M1 EP 0w20, 12764 mi oci, 50302 mi 2013 RAV4

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Here is my most recent UOA for the 2013 RAV4. Definitely seems like the longer trips and the warmer weather are treating the oil better. Most of these miles were highway. I commute 120 miles round trip during the week and have some trips to New Jersey, Richmond, etc in there. The only strange thing is that silicon is still high. I did change the air filter at the beginning of this interval, so that could be some of it. I'm going to check the filter sealing and connections anyway. I refilled it with 3qt M1 0w40 and 2qt M1 EP 0w20 and a FU. It has definitely quieted the startup valve rattle quite a bit already, so we'll see how it wears. I'm going to do 14k miles this interval.
 
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It will be interesting to see how that blend fares with good comparative data. Too bad we ave to wait so long smile The couple dumbbell blends I've tried in the past didn't work out at all. Maybe just run a good 5w30 syn and be done with it.
 
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So.. the sticky lock pin cam gear issue has followed to the newer 2.5L? Thought that was over when they discontinued the 2.4L. If caught soon enough and you dont etch the plate in the gear, there are a few things you can do to minimize, even resolve the sticky pin.
 

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@LeakySeals - I did a fair bit of research on the sticky cam pin on the AZ engines. My understanding with the AR series is that the split second rattle is the hydraulic lifters (AZ had solid). The Fe and Al see to be tracking pretty consistent, so I'm assuming it is the lifters for the time being. This diagnosis statement I cribbed from ToyotaNation is super helpful: 1) Does your car make a valve rattle noise upon start-up? YES, but only after being parked for several hours (cold start-up) --> go to Q2 YES, always --> PROBLEM, have it checked 2) Does your car have hydraulic valve lifters? NO --> PROBLEM, have it checked YES --> go to Q3 3) Does the noise last for approx. 1 second or less? NO, it lasts several second --> PROBLEM, have it checked YES --> this is normal valve rattle with hydraulic valve lifters, nothing to worry about if it does not get worse with age
 
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Ok. I may have missed this, you say things are better. Less startup rattle. Wondering if its faster flow, more lube sticking to the engine, etc. Did you change the filer brand and oil brand/visc at the same time?
 
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With TBN of 2.3 after 12.7k miles M1, EP is clearly can do 15k miles OCI easily with this engine and 120 miles daily highway driving.
 

SF0059

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Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Ok. I may have missed this, you say things are better. Less startup rattle. Wondering if its faster flow, more lube sticking to the engine, etc. Did you change the filer brand and oil brand/visc at the same time?
It still gives the typical rattle on cold starts, but it definitely sounds a little more damped. Maybe it is in my head! I've been using Fram Ultras on it since I bought it with 19k miles on the odometer, so no change there. The difference in oils is that I blended 3 qt of M1 0w40 and 2 qt of M1 0w20 EP this time. It was really more of an experiment than anything else since I had some 0w40 laying around from the Odyssey. I'm pretty pleased with my UOA results so far and, unless I see some kind of huge difference this OCI, I'll probably go back to straight M1 0w20 EP. It seems to be doing the job!
 
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I would have changed the filter to another brand before trying to thicken the oil. Only once did I have a filter create a start rattle. I quickly changed my Ford to a MC filter and all was well. Also if your engine has start up noise, and this is normal for your engine, then don't worry about it.
 
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moly looks high for the EP which usually shows around 80 ppm. There may have been a formula change.
 
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Originally Posted By: buster
moly looks high for the EP which usually shows around 80 ppm. There may have been a formula change.
I noticed that. Makes me wonder if the oil is even M1. ,as all the common M1 oils have tri-nuclear moly in the 80 PPM range.
 

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Originally Posted By: buster
moly looks high for the EP which usually shows around 80 ppm. There may have been a formula change.
No formula change. The moly came from about 1/3 a can of LiquiMoly. It is indeed standard M1 EP.
 
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Originally Posted By: SF0059
Originally Posted By: buster
moly looks high for the EP which usually shows around 80 ppm. There may have been a formula change.
No formula change. The moly came from about 1/3 a can of LiquiMoly. It is indeed standard M1 EP.
Then don't try to out think the lube engineers at XM. The moly in M1 is different than what you added. That's my understanding. I would call the Mobil tech line and get their input. 1-800-ask-mobil.
 

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Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: SF0059
Originally Posted By: buster
moly looks high for the EP which usually shows around 80 ppm. There may have been a formula change.
No formula change. The moly came from about 1/3 a can of LiquiMoly. It is indeed standard M1 EP.
Then don't try to out think the lube engineers at XM. The moly in M1 is different than what you added. That's my understanding. I would call the Mobil tech line and get their input. 1-800-ask-mobil.
My goal wasn't quite so subversive as to out think Mobil engineers... I think you are giving me too much credit! I just had a little left over from my Audi so I put it in. I'm out of it now, so next time it will just be plain old M1.
 
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Same engine here with my Camry. Very impressive 12,764 mile OCI with M1EP on this 2.5L 2ARFE engine. Or better yet, do a 15K OCI with straight up M1 0W-40 on this engine as it is more robust than the 0W-20.
 
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