M1 "extended performance" oil

Messages
8
Location
las vegas
I just bought 5 qts M1 5-30 EP for my wife's 2008 Nissan Versa, 24K mi. (also got the M1 EP filter on a $34.99 deal at Auto Zone). I am wondering if this oil can really go the 15000 miles it claims and "guarantees". Any of you have any experience with this oil or filter??
 
Messages
13,016
Location
Middlesex County CT
Do not extend past mfg recommended interval if still under warranty. In answer to your question there are a few that have run this oil past the 15K mark in a Toyota V8; the length you can reasonably run it without worrying is dependent on driving style and engine. 20K on the oil for this guy, with a bit of oil added as makeup http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2098531&page=1 I just filled my friends 2002 tundra with this oil and will not touch the vehicle until next april or so.
 
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Messages
7,930
Location
Hudson, NH
The oil can, the question is can your car go that far? Not a slam on other oils, but my experience with Mobil 1 is it churns up leftovers and gets dark pretty fast the first couple of runs. Suggest you set the first one to 5-6k, see how it goes.
 
Messages
4,574
Location
Merritt Island FL, USA
You don't want to run any oil 15k right off the bat nor would I run an oil 10k, without UOA. Run the oil 7,500 and get a UOA. Go from there. It also depends on what engine you have, what condition it is in and how old it is. Complicated stuff. The M1 EP states on the bottle to follow manufacturer recommended intervals while under warranty.
 
Messages
17,298
Location
OH
This thing is three years old and only has 24K? So it gets driven 8K each year? In a climate that never sees cold? You could probably go a year on M1 EP. It does have high virgin TBN and good TBN retention. A UOA would provide some assurance, but 8K or one year on this oil should be doable. I don't think I'd go beyond that without a UOA or two, just to show how the oil is holding up in this application. Having said that, there is at least one member here who has run plain vanilla M1 10K in various engines over many years who has only good results to report and has never bothered with a UOA.
 
Messages
2,400
Location
In The Region Between
If you do enough miles to keep out the moisture from the oil, and drive in a place with not too much dust, yes it and the filter will do it. I take it the car mostly is driven near Las Vegas. But only under ideal conditions and only if your engine does not have sludge already, etc. If you are doing a lot of short trips in Ely in the wintertime for instance, that's another matter. I don't know how much construction dust is around your area right now. Also if you are just doing short trips I would not stretch it much over a year. It depends on your driving conditions. What are they?
 
Messages
807
Location
Lansing , Kansas
I have the Mobil 1 EP 5w-30 in my 2011 chevrolet 4.3 liter and got under the truck today to look for grease zerks only to find a leak from either the oil pan seal/gasket or the rear main. Truck only has 3300 miles on it, changed the factory fill out at a little over 500 miles. Needless to say I'am disappointed.
 
Messages
7,930
Location
Hudson, NH
Originally Posted By: Rob Taggs
I have the Mobil 1 EP 5w-30 in my 2011 chevrolet 4.3 liter and got under the truck today to look for grease zerks only to find a leak from either the oil pan seal/gasket or the rear main. Truck only has 3300 miles on it, changed the factory fill out at a little over 500 miles. Needless to say I'am disappointed.
No way the oil can be responsible. Bet your filters loose. Most grease fittings went extinct years ago, doubt you have any.
 
Messages
807
Location
Lansing , Kansas
Leakyseals, No loose oil filter. Completely clean and oil free around filter area. If I could pull the transmission I'am sure I could find the source. Pan Seal/gasket or rear main seal. As for the grease zerks, hate to tell you but, there are two, one on each tie rod end. Chevrolet 1500's for 2011 have a different front end than either 2500 or 3500 series. The zerks are point straight up and not down. Somewhat hard to find if your not looking for them. And my manual specifies #2 GC-LB grease.
 
Messages
7,930
Location
Hudson, NH
OK. Sometimes removing the filter can throw oil around that leaks to other areas. Just cant see oil chewing through a gasket in 500 miles on a brand new truck. Somethings loose somewhere. I'd hate to think there's a mfg defect, but its possible.
 
Messages
15,994
Location
NE,Ohio
Time to take it to the dealer then? it shouldnt be leaking must be a factory defect. back on topic: The oil should be ok (for 1year/15k miles) but as others have said it depends on some variables.
 
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Messages
807
Location
Lansing , Kansas
Never faulted Mobil 1 EP, just said I was disappointed to find a leak. I've had this exact problem on other vehicles with varying mileage using synthetics. It is a very small but, noticable and in a small area. There is no oil loss showing on the dipstick. Been very happy with the truck so far. It has usually been a 50/50 split in the past with older vehicles. The pan gaskets leaked or it was rear main leak. Seen others with similar things like this. Maybe more research needs to go into seal compatibility and synthetics. I've just seen this far too often.
 
Messages
28,123
Location
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
Originally Posted By: Rob Taggs
It has usually been a 50/50 split in the past with older vehicles. The pan gaskets leaked or it was rear main leak. Seen others with similar things like this. Maybe more research needs to go into seal compatibility and synthetics. I've just seen this far too often.
Even if the old legend about synthetic oil causing leaks in older vehicles were true, it doesn't fit the scenario with your truck. First off, it's too new, and as someone pointed out, it's difficult to imagine any engine oil burning through seals or gaskets in 500 miles. Secondly, GM, among several other manufacturers, uses synthetic as a factory fill in many vehicles, and the dexos standard means the likelihood of a GM vehicle getting a synthetic (or synthetic blend) from the factory is very high. If synthetic is going to be trashing seals or gaskets, GM will be paying for a lot of warranty work over the next few years and we're going to see a lot of engines puking expensive synthetic. If it's leaking that new, then it's a production issue. I've seen very new vehicles, including GM trucks, leak. Take it to the dealer and have them fix it.
 
Messages
1,250
Location
Oklahoma
Keep in mind Dallas916 that Mobil recommends one year or 15,000 miles, whichever comes first. In my Grand Caravan I use Mobil EP 5W-20 and change it at either 10,000 miles or one year (usually the van goes about 8000 miles a year). In my Lexus GS400 I used EP 5W-30 last year and this year I am trying Mobil 0W-40. That vehicle gets driven 6,000 miles a year and so really any synthetic would work but because of the many short trips I'd rather use a synthetic and not a conventional.
 
Messages
10,783
Location
Jupiter, Florida
I've viewed the UOA and VOA on the M1 standard oils and the Extended Performance oils. I don't see much difference. I have to wonder what exactly is the difference between the two oils.
 
Messages
807
Location
Lansing , Kansas
Well, I got underneath the truck today for a better look and I found I was wrong. The leak is 100% coming from the drain plug on the oil pan. I torqued it on the last oil drain to GM specs, which is 18ftpds. So much for being anal about specs. Now what? Do I try a different brand of DEXOS 1 oil? Maybe a new drain plug? The seal was not the greatest on the original drain plug.
 
Messages
7,930
Location
Hudson, NH
The oil has nothing to do with it, something was loose as originally thought. The plug and washer are fine, your the first to touch them. The washer will need replacement over time, but many OCI's from now. Tighten, top up, continue. Your fine.
 
Messages
28,123
Location
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada
Originally Posted By: Rob Taggs
Now what? Do I try a different brand of DEXOS 1 oil? Maybe a new drain plug? The seal was not the greatest on the original drain plug.
If you're not happy with the drain plug seal, replace it. Aside from that, you do seem to be itching to get rid of the Exxon-Mobil product for some reason, regardless of the fact that General Motors has used Mobil 1 as a factory fill in certain vehicles for many years. If it really bothers you that much, dump it and replace it with PP or Cam2 or whatever dexos1 oil floats your boat. Personally, I'd leave it, since the oil here wasn't the cause of a problem, it was the symptom of a problem.
 
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