M1 Euro Car Formula in Snow Blower?

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Pretty sure I know the answer to this one already, but since I know nothing about Euro oil standards, I figured I would ask anyways.

I purchased an opened case of M1 0w40 ESP at a swap meet a while back to run in the Vette (Bottles were sealed). Took a closer look when I got home and one quart was M1 0w40 Euro, so I am trying to find for a good use for it.

I am assuming it will be just fine, but is there any risk in running Mobil 1 0w40 European Car Formula in my Ariens 306cc snow blower? The manual only lists 30 weights, 5w30, 10w30 and straight 30w. I have been running M1 5w30 in it since new. It takes exactly one quart to fill.

Thanks
 
Most snowblowers never get their oil changed and by the time the snowblower rusts out, the engine is lubricated by 98% gas, 1% water and 1% oil.

As long as it has fresh oil ... or any oil, it won't care.

My snowblower recommends 5w-20 oddly enough.
 
It will work perfectly. My Toro 721R with a 212cc engine actually has leftover 0w40 in it right now, worked fine last season. The only time I actually noticed a difference between oils was when a customer brought me a snowblower that had SAE 30 in it. The engine was noticeably harder to pull over when it was 20 degrees out.
 
Pretty sure I know the answer to this one already, but since I know nothing about Euro oil standards, I figured I would ask anyways.

I purchased an opened case of M1 0w40 ESP at a swap meet a while back to run in the Vette (Bottles were sealed). Took a closer look when I got home and one quart was M1 0w40 Euro, so I am trying to find for a good use for it.

I am assuming it will be just fine, but is there any risk in running Mobil 1 0w40 European Car Formula in my Ariens 306cc snow blower? The manual only lists 30 weights, 5w30, 10w30 and straight 30w. I have been running M1 5w30 in it since new. It takes exactly one quart to fill.

Thanks
I have used Mobil 1 0w-40 winter/summer for years in snowblowers, mowers, and generators its great in air-cooled engines
 
I've been using M1 European 0W-40 in my B&S powered lawn mower and my Troy Built snow blower, for a few years now. Both of them seem to run smoother than they did when I have used 5W-30. I would recommend it for a snow blower in a heart beat.
 
No issues with a 0-30w full synth. in my stationary Generac, BS powered 5600w gen. set and Tecumseh powered blower.
Been using 0 bottom numbers for years, I need dependable starting as 0F and below temps. .
My BS gen. set with 5-30w in it would come off the floor pulling on the recoil at 0 F and never spin over fast enough to start.
Thermal breakdown of oil in below freezing temps in not an issue to worry about.
 
Pretty sure I know the answer to this one already, but since I know nothing about Euro oil standards, I figured I would ask anyways.

I purchased an opened case of M1 0w40 ESP at a swap meet a while back to run in the Vette (Bottles were sealed). Took a closer look when I got home and one quart was M1 0w40 Euro, so I am trying to find for a good use for it.

I am assuming it will be just fine, but is there any risk in running Mobil 1 0w40 European Car Formula in my Ariens 306cc snow blower? The manual only lists 30 weights, 5w30, 10w30 and straight 30w. I have been running M1 5w30 in it since new. It takes exactly one quart to fill.

Thanks
I consider it the perfect oil for my snowblower, lawn tractor, push mower, 76 Olds V8 and my 2005 Silverado LS engine. Since I have to buy more than one 5qt jug to do the Silverado, I buy at least 2 when they're on sale and use it in everything except the old Briggs and Stratton 11hp that leaks 20w50 like a sieve. If I fix the leaks it will get 0w40 m1 also.
 
I've used it for years in my mower, snow ❄ blower, and LP generator.
What kind of setup do you use for the LP generator? I have an older Briggs generator and have seen the kits for converting it to LP. Would be handy since I have a 500 gallon propane tank.
 
Why would an oil with a slightly higher HT/HS be a risk? Insufficient MOFT is what kills engines.
It shouldn't be an issue here, but the correct question from the OP would be " is this oil too viscous at sub freezing temps to lube my engine during warmup"
That thumper has dippers and oil slingers with no oil pump.; the stuff has to splash a bit
It can be syrupy when pulling the cord, but not honey-like.
 
It shouldn't be an issue here, but the correct question from the OP would be " is this oil too viscous at sub freezing temps to lube my engine during warmup"
That thumper has dippers and oil slingers with no oil pump.; the stuff has to splash a bit
It can be syrupy when pulling the cord, but not honey-like.
Why would any 0w40 be too viscous when cold? It's a better choice than a conventional 5w30 for cold start.
 
Why would any 0w40 be too viscous when cold? It's a better choice than a conventional 5w30 for cold start.
A 30-grade oil is always thinner than a 40-grade unless the one with the 0W winter rating is below around -35°F. The base stock composition would be largely irrelevant until then in this example.
 
A 30-grade oil is always thinner than a 40-grade unless the one with the 0W winter rating is below around -35°F. The base stock composition would be largely irrelevant until then in this example.
Okay, I know it will depend on what oils we're comparing...but how much thicker would it be than an average 5w30 synthetic at say 0F? We get as cold as -20F but usually closer to 0 in the winter (before wind chill). I could go with a 0w30 but I feel like the 40 is the best choice since I've got 216k miles and 9500 hours on my truck and it sometimes works hard.
 
0w-40 will do you well.
I personally only run 0/5w-20 in my blower.
26" two stage craftsman briggs powerbuilt snow 8hp. countless hours, still runs like new.
I am sold on syn w-20's in winter.

-harvey
 
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