with changing your oil near as often.I ran it in our old 2003 Explorer up until 65,000 miles.Sometimes it went a little over 15,000 some times a little under. Ran like new when I sold it. The new one is going to get the same treatment. Its coming up for it's first change at 5,000 miles. In with the EP for 15,000 mile changes.And no I'm not worried about any warranty problems. In the extremley unlikely event that I had a problem I seriously doubt it would be the EP.If ever needed I have loads of receipts for my other cars.
 
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